TTS Mastertune Information
#7161
#7162
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Cam selector:Regardless of if this is a stock bike or you have aftermarket cams you should run this data recording. DO
NOT SKIP THIS STEP.
Make ready the TTS and computer to gather and record data from your bike.
Open DataMaster.
Select File> Data Recording (proper ECM such as J1850 or CAN BUS)> Cam Tune Data
Save the data file in your desktop folder. Call it Cam Tune Data
A new screen will pop up. Look for the Start and Stop button. These will start and stop your data
recording. You can use the other features in the pop-up recording screen such as looking for codes,
resetting/clearing the ALV’s (Adaptive Learned Values) without flashing your ECM or simply check to see
if the software will see your ECM. So, here we go…
Start the bike and let it come to warm idle.
Start the data recording.
Time the data recording to 3 minutes, don’t cheat and do not blip the throttle.
When you time out 3 minutes turn off the data recording first.
Turn off the bike.
Close DataMaster.
Open the data file in your desktop folder. You should be able to double click it and open the program.
Select View> Camshaft Analyzer> Opening
Read the manual how to analyze the graph. I won’t go into detail here as it is covered very well in the
manual.
Find your IVO number. It could be the first large upswing or the number just before it. This is to set your
injector to valve timing.
Open your Starting Calibration in MasterTune
Open Table Selection> ECM Tuning Constants.
Reset your IVO (Intake Valve Opening) Cam data in the Cam Selector. Leave the IVC alone for now.
Save the file as “My Calibration-001” same as before. Yes, overwrite it.
Flash the new My Calibration-001 file as above in Flash the Bike
#7163
Start the bike to see how it idles. If it is a rough idle go back to your Cam Selector and chose the IVO
setting one number lower. Save the file as My Calibration-001 and flash the bike. See how this
calibration idles and choose which IVO will idle the best. Change the IVO to the first number if the bike
idles badly, save the file again and reflash.
**Hints: Ride the bike around the block using each IVO number if you aren’t sure. See how the throttle
responds. If it is sharp and perky in the lower RPM’s then stop and go home. Don’t worry about a gassy
smell this will be fixed when tuning the bike. You can revisit the IVO after tuning but if you do then all of
your previous VTuning will be wasted as the IVO or IVC changes the VE numbers as well.
Why not work with the IVC? That takes putting your bike on a Dyno machine and running the bike on a
constant load at 3500 RPM’s. You can’t do that at home. Luckily there are only three values on the IVC.
You can start at 3 and test the bike then move it to 2 and test the bike again. I’ve rarely ever seen the
IVC set at 1 and I’ve rarely have had to reset the starting calibration. Most just leave it alone, I do.
setting one number lower. Save the file as My Calibration-001 and flash the bike. See how this
calibration idles and choose which IVO will idle the best. Change the IVO to the first number if the bike
idles badly, save the file again and reflash.
**Hints: Ride the bike around the block using each IVO number if you aren’t sure. See how the throttle
responds. If it is sharp and perky in the lower RPM’s then stop and go home. Don’t worry about a gassy
smell this will be fixed when tuning the bike. You can revisit the IVO after tuning but if you do then all of
your previous VTuning will be wasted as the IVO or IVC changes the VE numbers as well.
Why not work with the IVC? That takes putting your bike on a Dyno machine and running the bike on a
constant load at 3500 RPM’s. You can’t do that at home. Luckily there are only three values on the IVC.
You can start at 3 and test the bike then move it to 2 and test the bike again. I’ve rarely ever seen the
IVC set at 1 and I’ve rarely have had to reset the starting calibration. Most just leave it alone, I do.
The following users liked this post:
WKNDS (10-03-2021)
#7164
So Mr Wizard, i have to ask, if running the procedure to optimize the cam tooth settings works very well so much as you suggest ALWAYS doing this first, even on stock bikes,, why would the bike ever not idle or run properly that would make you want to go back and try other settings?
Just curious, as i’m trying to figure this all out. Also, is the main purpose of optimizing this setting to normalize map readings at 60 kpa and below similar to what the EGR settings do? If not, what exactly is the purpose?
