have you verified no exhaust or intake leaks?

 

Honestly no.

However, it idled fine after the air cleaner install with the stock TTS tune. The idle issues came when I installed the Kuryakyn tune. However it runs much better in every other area except idle.....

Maybe I can look at the stock TTS tune and duplicate what it had/did?

 

What cam are you using?

 

Its the stock cam in a 96, AFAIK.

I have IVO set at 5 according to cam monitoring. I even set it to 4 and tried that before V-tuning and idle was not any better.

The Kury tune is for straight shots and I have the stock pipes without baffles so some of my issues might be with that? This was the closest map to what I have. I thought V-tuning would take care of it but so far no...

 

Try to increase or decrease your AE tables.

Work on the best throttle blip. Snap the throttle hard from idle. Record your data until you get something like this


This is a good throttle blip






This is a bad throttle blip

 

OK, I'll try that.

What increment should I start with? +/- 20%? more? less?

How do I setup to monitor the throttle blip? I know I can monitor real time which is probably best but idk what settings on flight recorder etc to monitor.

Is that the AF ratio of each cylinder pictured?

If so, I remember my AF plots being waaaay more squiggly. Not smooth lines like yours.

 

I believe you are trying to over think this and make it hard.

This is NOT a flight recorder data. Set up your computer at the bike and record a generic data after the bike is warmed up. Start at idle, grab a handful of throttle and blip the hell out of it. Let the motor come back to idle then blip it again. Do this three times then stop the recording, shut down the bike, read the data, make adjustments, flash these adjustments, rinse and repeat.

You want to look at TPS and MAP. Get the best sharp pyramid as you can. Takes several tries but the difference is amazing when riding.

Here are the tricks but they really aren't tricks. Should be easy to understand how to get this info. Generic Data Recordings are your friend. Use a GDR when in doubt and read it. Do GDR's when everything is fine so you can have a baseline to compare a bad tune or mechanical issue.

Move in 10% increments at a time. Record data and compare.

My graph is zoomed. You can zoom into your graph by using the mouse. Right click and hold, make a box and it will zoom into that box. When done... hit restore graph.

The squiggly lines are too hard to follow, zoom is your friend.

AFR's? This is a lambda bike and it shows only one desired setting. That would be for both cylinders. You can't have a different desired lambda for each cylinder unless you have more than one throttle body and intake manifold.

 

Ok so I did generic data monitor this am and here is a shot of my blips. They look sharp to me so I didn't change any of the VE tables.




I did notice that the Kury tune had a wildly different idle step chart so I changed it back to the stock TTS Idle chart. The Kury tune idled down much faster than the stock TTS tune and I just don't think the bike was warmed up enough.

I'll report back how this works for the idle issue but I learned a lot on this exercise.

Kury Idle:
1288
1280
1096
1040
1032
1024
1016
1016
1016
1016
1000
968

TTS Idle:
1360
1304
1200
1104
1000
1000
960
960
960
960
960
960

 

i have been working on tuning my bike and believe the engine temp is a bit high, dont know if it is caused by afr or timing or a combination of both. It became a concern when i noticed that the very front of the rear muffler is bluing. I have an 06 EG with SEAC, SE203 cams, full headers and free flowing mufflers. Today for example- 55 degrees outside. Went for an easy ride on some back roads and some highway. Cruising at 50-60mph the bike is running between 198-205. When slowing to 30-35mph the temps begin to climb a bit 210-215. If i am moving slower they climb a bit to 220-225. by itself that doesnt sound too bad to me ( i have never monitored engine temps so closely) But if it idles in place for less than 2 minutes- temps are 245-261, this coupled with the bluing rear cylinder muffler has me concerned. I am running the cpz176 tune. I do not have any knock retard events but may have some lower speed light load surging 2k rpm at 35-40 mph. Any ideas?

 

Bluing a muffler is usually a lean condition. Increasing heat is the same indicator. It could be in the tune (AFR) or it could be mechanical since you have a surge. A surge normally indicates a vacuum leak or dirty filter or injector. Doubtful it is in your timing.