Does anyone know if Dynojet has addressed the cold starting problems with the PCIIIusb on the 06s? I've read several posts where some complained that the bike had to crank over 4-6 times on a cold start before the engine would run.

 

I've got the PCIII on my '06 Ultra....I don't understand the big deal about the starting....mine does spin for an instant before starting....makes it easier on the starter IMHO....always starts perfectly

Karl

 

SB explained it to me and now I understand. Since only some bikes are experiencing this problem, I guess installing a PCIII in an 06 is crap shoot. If I do anything, I'll get the SERT.

 

My 06 Ultra has the slow starting problem. I just turn on the ignition and start it. I do not wait for the engine ready light. It always starts right up. That is the way I would probably start my bike without a PCIII. I no longer think of it as a problem. My PCIII has helped my bike run better and cooler. If you look at the pro's and con's I would get the PCIII again. I can adjust it anytime I want. I can share maps with others. I can change my pipes and retune in seconds. You can not do that with a SERT. Had mine dyno tuned in a short time for $150. Gained me 10 HP and runs cool. Try that with a SERT and HD dealer.

Everyone has there preferences. Mine is the PCIII.

I now keep my USB cable coiled up under my right cover and plugged into my PCIII. On the Ultra you must remove the right hard bag and right cover. If I leave the cable plugged in all I have to do is loosen up the side cover and uncoil the cable and use it then recoild it up. Works great. Saves me time and I do not have to remove anything.

 

06 RoadGlide V&H true duals, SE1 air cleaner, PCIII. My bike does not start as quickly as it it prior to the PCIII. IMHO however, the benefits of the mod outweigh the slow starting. Just my 2 cents.

 

When I first installed the PCIII it took about 3-4 revs to start if I waited for the fuel pump to build pressure. It started instantly if I didn't wait. I don't know why but now it only takes about 1-2 revs if I wait. I have played with different maps and added 30% to my 0% throttle to get rid of popping but that is about it. The bike runs great nonetheless. I have talked to Dynojet and was considering upgrading to the "start fuel" feature but not sure if it is worth it now. It gives you adjustability to add or subtract fuel on start up and not change your running maps. Is anyone using the "start fuel" feature and does it solve the cold start problem? I have actually heard that the problem is too much fuel (rich) on start up and that the new feature can reduce this. Has anyone used it?

 

i talked to phill at dyno jet and there is no fix yet to the starting problem and you guys that are starting your bikes before the light turns off are just beating the signal that the bike sends to the pcIII. thus the fuel doesnt have time to prime itself so the bike will not run full potential until the system primes. (there is a reason you are supposed to wait for the light to shut off). also i can almost bet it will not start on a dime everytime you try beating the light through my own expierence. for this reason and some decel popping im getting the sert installed thursday with a custom dynotune map. i will let you know the difference between my current pcIII map and the new sert map. i love the way the way my bike runs with the pcIII, but always going for the best. hope this one works

 

I might have discovered a fix to this cold cranking problem by accident. I have an 06 SG and experienced the same 5-6 cranks to fire problem after installing the PCIII. The other day I went to start it cold the way I normally do by turning on the ignition switch, waiting for the light to go out, then hitting the button. However this particular time just before I hit the button I realized the kill switch was off, so I turned it on and hit the start button. The bike started quicker than it did when it was stock.

Since then I've tried the same thing and it works every time. Do it in this order:

Kill Switch OFF
Turn on ignition switch
Wait for Light to go out
Turn Kill Switch ON and immediately hit the Start button.


If anyone else tries this let's hear the results. Maybe this procedure defeats this problem. Hope so.


Terry

 

I might have discovered a fix to this cold cranking problem by accident. I have an 06 SG and experienced the same 5-6 cranks to fire problem after installing the PCIII. The other day I went to start it cold the way I normally do by turning on the ignition switch, waiting for the light to go out, then hitting the button. However this particular time just before I hit the button I realized the kill switch was off, so I turned it on and hit the start button. The bike started quicker than it did when it was stock.

Since then I've tried the same thing and it works every time. Do it in this order:

Kill Switch OFF
Turn on ignition switch
Wait for Light to go out
Turn Kill Switch ON and immediately hit the Start button.


If anyone else tries this let's hear the results. Maybe this procedure defeats this problem. Hope so.


Terry

 

my light doesnt even turn on unless you have the kill switch on. so if i just turn the ignition switch on with the kill switch off i get no light (nothing). the fuel has to prime itself man, ive talked to phill at dynojet numerous times. his quote " we do not have a fix yet."