Just curious, as i’m trying to figure this all out. Also, is the main purpose of optimizing this setting to normalize map readings at 60 kpa and below similar to what the EGR settings do? If not, what exactly is the purpose?
#7165
So Mr Wizard, i have to ask, if running the procedure to optimize the cam tooth settings works very well so much as you suggest ALWAYS doing this first, even on stock bikes,, why would the bike ever not idle or run properly that would make you want to go back and try other settings?
Just curious, as i’m trying to figure this all out. Also, is the main purpose of optimizing this setting to normalize map readings at 60 kpa and below similar to what the EGR settings do? If not, what exactly is the purpose?
Just curious, as i’m trying to figure this all out. Also, is the main purpose of optimizing this setting to normalize map readings at 60 kpa and below similar to what the EGR settings do? If not, what exactly is the purpose?
I don't want you to believe anything I write about, challenge everything and see for yourself.
-W
#7166
So Mr Wizard, i have to ask, if running the procedure to optimize the cam tooth settings works very well so much as you suggest ALWAYS doing this first, even on stock bikes,, why would the bike ever not idle or run properly that would make you want to go back and try other settings?
Just curious, as i’m trying to figure this all out. Also, is the main purpose of optimizing this setting to normalize map readings at 60 kpa and below similar to what the EGR settings do? If not, what exactly is the purpose?
Just curious, as i’m trying to figure this all out. Also, is the main purpose of optimizing this setting to normalize map readings at 60 kpa and below similar to what the EGR settings do? If not, what exactly is the purpose?
I almost always record data when I ride my bike. I see EGR and timing changes seasonally. I do my best to try not to overthink the process but the smoothness of my tune speaks volumes. Just for grins I put my ECM back to OEM to see the difference. When you get to that point try that. I feel confident you will be amazed.
-W
#7167
Canned Map Support
Hey guys, so I'm having WM8 22-XE cams installed on my 21 Road Glide at shop A. Shop B is where I'll be getting the TTS module and a dyno tune. Is there a canned map that'll get me close enough to be able to ride my bike approximately 50 miles to the dyno tuner? Trying to avoid having to tow if possible. Thanks for support!
Last edited by Tony808R1; 11-01-2021 at 09:54 PM.
#7168
There are a couple of 21 oil cooled 107 base maps, that use the TTS175 cam/Fullsac headpipe & baffles, so the VE will be different.
2021 RG- 107 with RDRS(10000305A.MT9), or without RDRS (10000578A) .
I wouldn't want to ride 50 miles on an untuned map. If you choose to do so, and something goes wrong, who you gonna call? The cam installer? The tuner?
2021 RG- 107 with RDRS(10000305A.MT9), or without RDRS (10000578A) .
I wouldn't want to ride 50 miles on an untuned map. If you choose to do so, and something goes wrong, who you gonna call? The cam installer? The tuner?
#7169
Hey guys, so I'm having WM8 22-XE cams installed on my 21 Road Glide at shop A. Shop B is where I'll be getting the TTS module and a dyno tune. Is there a canned map that'll get me close enough to be able to ride my bike approximately 50 miles to the dyno tuner? Trying to avoid having to tow if possible. Thanks for support!
I’d get the interface in hand, apply the starting map once the cam has been installed, perform the cam estimator procedure and a couple of tuning sessions, and then take it to the shop for a dyno. That’s precisely what I plan to do when I install my TTS-100, but my tuner is about 400 miles away.
#7170
There are a couple of 21 oil cooled 107 base maps, that use the TTS175 cam/Fullsac headpipe & baffles, so the VE will be different.
2021 RG- 107 with RDRS(10000305A.MT9), or without RDRS (10000578A) .
I wouldn't want to ride 50 miles on an untuned map. If you choose to do so, and something goes wrong, who you gonna call? The cam installer? The tuner?
2021 RG- 107 with RDRS(10000305A.MT9), or without RDRS (10000578A) .
I wouldn't want to ride 50 miles on an untuned map. If you choose to do so, and something goes wrong, who you gonna call? The cam installer? The tuner?
Would I be able to use a custom tts tune from someone who has the same cam and a similar exhaust and ac setup?