I did several data runs using my SESTP and Smart Tune to adjust my VE tables. I did verify that selecting the button that says the upload is for a Smart Tune sets nearly all the cells in the AFR table to 14.6 so the O2 sensors can provide VE information over a broader range of cells.

Once I decided that it appeared that Smart Tune was making little or no changes to my VE tables, I went in and set the areas in my AFR tables that had normally been 14.6 (closed loop) to 13.8. I put the VCI on the bike and uploaded the modified map, this time not checking the box that this would be a Smart Tune calibration. Fired it up and went for a data run. Now previously I had noticed some small spikes in front and rear knock prevention at various points over the course of the run. This time, after fattening up to 13.8, the knock detection lines were completely flat, so I advanced the timing across the board 2 degrees, and went for another data run. Still no knock detection, so I advanced another 2 degrees. I have not however the chance to do an additional data had run w/the latest timing updates.

I plan to get to the point where I begin to see some knock and then fatten it up to 13.5, and repeat the process adjusting the timing. Once I get most of the cells to the point where it just starts to knock, I’ll back them all off three degrees.

My observations are that at 13.8 (for the areas formerly closed loop) and w/the additional 2 degrees timing the bike runs smooth and seems to have noticeably more power. I don’t however trust the seat of the pants dyno thing. I think it is too easy to think the bike runs better cause you think it should run better.

Caveats; I plan to at some point switch from the Rush mufflers to a FatCat. This will necessitate more Smart Tuning and I need to make sure that during this process I use the standard timing profile since the Smart Tune calibration sets the AFR cells to 14.6 for closed loop data recording. This lean condition combined w/the more advanced timing curve would likely be problematic.

Eventually I believe it would be necessary to get the bike on a dyno for fine tuning, but I am interested in others experiences tuning with a SESTP or TTS, and any comments on my experience as described above.

 

No comments?

 

LOL...no intelligent ones from me.....I'm still trying to absorb as much info as possible....

I would like to see your AFR table if you wouldn't mind.

Did you change the CLB at all?

 

Not sure but like to know.

 

I set the CLB back to the original settings. I'm running completely Open Loop, so AFR is dependent on what I select in the AFR table, VE tables, and the feedback from sensors other than the O2 sensors.

I figured that here is this whole area that is running lean at 14.6, try to to get my VE tables as close as possible w/Smart Tune, and then fatten it up to 13.8 and see how it runs. Got to be better than 14.6 right? So far so good. Just need some decent weather for some more rides, but it is running good now. Adjusting the timing seems to be paying off too, but I haven't been able to ride since I made the last adjustments.

I know I won't be able to get to what a pro tuner w/a dyno and exhaust analyzer could do, however the bike ran good before, it certainly runs better now.

When I get home I'll put my AFR map up here.

 

what kind of mileage are you getting with the AFR's set like that?

 

how does it run at 14.1? You can raise your CLB tables and get 14.1 and still have closed loop operation. If you intended on simply running 13.8, you could have easily bought a power commander and had it tuned at 13.8 for less money and time you have spent on the sestp.

 

I have messed with the CLB, I think I went to abut 760, and the bike ran ok but I really want to do more than just a .5 difference and I have read that pushing the O2 sensors like this can shorten their lifespan. True at this point I am running in open loop, but I can still load a Smart Tune calibration for tuning my VE tables if I need to. Understand this is somewhat of an experiment on my part. If necessary I can always back up one or more steps or go back to the original calibration. Ultimately I plan to get to about 13.5 or so, and I want to push the timing out as well.

I don't really think PCs and such are the way to go, at leat not for me. Any device that replaces or recalibrates the O2 output only operates in the closed loop areas, I can't adjust the timing as I am able to do w/the SESTP, and I wouldn't have the range of diagnostic capabilities that a real tuner has.

BTW, I've been reading the TTS manual and attempting to apply some of the information I've gleaned to using my SESTP. This is a very good document.

So far w/the combination of timing and AFR the bike runs smooth and really seems strong. I just want some good weather so I can do some more road testing. Thunderstorms are a daily event this time of the year in SC.

 

what's the advantage of advancing the spark? on several data collection runs, i get one, may two occurences of knock retard, with a value of 1 or 2...

 

Advancing the ignition timing will improve performance and milage. However too much will cause knock, so you want to find that sweet spot just before the knock begins and then back off three degrees. I had a couple of minor occurances as well. They went away when I went to 13.8 in my AFR table.