you shouldn't run the AFR table I provided untill you get all your Smarttuning done. When you enable Smarttune you are setting all the AFR table to 14.6 which is putting all areas of your MAP into closed loop (o2 sensors are turned on). When you do not have the enable Smarttune box xhexcked you are running off the MAP, so if areas of your VE tables are lean or rich and the same area of the AFR table is lean or rich it will result in a pporly running bike. Get all your VE tables dialed in then change your AFR tables.

 

Somewhat, there are alot of variables that effect the range of the AFR MAP that I would call "cruising". The weight of the rider, passanger etc all come into play. If you cruise at 55 MPH in 5th gear your more that likely using the 30 - 40 (MAP kpa) and between 2000 and 1500 RPM's. If you have more weight or are pulling a trailer or something, then you might be using a higher MAP kpa are but your RPM's should be the same. If you cruise at 65 MPH then the kpa would be the same but the RPM's would be higher and so on. (I hope this makes sence, kind've hard to explain) but I think you get the drift.

 

First post here. I have read this thread through front to back at least twice. Thanks to all here especially HT. I do want to reiterate something that I think most keep missing when they start this process. LEAVE THE FUEL RATIO TABLES ALONE. You have to get the VE tables right before you do anything. The base map is ok, but even stage 1 VE is a bit low.

Second thing, do not blindly apply the smarttune to your VE table, You will get bogus results. Learn to recognize them. If your rpm increases 250 you should not see a change in VE by that much, maybe 1 or 2%. I have gotten outlier results at times of as much as 5 or 6%. (and sometimes in opposite direction) Maybe that is just me, but look at it and think about it before you click "apply'.

Third. Smoothing. Learn it and think about how to apply it. You can actually do it after just a couple of runs as you will have repeating spikes (or valleys) within a certain rpm-throttle range to work with. (Edit: that graphical representation comes in very handy here) To be honest, I think the best approach is to collect results, figure percentage/range, and smooth across that. YMMV.

Fourth. NB O2 ain't that bad. Use it. I feel it is better than open loop unless you are damn sure of your VE's. But I am seriously thinking of getting a TWII WEGO. (Not that I feel you need it to tune, just because I like tweaking.)

Fifth. If it gets to the point where it is running like **** go back to base and start over. Hey, it is a learning experience.

Sixth: All the tuning in the world will not correct a mechanical/electrical engine perfomance issue.

I have been working on motors for 30 years, this is a new tool and I learned long ago to learn from those that know how to use one, but there are certain basics. Like how it feels and sounds. Just my 2 cents.

Ok, one more time. Your ARE NOT tuning a carburetor and fuel mixture. You are determining how much air is coming into your cylinder at a certain rpm/load AND THEN you can set the fuel mixture. Or better yet, since those NB O2 sensors are good to about .5 AFR, throw a bit of bias, and let it do it. They just gotta know what is what.

 

Thanks for the fast reply. One other question should I run with the afr table that was made during my first dyno or go back to the original afr table that is given with the original 009fz002 thanks

 

Yes, I get it. I need to find a LONG flat road and ride when there is no wind. ( wind warning here.)

 

It doesn't really matter what AFR table you run right now, you should be enabling Smarttune everytime untill you get the VE dialed in, untill you are done tweaking your VE tables you bike is essentially running out of tune. Let me put it this way. When you are tuning VE you are calibrating the cells to a known value. In the case of smarttune you are calibrating the cells to 14.6. When the ECM "learns" what 14.6 is, then you change your AFR tables to what you want them to be. The reason Smarttune changes to 14.6 is because that is where the o2 sensors are turned on, and Smarttune needs them on to collect data. Once the VE tables are calibrated you change the AFR tables (to what you want or the one I posted) and since the ECM has learned (calibrated) it knows what adjustments to make to reach your new AFR goals.

It's not much differn't than what we do in the dyno room, only I start by setting the AFR tables to all 13.0's. Then I manually calibrate every VE cell to 13. When I am done I change the AFR table to where I want it.

 

The red cells in the AFR table I posted should cover everyones cruising ranges. If you cruise at 100 MPH you won't be running in closed loop, because your RPM's will be higher than what I have the table set to 14.6. But I wouln't want to be running that lean there anyway. What you need to do is fugure out what RPM you are running at between 35 MPH (city) and 70 MPH (highway) you are at then turn the closed loop on in that portion of your MAP for those ranges. The load you will probably be running at will be between 30 and 60 so set all those to closed loop as well.

 

Any comments on this? this is the first I have heard about selectively adjusting the recommendations from the smarttune program for the VE tables. I have noticed while adjusting the VE tables that the software usually goes too high with it's first recommendation on a cell and then in subsequent data runs it dials the cell closer, so I usually see the cell number decrease. If you do have to be selective with the recommendations, that makes the software not that great for people that are not tuners.
Basically what I am asking is: Have people gotten good VE results just using all the recommended cell changes when using smart tune instead of selecting just the ones they think are appropriate?

 

I find it takes three Smart Tune runs to get most of the numbers so they are changing by less than 5%, they do generally tend to finally settle down.

I'm unsure why you'd want to ignore the outlying 5% results though. These are surely the important ones you want Smart Tune to be doing something about? I can see that these might seem a bit odd when they occur over small rev range but averaging over three runs should smooth this out.

I think, on balance, its perhaps best not to try to second-guess Smart Tune but follow the process. It gets there in the end OK.

 

I am curious. In the smart tune learning CD, it "recommends" turning OFF knock control during a smart tune run. Have any of you done this? If no, then why and if yes, did it make a difference?