1.Yes, if the pop is only happening the instant you back off the throttle, otherwise you have to use the afr or lambda table. In rare case's the ve tables. Some devices also have closed throttle spark tables that can be adjusted.
2. Usually rich, but did have one that became a flame thrower so had to go lean. That one I could not get rid of it totally.
3. Just enough. Richen it in stages, or make a big change and then work backwards. Some will quit at 12.5, others at 14.
4. No

 

Lonewolf helped me get rid of my decel poping, both after the closing of the throttle and fully closed throttle engine braking. So his advice above is great.

If I was not 3500 miles away from his shop, I'd bring him over a case of beer (or what ever his beverage is). Better yet, I'd bring my RG over and let him tune it

One thing,I was trying to make two changes at once (decel eleanment table & AFR 20 kPa collumn), but then Lonewolf advised me to make one change at a time so I knew what worked what didn't.

It did take me some time, but once I got my VEs where they didn't change from one recorded run to the next, especially in the lower/higher portions of the MAP (the best I could), I ensured the reflashed map had my correct target AFR and timing maps loaded.

Rode around and made a mental note of when the poping happened. I made an assumption my VEs were as close as a backyard tuner could get them through Smart tuning.

Then went in stages... went after my engine braking decel poping first (no movement of the throttle) and richened up the 20 kPa collum. Once I got that done, I went after pop when closing the throttle/up shifting. Richended up decel enleanment and all but cured it.

Either way, have fun and don't get frustrated. You learn alot working on your own maps and knowing what works and doesn't.

 

Don't forget that not all decel popping is down to the tune. Can be intake or exhaust leaks and it can be just poor exhaust design i.e. an exhaust designed for looks/noise over function.

 

Thanks Lonewolf. I richened up the enleanment by 0.6 and there's no popping at the instant of decel at any gear or rpm. The popping I have is mainly at around 2500 RPM from memory when decelerating for a period of time (especially in 3rd). After also seeing Grillfish's post, Looks like I need to try changing AFR in the 20kPa range...(I'm guessing)!

Looks like a fun weekend coming up if the weather holds out (a lot of rain fall in Australia this summer)!!

Thanks again.

 

Very useful additional information Grillfish. Thanks.. I was just about to spend $400 on a professional tune (non Dyno) but will have a few more tries myself now. The Smartune seems to work fine for everything other than the popping... and yes getting full throttle runs is a fun challenge ... made me realise how little of the power in the 103 I was actually using (or not using!!).

 

Thanks Foxster...good point. I have checked for leaks so should be good in that regard at least.

 

Trying to tune a 2012 FLSTN with SE air cleaner and samson true dual pipes. The closest map in the software was 357sdq001 which is a 103 with race pipes, high flow ac and heads and other upgrades. I have stock heads. Is this the right map to use? I was surprised to find there was no map for a stock 103 with just ac and race pipes...

 

Is just a 103 with air cleaner & pipes there is nothing about heads or anything else it is basically a stage 1 flash for a 103.........I don't know where you got your info from unless you read O.E in the calibration PDF.........O.E = OEM = stock = factory

357SDQ001
Application: 2012 Softail/Dyna
Configuration: 1690 SE A/C & Race Exhaust
Components:
- SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99D
- SE Big Bore Cylinders P/N 16546-99 or 16549-99
- SE Big Bore Flat Top Pistons P/N 21966-07
- Race Exhaust

 

Scotty3, thanks for the reply!

I was mistaken; its the SE Big Bore cylinders and Big Bore Flat Top Pistons I was referring to. Are those OEM for a 103 or are they optional upgrades?

This is the map I used to flash my ecm with and just wanted to be sure I did the right thing...

 

The big bore cast flat tops and cylinders are stock on the 103". I was very surprised to find out that the advertised 10:1 ratio pistons advertised in the 103" stage 2 kit I installed in my 09 Ultra were in fact the same piston that comes in the new 103" motors and the 9.6:1 is much closer to being true.