Originally Posted by 1Canuck

-009FY002.dt0 is the right file for 2010 Touring.
-The injectors (brown top) are 4.35 g/sec and the 2011 catalogue has it listed that way.
-The ECM seems to have a built in auto adjust for spark advance and that is why the data can be different from the set value
-running AFR at 14.3/1 in closed loop from stock 14.6/1, still BOLD, engine temp did come down from high of 290~ to 260~

After a nice discussion with the tech at the dealer I was told it is the stage 1 file once data runs are done and the VE updated. I went in ready to pay to get the stage 1 download and was told no need to. The spark advance table is their basic, same as the stock, he says. I still think there is a difference because the bike goes like greased lightning now.

Originally Posted by jluvs2ride

Please elaborate on this.

The Smart Tune process doesn't update the timing tables and in fact uses a milder timing curve since the AFR table is set to 14.6 across the board.

If you do data runs with out checking Smart Tune you will likely see the ignition curve to be closer to the values in the timing tables.

I have been tweaking my timing tables and I would be interested in knowing your process for this.

Originally Posted by 1Canuck

yes I did read your post above, and I missed a reply to it.
On my data runs with or without smart tune checked I see on the recorded data spark advance not at the amount in the cell but close to it. I beleive the ECM is capable of micro adjusting between map and RPM amounts not listed on the table and adjust the spark advance. for instance spark advance table (2750rpm/30map, spark 39), At 2783/RPM and 33.18/map, spark reported 38.5/front, spark 39.5/rear.
for that reason when I have time I will look closer to see if any manual entry adjustments are suggested. I can see the difference but do not yet know if it requires changing.
But I did get to ride both days this weekend.

Originally Posted by jluvs2ride

.5 degree difference moving into another range in RPM and MAP

Originally Posted by editbrain

MattieJ,

Try this.

Do some smart tunes holding your speed every 5 mph for 4-8 seconds, and shift gears as needed (use common sense here). I would do this until you get some good data up to 4th or 5th gear @ 55-60 mph.
Use this recording to update the VE Tables using the Smart Tune method.
Load this new map, and check Smart Tune. Do it again.
Update the map, and load using Smart Tune check box. Always using reset adaptive fuel.
What we want to do here is just get your cruising/accel VE section close. Not perfect, but close to where we can go to the next steps.
I use this method 3 times. Updating and loading the map after each run.

Now with the VCI connected and the bike set to where the software will see the VCI open the software, and click on the tool box. Double click the "throttle position" line, and a box will pop up. Use tape on your throttle and mark 6%, 12%, 25%, 50%, and 100% make a mark on your controls to gauges.
With the map loaded with Smart Tune checked. Make 3 or so recordings running the gears. Holding each throttle position for 4-8 seconds, but do now lug or hit the rev limiter in any gear.
After each recording I would update the map by generating new VE Tables, and load a new map with Smart Tune checked, and also reset adaptive fuel.
You can also do some WOT runs if safe for you to do so in 4th and 5th gear. But do not hammer the throttle roll on slow.

Take these recordings, and update using the smart tune procedure, and load the new map WITHOUT the Smart Tune checked, but check reset adaptive fuel.

Now you want to record with some normal riding for 20-30 minutes. Make recordings of your normal riding. Just keep these recordings, and after you have around 4-5 of the recording of various riding. Up hills, in traffic, interstate, 2 lane twisties. Take these recordings, and make a new map using by letting the software make suggestions for the VE Tables. You should be pretty darn close at this point.

Load you last "working VE Tables" into the window as a graph. You should see a pretty smooth graph. If you have some sharp peaks that is okay. Read the TTS manual on how to smooth these out a little. If you want, but you should be able to see the trend in numbers vertical and horizontal and adjust them manually if you feel comfortable to do so.
If you make any changes save as a new file, and load the new map to the bike.

Ride this for a tank of gas. See how you like it.
Watch the youtube video, and in the 2nd one. See how he blocks off a section of the VE Table and ups the values in the idle and cruise area to make the mix more rich instead of altering the CLB tables. This seems like a good idea to me. I feel that it leaves the O2 to have a full range of adjustment.

I hope this helps. I tune my bike this way, and right or wrong. It runs great. Had a couple people here who tune bikes ride it, and they say it runs good. I plan to put it on the DYNO with a sniffer to see if my method is succesfull or not, but so far, I have tan plugs, smooth idle, 40 MPG city, 44 MPG HWY, and the bike just sounds smooooooth, no pops on decel (I did not even have to mess with any of the decel enleanment tables to achieve this). The bike doesn't kick back when starting, warms quickly, and doesn't ping, pong, knock, burt, or fart.

I hope this is of some help, and makes sense. i might revise it to make sense. It is late, and I am tired. I just wanted to get something out to you ASAP... PM me with any questions. I have altered my methods by speaking to several people. At one time I loved the SEPST. Then I hated it. Then I just learned to "SAVE AS" a lot, and make new maps for just about every change. Then I could keep handle to what the software was doing, and compare to what I was seeing in my recordings.
I am a self taught, trial and error type home tuner. Take my methods with a grain of salt. It combines TTS manual, HD Manual, youtube video, several readings on EFI tuning and terminology, and conversations with actual tuners for Indy's, and also developers of tuners. I am not a professional. I just know this worked for me.

We can look for timing knock in the recordings after we get you past this hurdle.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by USMC2010

This is a great thread, probably one of the most usefull I have found in a long time. Do you disable EITMS on a properly tuned bike because it won't ever come into condition where it would turn on, or just don't care for the function?

Originally Posted by USMC2010

Still curious. I live in the desert where high heat is not common but all the dang time, would enabling the function still aid in heat dissapation?