SEPro/SEStreet Tuner Information Thread
#1031
I have a few (4) questions:
1. Has anyone stopped decel popping through only decel enleament?
2. Did you get it by going rich (less fuel removed) or Lean (more fuel removed)?
3. How much did you change the values?
4. And is it best (necessary) to do a fair bit of riding (miles) between each smart tune run?
I know every bike is different, but I'm just after a guide.
I have no leaks at the headers, V&H Big Shots & High Flow A/C on a 103.
Any further help appreciated.
1. Has anyone stopped decel popping through only decel enleament?
2. Did you get it by going rich (less fuel removed) or Lean (more fuel removed)?
3. How much did you change the values?
4. And is it best (necessary) to do a fair bit of riding (miles) between each smart tune run?
I know every bike is different, but I'm just after a guide.
I have no leaks at the headers, V&H Big Shots & High Flow A/C on a 103.
Any further help appreciated.
2. Usually rich, but did have one that became a flame thrower so had to go lean. That one I could not get rid of it totally.
3. Just enough. Richen it in stages, or make a big change and then work backwards. Some will quit at 12.5, others at 14.
4. No
#1032
Lonewolf helped me get rid of my decel poping, both after the closing of the throttle and fully closed throttle engine braking. So his advice above is great.
If I was not 3500 miles away from his shop, I'd bring him over a case of beer (or what ever his beverage is). Better yet, I'd bring my RG over and let him tune it
One thing,I was trying to make two changes at once (decel eleanment table & AFR 20 kPa collumn), but then Lonewolf advised me to make one change at a time so I knew what worked what didn't.
It did take me some time, but once I got my VEs where they didn't change from one recorded run to the next, especially in the lower/higher portions of the MAP (the best I could), I ensured the reflashed map had my correct target AFR and timing maps loaded.
Rode around and made a mental note of when the poping happened. I made an assumption my VEs were as close as a backyard tuner could get them through Smart tuning.
Then went in stages... went after my engine braking decel poping first (no movement of the throttle) and richened up the 20 kPa collum. Once I got that done, I went after pop when closing the throttle/up shifting. Richended up decel enleanment and all but cured it.
Either way, have fun and don't get frustrated. You learn alot working on your own maps and knowing what works and doesn't.
If I was not 3500 miles away from his shop, I'd bring him over a case of beer (or what ever his beverage is). Better yet, I'd bring my RG over and let him tune it
One thing,I was trying to make two changes at once (decel eleanment table & AFR 20 kPa collumn), but then Lonewolf advised me to make one change at a time so I knew what worked what didn't.
It did take me some time, but once I got my VEs where they didn't change from one recorded run to the next, especially in the lower/higher portions of the MAP (the best I could), I ensured the reflashed map had my correct target AFR and timing maps loaded.
Rode around and made a mental note of when the poping happened. I made an assumption my VEs were as close as a backyard tuner could get them through Smart tuning.
Then went in stages... went after my engine braking decel poping first (no movement of the throttle) and richened up the 20 kPa collum. Once I got that done, I went after pop when closing the throttle/up shifting. Richended up decel enleanment and all but cured it.
Either way, have fun and don't get frustrated. You learn alot working on your own maps and knowing what works and doesn't.
#1033
#1034
1.Yes, if the pop is only happening the instant you back off the throttle, otherwise you have to use the afr or lambda table. In rare case's the ve tables. Some devices also have closed throttle spark tables that can be adjusted.
2. Usually rich, but did have one that became a flame thrower so had to go lean. That one I could not get rid of it totally.
3. Just enough. Richen it in stages, or make a big change and then work backwards. Some will quit at 12.5, others at 14.
4. No
2. Usually rich, but did have one that became a flame thrower so had to go lean. That one I could not get rid of it totally.
3. Just enough. Richen it in stages, or make a big change and then work backwards. Some will quit at 12.5, others at 14.
4. No
Looks like a fun weekend coming up if the weather holds out (a lot of rain fall in Australia this summer)!!
Thanks again.
Last edited by apx07; 03-15-2012 at 05:45 AM.
#1035
Lonewolf helped me get rid of my decel poping, both after the closing of the throttle and fully closed throttle engine braking. So his advice above is great.
If I was not 3500 miles away from his shop, I'd bring him over a case of beer (or what ever his beverage is). Better yet, I'd bring my RG over and let him tune it
One thing,I was trying to make two changes at once (decel eleanment table & AFR 20 kPa collumn), but then Lonewolf advised me to make one change at a time so I knew what worked what didn't.
