Layback plate and turn signal relocation kit
#1
Layback plate and turn signal relocation kit
Whoo-hoo what a pain in the butt this is! H-D part #60215-06, LAYBACK LICENSE PLATE AND SIGNAL RELOCATION KIT, for’04-later XK (except XL 1200N) and ’02-later Dyna models (except FXDWG, FXDF AND ’09 FXDB)
DON’T FOLLOW THE INCLUDED DIRECTIONS!
DON’T CUT THE PLASTIC SOCKET CONNECTORS OFF THE WIRES!
I wanted to move the rear turn signals so I could install EasyBrackets for my saddlebags; I hate the look of the saddlebag brackets attached to the shock bolt when there’s no bags on the bike.
I thought I could do this myself and I will, after a lot of trial and error and an expensive tool!
TAKING THE TURN SIGNALS APART:
This was the first challenge, get the socket out of the bullet housing so you can re-wire it to the kit. With some help from the forum, you just stick a small screwdriver into the bottom edge of the socket where the bulb twists in and pry it up and out of the housing. A bit more manhandling than I expected but the fit is tight and held in by the rubber gasket. You don’t want to harm the gasket. Putting the socket back into the housing just takes lining it up straight and pushing hard. Then I took a jeweler’s screwdriver to straighten out the gasket.
GETTING THE WIRES THROUGH THE DANG LITTLE HOLE IN THE BAR:
After wrestling with this for an hour I took the black shrink-wrap off the wires in pieces and saved it for later. Then I could feed the two wired through the bar. I then slid the pieces of shrink-wrap back on since I figure they’ll help protect the wires. Where the pieces butted together I wrapped some black electrical tape around them. So far, so good.
I mount the kit to the fender and feed the wires through the proper hole. I’ve read that on bikes earlier than ’04 you need to drill a hole in the fender to feed the wires through, my ’07 had the hole. BUT THE WIRES FROM THE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL ARE TOO SHORT! The fender hole is on the left side so the right wires have to go over to the left and then back to the right for the connector in the tail light mount. Okay, the left wires are plenty long so I’ll just trim them and butt splice the drop to the right side wires.
PUTTING THE WIRES INTO THE AMP CONNECTORS:
Here’s the big expensive problem. To crimp the wires into the AMP terminals that are supplied with the kit you need the special AMP MULTILOCK CRIMPING TOOL, H-D part #41609. It costs $214. I’m skewered, I’m at this point so I have to get the tool to attach the terminals. See, the tool curls the crimp tails into the wire and the insulation and keeps the connector nice and round and neat so it will fit properly into the plastic socket housing. My regular electrician’s crimper won’t do the trick, too big. I got one terminal on tight using small needle nose pliers but I worry about distorting the terminals to a point that they won’t fit properly in the connector.
IF I WERE TO DO IT AGAIN:
DON’T CUT THE PLASTIC SOCKET CONNECTORS OFF THE WIRES!!
You want to keep those wires connected to the plastic connector with enough wire on the end to do butt splices.
Check all your measurements before making the cuts to be sure you have enough wire to make the connections.
Cut the left signal wires about 9 inches back from the connector. This will put the butt splice under the fender. Cut 4-and-a-half inches off the wire coming from the connector, this will be used to extend the right signal wires.
Cut the right wires about 5 inches back from the plastic connector.
I used 16-14 AWG butt splices and placed them inside ¼ inch heat shrink tubing to keep the weather out.
Six butt splices but it’s cheaper than the dang tool.
Good luck,
DON’T FOLLOW THE INCLUDED DIRECTIONS!
DON’T CUT THE PLASTIC SOCKET CONNECTORS OFF THE WIRES!
I wanted to move the rear turn signals so I could install EasyBrackets for my saddlebags; I hate the look of the saddlebag brackets attached to the shock bolt when there’s no bags on the bike.
I thought I could do this myself and I will, after a lot of trial and error and an expensive tool!
TAKING THE TURN SIGNALS APART:
This was the first challenge, get the socket out of the bullet housing so you can re-wire it to the kit. With some help from the forum, you just stick a small screwdriver into the bottom edge of the socket where the bulb twists in and pry it up and out of the housing. A bit more manhandling than I expected but the fit is tight and held in by the rubber gasket. You don’t want to harm the gasket. Putting the socket back into the housing just takes lining it up straight and pushing hard. Then I took a jeweler’s screwdriver to straighten out the gasket.
GETTING THE WIRES THROUGH THE DANG LITTLE HOLE IN THE BAR:
After wrestling with this for an hour I took the black shrink-wrap off the wires in pieces and saved it for later. Then I could feed the two wired through the bar. I then slid the pieces of shrink-wrap back on since I figure they’ll help protect the wires. Where the pieces butted together I wrapped some black electrical tape around them. So far, so good.
I mount the kit to the fender and feed the wires through the proper hole. I’ve read that on bikes earlier than ’04 you need to drill a hole in the fender to feed the wires through, my ’07 had the hole. BUT THE WIRES FROM THE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL ARE TOO SHORT! The fender hole is on the left side so the right wires have to go over to the left and then back to the right for the connector in the tail light mount. Okay, the left wires are plenty long so I’ll just trim them and butt splice the drop to the right side wires.
PUTTING THE WIRES INTO THE AMP CONNECTORS:
Here’s the big expensive problem. To crimp the wires into the AMP terminals that are supplied with the kit you need the special AMP MULTILOCK CRIMPING TOOL, H-D part #41609. It costs $214. I’m skewered, I’m at this point so I have to get the tool to attach the terminals. See, the tool curls the crimp tails into the wire and the insulation and keeps the connector nice and round and neat so it will fit properly into the plastic socket housing. My regular electrician’s crimper won’t do the trick, too big. I got one terminal on tight using small needle nose pliers but I worry about distorting the terminals to a point that they won’t fit properly in the connector.
IF I WERE TO DO IT AGAIN:
DON’T CUT THE PLASTIC SOCKET CONNECTORS OFF THE WIRES!!
You want to keep those wires connected to the plastic connector with enough wire on the end to do butt splices.
Check all your measurements before making the cuts to be sure you have enough wire to make the connections.
Cut the left signal wires about 9 inches back from the connector. This will put the butt splice under the fender. Cut 4-and-a-half inches off the wire coming from the connector, this will be used to extend the right signal wires.
Cut the right wires about 5 inches back from the plastic connector.
I used 16-14 AWG butt splices and placed them inside ¼ inch heat shrink tubing to keep the weather out.
Six butt splices but it’s cheaper than the dang tool.
Good luck,
#5
#6
I got it from GreatBikeGear.com
Here's a video of the installation: http://www.greatbikegear.com/turnsig...all-video.html
Here's a video of the installation: http://www.greatbikegear.com/turnsig...all-video.html
#7
I just found this Thread.
I'm in the middle of installing this same kit, "BIG PITA". Luckily for me I had already decided to cut the wires and keep the connectors intact. I didn't know the wires for the right side will be to short to get them in to the hole in the fender...bummer.
Thank you for the wright up.
I'm in the middle of installing this same kit, "BIG PITA". Luckily for me I had already decided to cut the wires and keep the connectors intact. I didn't know the wires for the right side will be to short to get them in to the hole in the fender...bummer.
Thank you for the wright up.
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