Describe "rough". Slow speeds, like low RPMs bucking and surging?

Do you have good VE data in the lower RPM range?

 

Agreed, art and science. I do however have a saved map that was made by harley dealer ship when they dynotuned my bike. When my VE tables are close after a few more runs, I will save a new map with the AFR tables from that dealer tune and go from there

 

I'm not sure what the dealer did on the AFR MAP you have, but you can run the one I posted earlier and you will be good to go, or send me a copy of your MAP after you get your VE tables where you want them and I can do your AFR tables for you. As far as setting the AFR from one column to the next, you can go from 14.6 to 13.0. I like to do it gradual though. IE 100% and 90% is 13, then 80% can be 13.6 and 60 can be 14.0. You get the point. If you are running in between (say 70%) the ECM will average the surrounding cells for you, in this case it would target 13.8. I hope that makes sence?

 

here is the dealer tuned Afr

 

I wouldn't use that one, get your VE's dialed in and give mine a try. The dealer one you have has closed loop on way to long. I think if you try mine you will be happy. Closed loop only helps in the areas you cruise at.
Here it is again so you don't have to search for it.

 

Looks pretty close to the map I'm using. Only major difference is that I included 3000RPM in closed-loop because that's my cruising RPMs in 6th on highways.

 

For you guys with lumpy cams at idle or throttle lag. Try this...

As the bike tunes your idle areas.. the "lump" will change as it changes the VE cells in your idle range. For the guys that want to keep your lumpy idle then take the idle area out of closed loop and change your VE's back to original in these areas. The ECM will not adjust the idle area anymore and you will retain your lumpy sound at idle. Just be sure when you blip the throttle you don't have black soot exhaust, it will be too rich.

If you pull your AFR or Lambda out of closed loop for everything lower than 2000 RPM's then you can increase your drive away response or "throttle lag". Shoot for a 13.2 or .889 Lambda range in these open loop areas and change your VE cells back to original in these areas after tuning. Going to a lower AFR/Lambda could cause you to load up during hot days so be mindful of this.

It's a theory I've been working on for a while. It works but it will not work on all cams or exhaust setups... Maybe worth a quick try though, easy to change it back.

 

I just wanted to take a moment to say thank you all for all the posts all though it has taken me a week to read through them from start to finish. I have learned more here then I think I did from the information that was included with the software. I am currently attempting to tune my bike now. I do have a question though and here is a little back ground. 2011 road glide ultra 103 when purchased had v&h slip ons added and pro tuner and DYNO. I recently removed the slip ons and went with the V&H 2into1 pro pipe. Should I attempt to retune which I already have or just flash the original map from the dyno back on? or if I am going to smart tune should I flash the map that is suggested for my bike and start all over? Also when I enter into smart tune and out recording my bike seems to run like its got ***** but when I just flash the map without smart tune enabled it runs fine but has doesnt have the ***** like in smart tune is this normal? Also I uploaded the AF map that HARLEYTUNER provided when I was riding and felt that it was not pulling as hard as when smart tune was enabled. Yes sometimes I like to throttle my bike and accept the outcome! Any help would be great thanks to all

 

Thanks. I will try it when VE's dialed in.
As far as cruising...is it ok to assume that cruise can happen in almost any gear depending on the speed and rpm's ?

 

Thanks, i will look into purchasing the software and cables just to see where my AFR's are at and maybe use all the information I've gleaned from this thread and try a little fine "tuning".