It did take me some time, but once I got my VEs where they didn't change from one recorded run to the next, especially in the lower/higher portions of the MAP (the best I could), I ensured the reflashed map had my correct target AFR and timing maps loaded.
Rode around and made a mental note of when the poping happened. I made an assumption my VEs were as close as a backyard tuner could get them through Smart tuning.
Then went in stages... went after my engine braking decel poping first (no movement of the throttle) and richened up the 20 kPa collum. Once I got that done, I went after pop when closing the throttle/up shifting. Richended up decel enleanment and all but cured it.
Either way, have fun and don't get frustrated. You learn alot working on your own maps and knowing what works and doesn't.
If I was not 3500 miles away from his shop, I'd bring him over a case of beer (or what ever his beverage is). Better yet, I'd bring my RG over and let him tune it
One thing,I was trying to make two changes at once (decel eleanment table & AFR 20 kPa collumn), but then Lonewolf advised me to make one change at a time so I knew what worked what didn't.
It did take me some time, but once I got my VEs where they didn't change from one recorded run to the next, especially in the lower/higher portions of the MAP (the best I could), I ensured the reflashed map had my correct target AFR and timing maps loaded.
Rode around and made a mental note of when the poping happened. I made an assumption my VEs were as close as a backyard tuner could get them through Smart tuning.
Then went in stages... went after my engine braking decel poping first (no movement of the throttle) and richened up the 20 kPa collum. Once I got that done, I went after pop when closing the throttle/up shifting. Richended up decel enleanment and all but cured it.
Either way, have fun and don't get frustrated. You learn alot working on your own maps and knowing what works and doesn't.
Last edited by apx07; 03-15-2012 at 05:44 AM.
#1036
Thanks Foxster...good point. I have checked for leaks so should be good in that regard at least.
#1037
Trying to tune a 2012 FLSTN with SE air cleaner and samson true dual pipes. The closest map in the software was 357sdq001 which is a 103 with race pipes, high flow ac and heads and other upgrades. I have stock heads. Is this the right map to use? I was surprised to find there was no map for a stock 103 with just ac and race pipes...
#1038
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Trying to tune a 2012 FLSTN with SE air cleaner and samson true dual pipes. The closest map in the software was 357sdq001 which is a 103 with race pipes, high flow ac and heads and other upgrades. I have stock heads. Is this the right map to use? I was surprised to find there was no map for a stock 103 with just ac and race pipes...
357SDQ001
Application: 2012 Softail/Dyna
Configuration: 1690 SE A/C & Race Exhaust
Components:
- SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99D
- SE Big Bore Cylinders P/N 16546-99 or 16549-99
- SE Big Bore Flat Top Pistons P/N 21966-07
- Race Exhaust
#1039
Scotty3, thanks for the reply!
I was mistaken; its the SE Big Bore cylinders and Big Bore Flat Top Pistons I was referring to. Are those OEM for a 103 or are they optional upgrades?
This is the map I used to flash my ecm with and just wanted to be sure I did the right thing...
I was mistaken; its the SE Big Bore cylinders and Big Bore Flat Top Pistons I was referring to. Are those OEM for a 103 or are they optional upgrades?
This is the map I used to flash my ecm with and just wanted to be sure I did the right thing...
Is just a 103 with air cleaner & pipes there is nothing about heads or anything else it is basically a stage 1 flash for a 103.........I don't know where you got your info from unless you read O.E in the calibration PDF.........O.E = OEM = stock = factory
357SDQ001
Application: 2012 Softail/Dyna
Configuration: 1690 SE A/C & Race Exhaust
Components:
- SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99D
- SE Big Bore Cylinders P/N 16546-99 or 16549-99
- SE Big Bore Flat Top Pistons P/N 21966-07
- Race Exhaust
357SDQ001
Application: 2012 Softail/Dyna
Configuration: 1690 SE A/C & Race Exhaust
Components:
- SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99D
- SE Big Bore Cylinders P/N 16546-99 or 16549-99
- SE Big Bore Flat Top Pistons P/N 21966-07
- Race Exhaust
#1040
Scotty3, thanks for the reply!
I was mistaken; its the SE Big Bore cylinders and Big Bore Flat Top Pistons I was referring to. Are those OEM for a 103 or are they optional upgrades?
This is the map I used to flash my ecm with and just wanted to be sure I did the right thing...
I was mistaken; its the SE Big Bore cylinders and Big Bore Flat Top Pistons I was referring to. Are those OEM for a 103 or are they optional upgrades?
This is the map I used to flash my ecm with and just wanted to be sure I did the right thing...