Has anyone ditched the SERT and got a PC-V? In talking to Jamie @ Fuelmoto, he's saying I should get the PC-V w/auto-tune since he's not sure what he'd be overwriting. Can I just load a canned map back on the bike, like a dealer download? Or is there a difference in the dealers download, and a canned map?

The reason I ask is:
If I have to go with the PC-V w/auto-tune, it'll end up costing me as much as getting a good Dyno tune. I'm torn; a good Dyno tune and I'm done, until I make a change then chances are I'll need another tune.

If I go with a PC-V w/Jamie, I get his expertise and future changes can be handled by him and his seemingly bottomless barrel of maps for any combo of exhaust/air, etc.

I'm not trying to question Jamie's suggestions, I just think I'm becoming a pest, sending him too many emails. Which I'm sure he gets a ton of. So I consult the thousands of happy Fuelmoto customers.

Let me know your thoughts, opinions or choices.

Thanks!

 

Why not use a TTS system... No add-on parts, Jamie sells them.... It works similar to the SEPST w/ Smart Tune...

Is your SE Tuner used (Has it been hooked up and married as of yet)?

If yes, then save the investment, and retain the SE Tuner.... FWIW, It is very simple to use and understand...

 

Hey Shovel, you were the first person I talked to about my SERT last year, when I bought it. I really am not "hating" the SERT, it's just that I think I'm just intimidated by it. With your help and a few others on here, I have loaded a map, stepped up the CLB's( 1 step below max) and tweaked the decel enleanment (to get rid of decel pop) and it seems to be fine. Still a tad of decel pop, but then I just found a crack in my BUB 7's w/crossover, right where the crossover is welded to the front header(by the right floorboard). So I'm guessing that might be adding to my decel popping, from what i've read.

I got some info from another guy, addressing the heat and how to change the AFR's to help with that. I haven't done it yet, cause frankly I'm still a little nervous about any other changes. Here is what he said:

Yes, closed loop is a way for Harley to comply with emissions standards. As I mentioned before, I took mine out of closed loop below 2000 rpm and above 70kPa. I also increased closed loop bias to 759, or 2 increments below max. You've no doubt figured out that increasing closed loop bias richens you up while in closed loop. I don't have heat issues and I still get 45 mpg.
One of the best things you could do would be to do a couple Data Mode runs. This will show you how throttle position, manifold pressure, rpm, etc relate to each other and what the values are when you're accelerating, cruising and decelerating. Once you know this stuff, you'll know what areas of your map you need to concentrate on. There's no good reason to be in closed loop except while you're cruising at steady throttle or accelerating lightly. You'll see that you stay around 2200-2500 rpm, 35-45 kPa manifold pressure and 10% or less throttle while cruising. Taking off from a stop normally will get you to 3000 rpm, 60-70 kPa and maybe 20-25% throttle.
Try taking yours out of closed loop below cruise rpm (2000) and above 60 or 70 kPa. Set the AFR to 13.5 or 14 instead of 14.6. If you take it out of closed loop in the 750-1500 rpm range, the only other thing it'll affect is warmup enrichment; you'll need to decrease it. Otherwise, taking it out of closed loop won't affect anything else except your gas mileage.

First thing I'm going to do is pop the exhaust off and have it welded, unless you think that's a bad idea? But I'd really like to just change a the AFR's a bit from where they are to lower my temps, clear up any decel pop, if any after the re-weld, and I'd be a happy camper. The only other thing I can think of that may need attention is; after my latest changes to the decel enleanment, and I'm not sure that had anything to do with it, the bike seems to start a tad harder. Sometimes it doesn't fire on the first try. Could be from sitting for long periods, or maybe plugs, etc.

Thanks for letting me rant, and I appreciate any help.

Jon

 

That is good info that you have there.... As for changing the Desired AFR, that is on you, BUT!!!!!!! When you change those AFR Settings, you need to know that the VE's for those particular areas of the map have to be Synch'ed in to get the absolute best performance and optimum operation.... IE. If you want the cell to generate an AFR of 14, you have to ensure that it is generating 14... how do you verify it, with an AFR Meter (WEGO, WideBand Commander, Sniffer on a dyno)....

And definitely get that crack welded up, or contact Bub's and see if they will replace it... Never know unless you ask...

 

So, for me, what do you suggest? I have a simple stage 1; exhaust, hi-flow a/c. Would it hurt to try dropping the AFR's (like the guy said) and putting it in open loop? I tried a data run with my laptop in the bag, but I only ran it for about 5 min and had no idea what I was looking at. I don't even know if I did it right, but I followed the manual. Do I need to do a long run?

I'll call BUB tomorrow, they were good about a cracked bracket I had a few months back.

 

Data Runs need to be 15 minutes....

Get the headpipe repaired, and when that is done, PM me, I'll throw you a bone or 2....

 

LOL, Ok Shovel. Will do. I appreciate you patience.

 

Jonny,
You know you can upgrade your Race Tuner to TTS for $100?
http://www.mastertune.net/SERTUpgrade.html

 

What does that do? Haven't heard of that upgrade. Is it more "idiot' friendly?

 

No, but if you take the time to read the directions it really helps. It will allow you to sychronize your ve tables (up to 80 map). Nothing else should be done to the map until these are right. I would also leave the bike in closed loop. The only exception may be in the higher map area's on a modified engine. Remember that 14.6 is only a switch, you adjust your desired afr with the closed loop bias tables.