Yes your close.
If your log shows knock activity at 2500 rpm 60 kpa . Then you would start at 2250 60 kpa pulling a couple deg at a timing .

 

That is wide open throttle.
Depending on barometric pressure , you could be polling off 80/100 kpa when the throttle is wide open. In the Midwest we are usually 95/100 kpa when WOT.
At elevation you could be in the 80 kpa Area when @ WOT.

 

Hi. I installed Pro upgrade kit to my 12 CVO Road Glide and there are two maps that looks identical. Bike have power duals with hi output slip ons. The bike has no upgraded injector. Map codes are 009SBH001 and 0044SDC004. Which one should I use? And what AFR range is better for this upgrade?

 

Thought I would post my AFR table. Any thoughts?

 

either one can be tuned to the build.
the AFR in the post above is a good start. the thing is it means nothing unless the ve's were calibrated to that AFR.
just loading a map that has the afr changed dosent mean your at that AFR,until the ve's are calibrated.

 

Not sure where I got this map. I think it was from an early EFI SuperGlide before they started running them so lean. I think the 85 and 95 columns were missing so I put it in a spreadsheet and added the missing columns with formulas to interpolate the missing data.

Now here are my advance tables. I've been adding timing across the board, doing data runs, and pulling timing a a degree or two where knock is detected until it goes away. I am limiting advance to no more than 45 degrees. Others have looked at these and said I am running way too much timing but I'm not getting knock detection and temps seem to be in the normal range.

Any thoughts on this?

 

Wow !
Stage 1 bike?
that is a boat load.
Your floorboards don't vibrate your feet to sleep do they?
One thing to remember is the ECM has a spark temp correction built into it.
We don't have access to it. But it is in operation behind the scenes.
@ 280 deg head temp it can pull as much as 10 deg. On some cals.
At least 6 deg on all maps.

 

Well, the bike runs ok. I really need to get it dynoed but sometimes I look at this and think man this really huge and wonder if I shouldn't just go back to the original timing map.

So based upon head temp I could be losing as much as 6 - 10 degrees and it would never show up in the logs unless I looked for temp = > 280 and looked at actual timing in that area and compared it to what was in the table.

 

Yes that is correct. It's pretty time consuming.

On another note regarding increasing timing until knock
On a stage one bike ,your max brake tq. (MBT) could have a 6-8 deg flat line or tapper before it reaches detonation. In other words the tq wouldn't change from say 28 deg to 34 deg so you could back it down 5 deg and never lose a thing.
Keeping the motor from sensing knock will yield a better running bike than one that is set to MBT , with the chance of the ion sensing starting to pull timing here and there. IMO

 

Hang with me here- I have a 2012 RG ultra- have done about 15 smart tunes. I pulled the original map off my 2011 RG ultra (long story). I had also transferred the pipes and intake off the 2011 so the bikes were essentially identical. The 2012 bike is significantly hotter going into parade mode when idling routinely while the 2011 never did.

today we read the temps while idling with an accurate laser temp reader. As the temps climbed the rear cylinder grew to a top temp on the rear cylinder of 345 while the front reached 321. The bike had kicked into parade mode by then.

I compared the original base 2011 VE maps, with the final 2011 VE maps after 3 tuning runs, and then the final 2012 VE maps after 15 tuning runs. The final 2011 map was my starting map for the 2012 bike.

Interestingly the the VE values for the 2011 bike were generally slightly higher for the front and more significantly lower for the rear when comparing the final 2011 bike tables with the base 2011 tables.

Then when comparing the final 2012 bike tables with the final 2011 tables (the starting 2012 tables) again the front VEs were generally higher in the 1500 to 4500 rpm range, (about 5 – 7 range highe)r; and the rear VEs were lower in the same rpm range dropping around 1 to 3.

Assuming higher VEs mean a richer mixture, I found it interesting that smart tuning tended to lean out the rear cylinder, and apparently had the rear cylinder in particular, but also the front running very hot. Much hotter than the base 2011 mapped bike.

It's making me question what smart tuning is really doing. In all cases, both pre smart tuning and after, the bikes seemed to run pretty well.

My current plan is right now to re-install the base 2011 map and raise up some VEs at least idle for the rear cylinder. I can use the temperatures of the two cylinders as a guide. Given no air flow at idle there shouldnt be a big difference between the two cylinders if running comparable AFRs.

I would appreciate any thoughts you might have on this situation.