Are you sure you can install a lambda calibration in an '09?

You would have better luck throwing darts blindfolded.

What he says.

 

Well, I'm sure I'm not killing the build as if anything it's running a bit rich and the 255 map in all likelihood is retarding the timing a bit. I had zero detonation issues. I am going to get a tune once the motor is broken in and will look at other options. I incorrectly typed the wrong info in my original post. The code number was correct but wrong application.It has been suggested to try the 2009 tourer 103"/SE204 stage II calibration map by taking it out of closed loop and adding 5 CI to the constant. The suggestion came from a tuner at HTT...

 

That map suggestion sounds better.

 

I have a 2011 Super Glide. I installed Vance and Hines 2 into 1 exhaust and SE air filter. I know I have to have it tuned,my question is; would the SE Street performace tuner ( pt.#41000008 ) do,and does it have to be tuned on the dyno? Performace isn't my main objective is not to run lean and cook my engine. Any info or opinion would be appericated.Thanks.

 

above post moved to this thread

 

My experience says the SE Street is just for downloading pre-set maps.
In order to Dyno Tune, one needs the SE Pro. I dyno tuned at my dealer and part of the cost was the SE Pro.
That is to say if you want to stick with HD SE Pro.

 

the Street Performance Tuner is for dealers to intall a EPA street legal MAP into the bike. You HAVE to go to a dealer to do it. the MAP cannot be tuned or edited in anyway. The EPA legal MAPs seam to run extremely lean in cruising ranges to meet emmisions in certain states. If your goal is to have a better running, coller running bike, and you want to use Screaming Eagle products, I would recommend the SE Pro Super tuner. It is more money than the street perf. tuner, but it is alot more powerfull of a tool.

 

when I purchased the SE super tuner last week the parts guy said they ordered 10 SE street tuners and were told it was discontinued, it may be a Canada thing, eh?

 

So, I've done 3 data mapping runs. The first went well, I changed about 15 entries in the VE tables. The second and third I thought went better, but the majority of changes it made DECREASED VE table entries. I was out on my bike today, after I loaded the new map, and noticed that the bike was HOT near the end of the 45 minute ride! Granted the last 15 minutes was in stop 'n go traffic, but as I pulled into the parking garage I had my first experience with knocking. It was not pleasant, I was actually afraid I had damaged something.

So, I think what I should do is reload the map generated by the first run, get 2 to 3 hours worth of data on that map, and then apply all of them at the same time to get a more accurate smart tune.

What do you guys think? Was the decreased VE table value desirable? With my limited knowledge I "think" that makes it more lean???

Yes, I have been making sure the Adaptive Fuel reset checkbox is checked when I upload the new map.

 

MattieJ,

Try this.

Do some smart tunes holding your speed every 5 mph for 4-8 seconds, and shift gears as needed (use common sense here). I would do this until you get some good data up to 4th or 5th gear @ 55-60 mph.
Use this recording to update the VE Tables using the Smart Tune method.
Load this new map, and check Smart Tune. Do it again.
Update the map, and load using Smart Tune check box. Always using reset adaptive fuel.
What we want to do here is just get your cruising/accel VE section close. Not perfect, but close to where we can go to the next steps.
I use this method 3 times. Updating and loading the map after each run.

Now with the VCI connected and the bike set to where the software will see the VCI open the software, and click on the tool box. Double click the "throttle position" line, and a box will pop up. Use tape on your throttle and mark 6%, 12%, 25%, 50%, and 100% make a mark on your controls to gauges.
With the map loaded with Smart Tune checked. Make 3 or so recordings running the gears. Holding each throttle position for 4-8 seconds, but do now lug or hit the rev limiter in any gear.
After each recording I would update the map by generating new VE Tables, and load a new map with Smart Tune checked, and also reset adaptive fuel.
You can also do some WOT runs if safe for you to do so in 4th and 5th gear. But do not hammer the throttle roll on slow.

Take these recordings, and update using the smart tune procedure, and load the new map WITHOUT the Smart Tune checked, but check reset adaptive fuel.

Now you want to record with some normal riding for 20-30 minutes. Make recordings of your normal riding. Just keep these recordings, and after you have around 4-5 of the recording of various riding. Up hills, in traffic, interstate, 2 lane twisties. Take these recordings, and make a new map using by letting the software make suggestions for the VE Tables. You should be pretty darn close at this point.

Load you last "working VE Tables" into the window as a graph. You should see a pretty smooth graph. If you have some sharp peaks that is okay. Read the TTS manual on how to smooth these out a little. If you want, but you should be able to see the trend in numbers vertical and horizontal and adjust them manually if you feel comfortable to do so.
If you make any changes save as a new file, and load the new map to the bike.

Ride this for a tank of gas. See how you like it.
Watch the youtube video, and in the 2nd one. See how he blocks off a section of the VE Table and ups the values in the idle and cruise area to make the mix more rich instead of altering the CLB tables. This seems like a good idea to me. I feel that it leaves the O2 to have a full range of adjustment.

I hope this helps. I tune my bike this way, and right or wrong. It runs great. Had a couple people here who tune bikes ride it, and they say it runs good. I plan to put it on the DYNO with a sniffer to see if my method is succesfull or not, but so far, I have tan plugs, smooth idle, 40 MPG city, 44 MPG HWY, and the bike just sounds smooooooth, no pops on decel (I did not even have to mess with any of the decel enleanment tables to achieve this). The bike doesn't kick back when starting, warms quickly, and doesn't ping, pong, knock, burt, or fart.

I hope this is of some help, and makes sense. i might revise it to make sense. It is late, and I am tired. I just wanted to get something out to you ASAP... PM me with any questions. I have altered my methods by speaking to several people. At one time I loved the SEPST. Then I hated it. Then I just learned to "SAVE AS" a lot, and make new maps for just about every change. Then I could keep handle to what the software was doing, and compare to what I was seeing in my recordings.
I am a self taught, trial and error type home tuner. Take my methods with a grain of salt. It combines TTS manual, HD Manual, youtube video, several readings on EFI tuning and terminology, and conversations with actual tuners for Indy's, and also developers of tuners. I am not a professional. I just know this worked for me.

We can look for timing knock in the recordings after we get you past this hurdle.

Good luck.