Once a bike is tuned on the dyno, is it worth the expense of the cables, and software? I am hearing once it is tuned, it is pretty much set, and there should be no more worries.

 

I would say it depends on who dynoed it. My dealer charged me 3 hours of dyno time after installing an SE255 cam. It had a ping, and after buying cables and software I compared his tune to the cannned map for my setup. It showed that he had tuned the VE tables, but the timing and AF tables were the same as the canned map. After tweaking the AF tables on my own I was able to get rid of the ping and the decel popping.

 

Can I use the pro super tuner more than one bike?

 

No, once you "mate" the VCI to one ECM, it will only work with that ECM/bike. You can use the software on any bike. But you do need one VCI (tuner) per motorcycle.

 

I have a question for you guys. I just finished rebuilding my motor (see build below). I got the SE software, read the instructions, and am trying to pick out a base map to get me through the break in period. Can I pick a map from the Touring section if I see a build closer to what I have than in the Dyna section? Really none of the maps are all that close though. None of the maps have SE-211s which are closest to the cams I used. 259's are the closest any of the maps have. Compression is also too high. I'm guessing I can fix all this with the Smart Tune though, correct me if I'm wrong. I'm currently looking at maps 176SCJ001 and 044SDF004

Build - 2010 Dyna Street Bob - TC96

Bored to 103". KB forged 6.9cc dish pistons. Andrew's TW50 cams. Heads CC'd, milled , compression releases, port clean up. Crank trued, plugged, welded. Compression 9.7:1. SE Heavy Breather Air Intake. V&H Short Shots

 

No you can't use touring model cals. They are for TBW bikes.
You can use any of the 176 cals.
You might consider finding a good tuner to tune that for you.
I wouldn't short change a build like that with a smart tune .

 

Thanks stokerjlk. I am definatley going to have a good tuner dyno it after it's broke in. Do you think I need to have someone build a custom base map for the break in, or go with one of the pre-created maps as previously discussed? I really don't want to screw up all my hard work the first time I start it.

 

Break in on the dyno is the best option. That way everything is monitored along the way. The chance of getting it right for break in is slim.
You can do the heat cycles and check for leaks , because you won't run it long enought to build enough heat to do any damage. It's when the ring seating begins that you want the Afr correct. The first 30-50 miles are the most critical.

 

I have a 2012 RG ultra. Bike runs great but hot. Had it dynoed but didn't help. Thought I would try the new software (I had the 2011 software from my other bike).
Interestingly, there are 4 maps that target my bike. I chose the one with the highest VE cels although the differences in the four were not significant, nor were they much different from the 2011 map. The timing tables and AFR tables were Identical among the four new maps.

The new maps all had the spark tables advanced 4 degrees in every cel over the equivalent maps in the 2011 verion of the software. For the first time in a smart tune run I am now getting knock retard kick in. I left in on just to check these new higher numbers. The rear cylinder is seeing much more knock than the front cylinder.

I have measured both cylinders temperature independent of the temp reading on the software. The rear cylinder gets much hotter even at idle where air flow is not an issue. Given the AFRs affect both it would seem the VEs have some kind of error built in depriving the rear cylinder of a proper fuel mixture. Thus the extra knocking and temperature. Smart tuning does not seem to get rid of this.

I clearly don't trust the Harley dealer dyno to go there again. I will continue with smart tuning until I find a good dyno person in the Cincinnati area.

 

[quote=kelsonhoff;10671140]I have a 2012 RG ultra. Bike runs great but hot. Had it dynoed but didn't help. Thought I would try the new ...

After I had mine dyno'ed I changed muffler baffle size. I started smart tuning with the dyno'ed map. I figured that was closer than any of the canned maps.