Are you manually adjusting the ve's in the 15 kpa column?

 

Kiwi... what UN was saying is...

Trash everything you have started with and start from a fresh calibration. The one you just posted is all wigged out and can only mean one thing. A wigged out bike.

Open a new and fresh DTA044-03
Change it to a Vtune calibration and start all over again.

There is nothing good about any of the calibrations you have previously posted. Get rid of them.

 

LW... look at the edits to the timing tables then check all the other tables. Don't know who did all this but... no need to share my thoughts.

 

Sorry it took so long to respond, but weather has not cooperated, and other things like girlfriends and funerals.....

I changed some settings back to original, like throttle sensitivity, adaptive spark, set max rpm to 6000. Ran a while today in 60 degree weather, rode a favorite stretch of hills and turns. Managed a couple of WOT, and a stab at 1/4 mile time (14.1 @ 96mph).

I only see on place where knock retard kicked in. Was taking photos today also, and managed to hit the kill switch once and the throttle was still open a bit, so you see me trying to reset it in r5 and r6. r7 has the WOT, r1 is a cold bike, r3 is the run up the "mountain."

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gbcwmprcw8u6f25/OZANNuxw5p

 

OK UN and Wiz
I will have the bike back together today and I have set up a VTune map from DTA044-03 and will post up a file later sorry about the confusion I appreciate your help guys.

 

no worries man.. just trying to help with accurate info.

 

Since you asked the question I gave it a little more thought - with the previous exhaust which had no O2 sensors and no Piggy-Back tuner, I felt that it ran a little too hot particularly in traffic.

Now that I have my new exhaust, O2 sensors, and TTS tune/calibration this alone may end up resolving it.

However, if I did in the end decide to make it run a little richer, what's the best way to do this?

 

Hi UN & WIZ
Here is todays VTune Map and 3 Data runs what do you think
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bca8dhkcpt.../003-3-r04.dm3
https://www.dropbox.com/s/07y3s7jg90lbeps/003-2-r03.dm3
running good but has some dead spots down low
Doc

 

If you haven't already, make sure the O2 bungs are in their proper place and depth (there are some bungs that are too tall and won't allow the sensors to work correctly).

And make sure the exhaust & intake system has no leaks...those can play funny little games with the tune.

Once the exhaust system has been addressed, it's time to play with the TTS.

As their instructions suggest, make/save a copy of the stock map that's in the bike. Then select and download the most appropriate TTS map for your bike. Then, if available, use the cam tool to adjust cam setting as instructed if needed.

From there, give the bike a ride and just see how it behaves.

You'll then want to begin the vtune process to get the VE's set correctly. As you analyze the vtune data, note the temperature readings. That should begin to give you an idea as to what the temps are doing and where in the map that adjustments might be made.

Now to your question...fuel and timing play a role in heat output. But typically, one makes adjustments not across the board but only in areas that really need the adjustments. And in making those adjustments, one begins to affect other parts of the map as most all changes influence something else.

Let me know if that makes sense...I'd rather you follow a logical series of steps now that you have a very capable tool (the TTS).

Good luck!

 

kiwiharleyrider54. Can you post up the last MT8 file for us sir.

Also, were you able to pull and measure the o2 sensors for proper depth?