stage one now vibration
#1
stage one now vibration
had a stage 1 done and the bike vibrates in the floor boards and highway pegs at certian rpms Would a set of xieds richen it up enough to get rid of the vibration?
To make it short will a lean running motor cause vibration?
thx
rick
2008 ultra V&H true dual headers high flow A/C modified oem muflers.
To make it short will a lean running motor cause vibration?
thx
rick
2008 ultra V&H true dual headers high flow A/C modified oem muflers.
#2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Western South Dakota
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#3
Are those true duals by chance the big shot duals?
the reason I ask is because we just had a new bike in for bad vibes; '07 RK with stage 1 a/c big shot duals and fuel pak.
The excessive vibes were due to the pipes. They are single piece pipes from the header to the tail piece. The way they are mounted is at the header, at the tranny and at the back of the bag support. This created an solid connection of the front of the engine to the rear of the frame and transferred all vibration directly to the frame.
the reason I ask is because we just had a new bike in for bad vibes; '07 RK with stage 1 a/c big shot duals and fuel pak.
The excessive vibes were due to the pipes. They are single piece pipes from the header to the tail piece. The way they are mounted is at the header, at the tranny and at the back of the bag support. This created an solid connection of the front of the engine to the rear of the frame and transferred all vibration directly to the frame.
#5
If there was a way to rubber mount the exhaust at the rear, not just the rubber grommet the bracket slides through, it would work but otherwise that single piece exhaust acts like a giant lever wedging the engine against the frame and just trashes the bike.
#6
The excessive vibes were due to the pipes. They are single piece pipes from the header to the tail piece. The way they are mounted is at the header, at the tranny and at the back of the bag support. This created an solid connection of the front of the engine to the rear of the frame and transferred all vibration directly to the frame.
Been there, done that.
#7
I have the V&H true dual header pipes with OEM mufflers that have been modified slightly to make a little bit of noise and the scremin eagle stage 1 high flow A/C with the ecm stage 1 download.
I am at the point that I am considering putting the stock A/C setup back on, however if I do that do I have to have the stage 1 download removed?
I just want the bike to feel smooth like it did before
I am at the point that I am considering putting the stock A/C setup back on, however if I do that do I have to have the stage 1 download removed?
I just want the bike to feel smooth like it did before
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#8
I have the V&H true dual header pipes with OEM mufflers that have been modified slightly to make a little bit of noise and the scremin eagle stage 1 high flow A/C with the ecm stage 1 download.
I am at the point that I am considering putting the stock A/C setup back on, however if I do that do I have to have the stage 1 download removed?
I just want the bike to feel smooth like it did before
I am at the point that I am considering putting the stock A/C setup back on, however if I do that do I have to have the stage 1 download removed?
I just want the bike to feel smooth like it did before
Doing some work for a buddy with an 08 we thought the vibration was from a bad front motor mount. Changed it... Nope. Loosened up his exhaust (duals) one day while working on the bike and no more vibration after we put them back on. It's pretty common.
As far as your tune. Please don't reverse engineer your tune. The stage 1 flash is not that much better than the stock flash, the stage II is just a little better than the stage 1. Even if you put all of your stock exhaust and AC back on there is no need to flash your bike back to stock. It would run better with any type of canned flash over stock.
I don't want to sound like a smartA$$ or a know-it-all but try warming up your bike, loosen all the bolt mounts including the exhaust stud nuts, shake it around and make sure nothing is in a bind or loose then re-torque the bolts and nuts. What do you have to loose?
-wiz
#9
Wiz,
I did that when it was cold and even changed the exhaust gaskets along with the rubber inserts under the bags where they attach to the muffler.
However, your method sounds better doing it after its hot and everything has expanded and could be in a state of binding.
Thinking about it the vibration gets a little worse after the bike has warmed up
I am going to give it a try should I also loosen the muffler clamps and if so should I replace them?
Thanks again for your help I appreciate it.
Rick
I did that when it was cold and even changed the exhaust gaskets along with the rubber inserts under the bags where they attach to the muffler.
However, your method sounds better doing it after its hot and everything has expanded and could be in a state of binding.
Thinking about it the vibration gets a little worse after the bike has warmed up
I am going to give it a try should I also loosen the muffler clamps and if so should I replace them?
Thanks again for your help I appreciate it.
Rick
#10
Now that I'm clear on what exhaust you're running I would suggest you loosen the muffler clamps (the clamps that secure the muffler to the pipe, not the mounts at the rear of the bike) and crank the engine. Rev it a couple of times after it has run a minute then let it drop back to idle, shut it down and tighten the clamps again.
Remember, the pipes get extremely hot very quickly, I wouldn't think about touching any part of the exhaust without leather gloves on between me and the metal at that time.
Remember, the pipes get extremely hot very quickly, I wouldn't think about touching any part of the exhaust without leather gloves on between me and the metal at that time.