I have replaced the first regulator and now the new one is bad same readings 12.5 at idle and 10 at higher rpms,the stator put out 20 at idle 60+ at hgher rpm
whats going on is the stator bad and fring them or maybe bad luck.

 

I tested the stator at the connect on 100k scale both pins read 0 ohms with one lead connected to the pin and one on the case,does this mean its bad?it still test ok on the ac test.

 

My stator on an '01 RK failed about a year ago. At one point I checked the stator output with an a.c. voltmeter and it seemed fine. I was about to buy a new regulator but something told me to test the stator again. I hooked up my meter, set a high idle with the thumb screw and let it run while I did something else. After about 10 minutes I heard the engine rev up even higher. Later I found the stator had a burned connection on it that would make connection for a while and then quit as it got hot. Perhaps this is happening to you. There is no way the stator can damage the regulator. Maybe if it is shorted to ground but then there would be no output from it. If it opens up due to a bad connection there should be a large spark someplace that could damage a regulator I suppose. Again, there would be no output from the stator. Test it for at least 10 minutes at a high idle. After replacing the stator I installed a digital voltmeter on the bike so I could tell what was going on.

The voltage regulator can't ruin the stator as it doesn't control the output of the stator. Engine speed controls the output of the stator. The faster those magnets spin around the stator, the more output from the stator. The regulator just shorts any excess to ground. Don't spend the money on a new regulator until you are sure the stator constantly works. I am still using the same regulator a year later. As long as the engine is spinning there should be output from the stator. I hope this helps.

 

You should see no continunity (zero ohms) from either stator pin to chassis ground. You should read near 1 ohm between the two pins. Note: My stator read about 2 ohms when it was cold so this can be misleading. Some meters may not be so accurate on such a low range. Again, look for an easy 40 - 60 volts a.c. at a high idle for at least 10 minutes or so before changing the regulator. Make it work!

 

Thats what I was afraid of,so I called Harley the are going to replace the stator,I finally found info on the problem I am having when the ac volts look ok,but the stator is grounded so the amps go to ground,leaving none for the Battery,thanks for info this is one of best forums lots of storys to help the next guy and gal.

 

Whoa! You may have misread what I wrote. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough. If I understand what you wrote I think you said you measured zero Ohms from the pins to ground (engine block). That means the stator is NOT SHORTED to ground. What I was talking about is how the regulator works in normal operation. It's like this: The engine running, rotor spinning around the stator produces an a.c. output that varies with engine RPM. The regulator takes this a.c. output and changes it to d.c. voltage. It rectifies the a.c. into d.c. If the battery is fully charged and you are not using your air conditioner, boom box and moon roof the regulator shorts (shunts) all the unneeded d.c. current to ground. This is normal and doesn't hurt anything.

The MAIN point I was trying to make is to really test the stator first by seeing it put out a.c. for at least ten minutes at a high idle. Leave all the wires connected. Use a couple of straight pins to stab the stator wires and connect your meter to those pins. Let it run a while. If it works good for at least ten minutes remove your meter and put a bit of silicone sealer on the pin holes to keep oil from leaking out there.

 

0 ohms IS continuity on your digital multimeter.
If your working with a digital multimeter (which you should be) no continuity will display OL on your meter. It's just like holding the test leads apart from each other.
Your always going to read some resistance with continuity. Touch the leads together and you should read around 0.2 ohms. That's the resistance of the test leads which is normal with quality test leads.
Analog meters will give you 0 reading with no continuity.(no needle movement)
What meter are you using?

 

My o6 Ultra experianced an electical problem after getting stuck in traffic on a 100* afternoon. IT SEEMED TO GET HOTTER THAN IT SHOULD,WOULDN'T IDLE,OIL PRESSURE DROPPED OFF TO JUST A SQUEEK ABOVE 0 AND THE VOLT METER DROPPED FROM 14+ TO 12. WAS OK AFTER WE GOT BACK TO SPEED THEN 3 DAYS AND 600 MILES LATER WE STOPPED FOR BREAKFAST AND WHEN I WENT TE RESTART ,THE BAT WAS DEAD ,PUSH START AND VOLT UP TO 14+ .THEN AS THE DAY WENT ON THE VOLT METER WOULD BOUNCE ALL AROUND AND NOT CHARGE UNLESS 3K RPM.
MY 01 FRIED THE STATOR BUT IT JUST DROPPED OFF IN VOLTS TILL DEAD.
ANY IDEAS.

 

Of course you are correct. I think I confused myself, Sorry!

What I failed to understand in Hazmatcar's post is that he said he measured zero ohms from the connection pins to the engine indicating a short but then he said he measured good a.c. output from the stator??? If I were a train I think I switched track at that point. Oh well, thanks for pointing out my mistake.

 

0 OHMS ON BOTH TEST SETS IS A DEAD SHORT AT 100K SETTING
I use these meters to repair phone lines outside at work but was confused on the stator test,because the ac test was ok,even after the bike has been running
for 10 mins still the same readings needle pegs to 0 like touching the clips together soild short.



Thanks guys for all the help,I did my test with a Tempo Sidekick 7B test set from work analog,but also put a fluke meter the screen read 0 ohms when pins to case test,but the stator is putting out 20vac to 100vac depending on rpms,Harley tested also said it is bad and I am replacing,I have been told a stator can be shorted to ground and still pass the ac test sounds rare from asking and reading alot in to my problem.THANKS