TTS Mastertune Information
#6791
I can confirm that the ratio set under constants will change the speedo reading
I had to change mine when i went to the 32 tooth comp
But then again I had to change it for the Cruise and 6th gear light to work. and still made the change for speedo vs GPS in the window wiz is referring to
I had to change mine when i went to the 32 tooth comp
But then again I had to change it for the Cruise and 6th gear light to work. and still made the change for speedo vs GPS in the window wiz is referring to
Hint: A little short cut... when using the ratio to bring back cruise and the 6th gear light all you need is 6th gear pulls with the rear tire jacked up in the air at 35 MPH. If you don't have the 6th gear light you don't have the correct ratio numbers.
#6792
Yes, the speedo adjustment option. When used on my sickle rather than the ratio adjustment, the 6 gear light wouldnt illuminate unless rolling the throttle back, not a biggy but an oddity. Changed the ratio to actual ratio # (again with the 49 tooth) and 6 gear light anomaly dissapeared. WTF.
#6793
Yes, the speedo adjustment option. When used on my sickle rather than the ratio adjustment, the 6 gear light wouldnt illuminate unless rolling the throttle back, not a biggy but an oddity. Changed the ratio to actual ratio # (again with the 49 tooth) and 6 gear light anomaly dissapeared. WTF.
That's exactly how it works. Ratio to get light then speedo adjustment to bring speedo and GPS together.
Ratio has something do to with the tranny sensor recognizing 5th gear speed. Sorry I don't remember the exact process.
#6794
#6795
The following users liked this post:
WKNDS (05-14-2017)
#6797
Just a little follow up. While going thru my tune data files of my bike, I had been seeing a rougher idle than I would like and the TPS line was not smooth at all either at idle.
So I changed the TPS sensor on a hunch. It had a 110000 miles on it. Made a nice difference. Idle doesn't jump around as much and the TPS line is rock solid. Bike seems to take off from
a stop better to boot. Also, I noticed that graphing of the IAC Warm-up is dead on were before it was kinda spiky. I attached a before and after jpeg. the bottom two graph lines are the idle and TPS.
So I would recommend changing the TPS sensor out if you have any serious miles on it. In addition to the miles, the bike has seen al ot of city stop and go traffic which I would think wears em out
quicker too.
Now I am considering the other sensors.
So I changed the TPS sensor on a hunch. It had a 110000 miles on it. Made a nice difference. Idle doesn't jump around as much and the TPS line is rock solid. Bike seems to take off from
a stop better to boot. Also, I noticed that graphing of the IAC Warm-up is dead on were before it was kinda spiky. I attached a before and after jpeg. the bottom two graph lines are the idle and TPS.
So I would recommend changing the TPS sensor out if you have any serious miles on it. In addition to the miles, the bike has seen al ot of city stop and go traffic which I would think wears em out
quicker too.
Now I am considering the other sensors.
Last edited by Tsani; 05-17-2017 at 07:35 PM.
#6798
Just a little follow up. While going thru my tune data files of my bike, I had been seeing a rougher idle than I would like and the TPS line was not smooth at all either at idle.
So I changed the TPS sensor on a hunch. It had a 110000 miles on it. Made a nice difference. Idle does jump around as much and the TPS line is rock solid. Bike seems to take off from
a stop better to boot. Also, I noticed that graphing of the IAC Warm-up is dead on were before it was kinda spiky. I attached a before and after jpeg. the bottom two graph lines are the idle and TPS.
So I would recommend changing the TPS sensor out if you have any serious miles on it. In addition to the miles, the bike has seen al ot of city stop and go traffic which I would think wears em out
quicker too.
Now I am considering the other sensors.
So I changed the TPS sensor on a hunch. It had a 110000 miles on it. Made a nice difference. Idle does jump around as much and the TPS line is rock solid. Bike seems to take off from
a stop better to boot. Also, I noticed that graphing of the IAC Warm-up is dead on were before it was kinda spiky. I attached a before and after jpeg. the bottom two graph lines are the idle and TPS.
So I would recommend changing the TPS sensor out if you have any serious miles on it. In addition to the miles, the bike has seen al ot of city stop and go traffic which I would think wears em out
quicker too.
Now I am considering the other sensors.
#6799
Gentlemen,
I'm a nube builder and TTS tuner. Forgive me, because I'm sure this has been answered but I can't find it.
I loaded DAG009-10-A0 and changed the displacement to 106 and changed the cam lift, intake opening and closing values to those on the cam spec sheet. I ran the Cam tuner and it indicates value of 3. Is the 3 supposed to be an adjustment to the original cam numbers or is that what I enter in the estimator? My numbers on the spec sheet are 22 Intake and 48 EX.
I'm a nube builder and TTS tuner. Forgive me, because I'm sure this has been answered but I can't find it.
I loaded DAG009-10-A0 and changed the displacement to 106 and changed the cam lift, intake opening and closing values to those on the cam spec sheet. I ran the Cam tuner and it indicates value of 3. Is the 3 supposed to be an adjustment to the original cam numbers or is that what I enter in the estimator? My numbers on the spec sheet are 22 Intake and 48 EX.
#6800