Charging System Problem
#1
05-20-2005, 02:28 AM
Join Date: May 2005
Location:
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Charging System Problem
Hope you can give a little info. My 1991 FXSTS is not charging.The Batt. is new today..Harley Davidson Maint. Free. Useing my DVOM I have a fixed 12V. @ Batt. Any RPM. I don't have means to check alt. amp output,but I know I should have more that 12V. to Batt. I checked stator for grounded,it's good.Checked A.C. current at plug from engine.Looked like it was approx.17V and varing slightly. The regulator base has proper ground. I'm thinking it's the Rectifier/Regulator...Is this somthing you guys see fail? Check this..I bought this bike new,it's got approx. 10K mi. on it( I know not much ..I've got other bikes also) How could this part fail? Anyway if you guys have run into this or have a comment I'd appreciate any help.Thanks Crockettman
#2
05-20-2005, 10:59 AM
#3
05-26-2005, 03:55 AM
RE: Charging System Problem
ALL SOFTTAILS THAT HAVE WRAP AROUND OIL TANKS HAVE A SMALLER BATTERY THAN THE LARGER BIKES HAVE AND THEY STILL PUT THE SAME STATOR/REG ON BOTH. iF YOUR HAVING PROBLEMS EITHER COOKING OR GOING THOUGH BATTERIES THEN CYCLE ELECTRICS MAKES A LOW VOLTAGE STATOR AND REG FOR 88-95 SOFTAILS
#4
05-26-2005, 11:43 AM
RE: Charging System Problem
I agree it should have a ton more than 17 volts AC from the stator. It's really not unusual for that to happen in a 14 yr old bike, the stator is in an oil bath enviroment and the wiring and rubber plug sometimes dry rots and grounds out. Of course with electrical components they can be good today and bad tommorow no matter how old or new the bike is.
John TN
John TN
#5
06-01-2005, 10:35 AM
RE: Charging System Problem
Here's some trouble shooting info
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle. Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes a lot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage regulator problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage don’t increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing its job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement.
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle. Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes a lot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage regulator problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage don’t increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing its job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
