This is driving me nuts. Go for a ride, bike running fine, then just shuts off, tach goes to zero, bike coasts for maybe 5 to 10 seconds, then starts running again. This seems to happen at random. Sometimes it won't happen all day, other times it might happen 4 or 5 times in a mile. Happens the most before the bike is fully warmed up, but can happen anytime.

I am assuming, because of the abruptness of the shut off, that it is ignition related instead of fuel. I read a thread that said these types of things are usually caused by the handlebar mounted kill switch, so I bypassed it, but that didn't fix it. Then I thought maybe it's the ignition switch, and since I have two separate hot positions on it, I started using the second one instead of the first (I had always used the first one before), but nope, that didn't fix it either.

Could this be a problem with the ignition module, or the coil? I would think that the coil would be either good or no good, not sometimes good and sometimes no good, but I don't know about the ignition module.

Anybody have any ideas? It hasn't left me stranded yet, but I'm afraid it's gonna one of these times.

It's an '88 sporty 1200, with stock ignition. Any help will be much appreciated.

 

My 2000 sporty 883xlh all stock has the same condition.

It would be real nice.... if some of you all would put some effort into this and help us figure this out.
It is a real bad feeling never knowing if I will make it to work, or whereever I am going.
If you care about the brand, you'd put a few minutes into this and help us out.
We appear to not be alone. I have found plenty of others with this trouble.
But not one single stinking suggestion from the Great H and D themselves nor any of their representatives.
Kind makes me think it is time to buy a machine based on RELIABILITY.

Anyway - I went after the bank-angle sensor, that did not seem to be it.
Had one HD repair shop (non-dealer) tell me that the vacuum operated fuel petcock can often cause this.
The suggestion was that it was cheaper to try out than the ignition module, which is where I am heading.

I have carefully tested according to the Factory Service Manual all the other components (coil, plug wires, etc..).
They all tested out, but that does not mean they are not failing under load (and heat).
I really need my bike to be reliable, so I will use a Crane HI-4 ignition with new coil next.
Have not been able to find a decent way to check the ignition module, so I will try substitution.

I am not getting any engine error codes either. You would think shutting off traveling at 60+ would produce an error.

Did not know about the handle bar kill switch problem, good advice.
Can you describe where you bypassed it ? Up at the switch itself ? I'd like to try that.

 

Glad to see I'm not alone with this problem, now if only somebody has an idea for a solution. In order to bypass the kill switch I took the cover off at the handlebar and soldered a jumper wire between the two sides of the switch, but it didn't help. I don't want to start replacing expensive parts like ignition modules unless I'm almost certain that's the problem.

I know it isn't the vacuum operated fuel petcock on mine, since I don't have one! Also I would think that if it was lack of fuel, there would be at least a little sputtering involved, like when the tank is running dry, but this is a very abrupt shut off, as though you had turned the switch off. One minute you're riding down the road, running fine, then everything just dies, couple seconds later fires back up. This creates an interesting situation when it happens at low speed, as you instictively turn up the throttle as the bike slows, then when it refires, you get quite a jolt!

I bought this bike new, so I've had it for 18 years, this problem first cropped up towards the end of last year. Sure would like to get it figured out, as it is a big damper on my riding enjoyment. If I had lots of $ I would just start changing out parts till it was fixed, but unfortunately I live in the real world where money is very tight.

HELP! Somebody knows the answer, please fill us in.

 

If it only happens when it gets hot I would look at ignition module or coil. My son has a 05 1200C and has not had any problems like this--yet.

 

Also check all of the ignition system wiring, especially the wires going into the connector plugs. If one of these wires or pins is loose, it could cause that problem.

I have a buddy with a '90 sporty, we spent all day trying to figure out what was wrong, replaced the coil, replaced the ignition module, etc., and then found out it was just a loose wire connection...

 

For me the problem is more frequent when the engine is cold, once it gets good and warm, it dosen't happen as much. I just went over it looking for loose wires, everything seems tight.

Got the ohmmeter out and checked the coil. Secondary shows 12,100 ohms, the spec says between 11,250 and 13,750 so that's good, however the primary side shows 4.4 ohms, and the spec is 2.5 to 3.1. Is it possible this extra resistance is causing my trouble?

Since I'm running the original 18 year old coil, I think I'll replace it with a hi-po aftermarket unit and see if that fixes it. When I do I'll let you all know if it fixes it or not.

 

I agree that if it was fuel you'd get sputter . Mine too just goes dead, quickly.

Mine happened after riding for 20 minutes in summer warm air (not nighttime cold).

I have checked the connectors, but not the individual wires in the connectors.
I will try that.

That coil resistance is high, like you say. Can't remember from my old auto repair training
what the effect of too much resistance is.
Anyone else ?

 

My Daughters 98 1200 had the same problem runs for 20 - 30 mins anad dead. Put new coil on and no fix. Went through the fuel system, back to electrical. Bit the bullet and put a new ignition module on and sent it out for a test run,. Got a phone call in 10 mins. saying it was dead again. Let it set for a week and getting more pissed every day. Fianlly brought it back to my garage and started all over. Problem solved, they had the fule on reserve and ran out of gas testing the ignition module. The way I tested my ignition module was to let the bike idle and put a heat gun on the module, bike dies module bad.

Iron horse

 

hello all. i replied to this thread ...because my 1980 xls sporty does the same thing. not cool. seems like it has gotten worse lately. my first thought was like the original poster said ..the ignition switch. since i read this entire thread i have more to test before i start blowing $ guessing. i checked all the wire conections and grounds this morn. by the way ...it will have no spark when it quits. and it will the quit "out of the blue" hot or cold. i am not giving up ..it's man against machine. i think back to when it first started and i come up with no new changes to the bike. time to get the heat gun going ....good idea.

 

Also, check for a broken battery cable inside the cable ends at the crimps (both ends). They would kill power intermittantly, especially when cold because it's shaking more. But because they sometimes break at the crimp, they will reconnect. You need to physically inspect the cable as only one strand touching when testing with a meter will show good.