I was able to download the manual finally so I've got some reading to do. It looks pretty simple to get the base map set up. When I get home, I can install the software on the laptop, update it, select my map, and when I pick up the bike I should be able to put a usable map on it in a few minutes by just plugging it in and downloading the new map to it. I can then do the tuning as time permits.

Anyone know any TTS tuners in the New Bern / Jacksonville, NC area?

 

OMG with all the gorgeous roads in your area! I'd ride 1000 miles to get my bike to a tuner 100 miles away. :-)


Tilley HD - Salisbury NC
Southeast Custom Cycles - Concord NC
J&D Custom Cycles - Morrisville NC


Call Doc at Doc's Performance Tuning ask if he knows someone in your area....

 

Thanks for all your help and advice gents. It makes me much more comfortable with my purchase and being able to explain it to the HD dealer. Hopefully they can at least put the base map on it for me but even if they cant do that it should be simple for me to load that up when I pick up the bike.

I'll take a look into those shops and call Doc when I get back in the states in Feb. It'll be cold but I'm sure I'll be up for riding a little bit to tune it in.

 

SC-Longhair used Hemrick Performance in Winston/Salem, NC and had good things to say about em. They are familair with using TTS. I think thay have a web site.

 

Going to put a monkey in this wrench.

1. You have a TMax, it's a good product. Why not simply load a close calibration for the TMax and let it auto tune. You are only doing simple modifications.

2. If you don't like the TMax tune after giving it a chance to adapt then you have the TTS but you can wait until you are home and have the time to learn/be directed on its proper usage.

3. If a dealer or tuner tells you "I don't like the TTS" then get the heck out of there. It's the same base device as the original SERT and if he doesn't like it then does that mean he is new to tuning? Or is he trying to sell you another device from the dealership?? Something that makes you go hummmmmm

So, leave the TMax in. Go to the TMax site and download a copy of a close calibration for your build and ride it home for now. This way you are not reliant on someone else to put your bike into shape. Later, if you like the TMax tuning... sell the TTS as new in the box.

Also, you never said what exhaust you are going to run with the build and why you are running the 254's on a 103?? This is a -1*/43* intake open/close, very close to a stock cam with a little more lift. Some say it is a redesign of the 255 and say that you need to bump up your compression for the 254's to kick but you may be using them for a warranty issue with HD since they are doing your build. It's more is a mid range cam.

Not telling you what to do, just making you think. I like the TTS very much but if you have a TMax it too is a good product and no dyno necessary with either product.

 

I'm replacing the TMAX for a few reasons. Its given me some intermittent problems that haven't been tuned out. I get a lot of pinging when going WOT. Every few hundred miles it kills my entire console, speedo, etc. I tend to overheat more often then before I installed it. And lastly, my buddy replaced his with the TTS and was very impressed with the results and got me a great deal on it so I figured why not. I eventually want to take the bike to a tuner and get it really dialed in which the TTS should allow me to do when I find the time and money for it.

Exhaust, I'm running the V&H side shots with BCT monster baffles.

Cam, I started another thread to get advice on that. I'm getting a good deal with my dealer who has been very stand up in the past. They will warranty my build with the SE cams. They originally suggested the 255 cams but just mentioned the 254e's. I know nothing about cams right now (still learning) and am trying to get some numbers if anyone is smart about these. I want good usable power down low without a serious drop off up high. I dont redline my bike and I dont ride much over the speed limit these days. I want good seat of the pants usable power around the 2500-4000 rpm range and still be able to cruise and pass easily.

I know the SE cams are not the top of the line. For the deal and service as well as piece of mind with one of the few dealerships I've found that will go out of their way to save me money, I'll take the performance drop. I want a strong, rideable and reliable build. I'm not racing or hot rodding, just like the pull of more power.

 

Sounds like you got a bad unit from them. Your WOT ping is a fuel issue that will not happen if you fatten up the AFR target in the 90-100 kPa ranges.

The TTS is a great tool. Your starting calibration will be very similar to a stock calibration for the 103. AF-176-002. Better still would be to use the AE176-002 and simply increase the cubic inches and all VE tables by 10% then resetting your CLB's to 681 across the spectrum for both cylinders.

That exhaust combo will give you a nice and loud Harley rumble. With these style of exhaust systems you will loose bottom end torque then add the 254's and you will loose a bit more. There is a way to help regain some of this lost TQ by using a combination of AFR change associated with VE and timing table adjustments to complement your build and help retain drivability.

If you still have time, ask your dealer to install a set of Cometic .030 head gaskets. They are inexpensive and help increase your compression a bit for that cam they will also assist with your chamber fuel mixture to give you a more complete burn.

Good luck with everything and have a Happy Thanksgiving.

-wiz

 

Thank you all again for the advice.

wiz, so would the 255's provide better low end power in the ranges I'm looking for? I cant find much info on how the 254e's compare to the 255's. The 255's seem to get good reviews from most people but it seems not many have used the 254e's yet.

 

The 255's are for HD Touring and the 254e (new cam for HD last year) is for a lighter HD bike such as a Softail or Dyna class. Here are the specs.

254e

Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust .535"/.536"
Duration @.053 Intake/Exhaust 224 ̊/234 ̊
Timing @.053 Lift - open/close Intake: 1 ̊ BTDC/43 ̊ ABDC
Timing @.053 Lift - open/close Exhaust: 50 ̊ BBDC/4 ̊ ATDC
TDCLift@Valve–Intake/Exhaust 0.094"/.102"


compared to the 255

Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust .550"/.550" also 556/556
Duration @.053 Intake/Exhaust 211 ̊/235 ̊
Timing @.053 Lift - open/close Intake: 6 ̊ BTDC/48 ̊ ABDC
Timing @.053 Lift - open/close Exhaust: 48 ̊ BBDC/7 ̊ ATDC
TDCLift@Valve–Intake/Exhaust 0.079"/.070" also 0.130"/.116"

You will find the 255's have a TQ dip between 2300 to 2800 and drop off at about 4500 RPM's. The 254e's were designed for a little more top end but to get the bottom end TQ numbers you will need to bump your compression a little or go to a larger cubic inch.

This is why I suggested the 0.030 gaskets. It will be an OK cam from 2300 to about 5000. It would be better with a higher compression motor but.... Soon you will be seeing E15 gas soon that will not like the higher compression bikes one bit. If you really want low end, mid range, good drivability and decent top end switch to a set of 204's if you have to stick with a HD cam. you will also find a nice idle lope to boot.


-wiz