Win7 64 bit, and i wish it was XP a lot easier locating organizing my TTS files on this machine...) 07 Streetglide, 96 cubes, stock head pipe, SE Slipons, stage 1 breather, 30t tranny and 68t rear pulley..man thats the gearing they should have put in at the factor..scares the crotch rockets outta the hole hehehe..AND andrews 48h..I grew up with my muscle car for 33 years sooo this is a little diff then rippin a Holley apart on the kitchen table..I bench tested o2 sensor but made a quick trip to Harkey put a new rear in, rear always seemed slow to respond

 

I remember the last few 660 center pumps I rebuilt. Use to do the 780's for my buds all the time with auto tranny's. They had no clue about the 50cc front pump conversion.

OK... got your bike info. Tell me, are you using the blue or black TTS. Are you using the TTS cable kit or other? May sound like silly questions but there is a method to my madness.

 

Ahh yes 50cc REO pump fr n rear..and drilled the shooters got rid of the 20ft stumble with tight converter heavy cam haha. Blue TTS, cables from harley dealer..It didnt do it with CAA176 or CPZ176..only with recent install of EPQ176 or EMV176 map..???? gotta do a bike run today so i popped CPZ176 back in her with spark tables from EPQ i,ll see how it runs in the morning, oil turned dark fairly quick playing with Vtunes so i,ll change that out first.

 

EPQ and the EMV are too big for your motor. Stick with the CPZ, let VTune do it's thing, then work with the timing. It won't be but a few more months until the Timing Assist update is ready.

 

Well 2 full days of riding ...With temp CPZ map..interesting though CAA,Cpz seem to head for the same 33d landscape after vtuning 5.6 times..witch seems to be very close in texture to EPQ (which is way to high in VE,s. However the timing maps from EPQ copied into my partially complete CPZ seemed to do fine..i,ll have to do more Vtunes with that combo this week..Frontwheel can lift into 2nd if i,m full on, wiping the smile of my friends 103 build...but throttle seems Thin !! if u understand what i mean EPQ seemed to have stronger pull Fatter but not rev as quick and snappy. Interesting. i,ll take ur advice for sure wizard and carry on with CPZ..be nice to get half way between both maps. CPZ after 5 Vtunes i lost my cold start idle up and spit through breather till fully warm, now with EPQ spark advance tables added i have regained partially my cold start.??? HHHmmm gotta think about this

 

Idle is searching and of throttle not exactly smooth till about 1300/1400 rpm
powerband a little high right now full on strong about 3000 i was kinda hoping around 2500 with 48h, but i have a long way to go yet

 

Could be looking at several items to clean these up.

Intake leak
Cam Selector settings
Idle Spark Control Gain
Idle Spark Control Max
Throttle Blade Control
EGR

The TTS3 software will have a timing assist mode. I wouldn't worry too much about changing or mixing timing tables for now. Do a generic 02 data run and watch for knock retard.

 

OK thanx..gonna make a little checklist per your recomendations, clean up a whole bunch of run files n experiments then i go for some Vtune and o2 runs shortly see where i,m at

 

Bearshit, doing VTune runs are NOT making your timing move at all. And, if the v-tunes get worse and worse as you go along? Look at your pipe to ensure you have the O2 sensors wired correctly.

The black connector goes to rear cylinder and the gray connector goes to the front cylinder.

Black is Back!

I will post up one of many tuning tips for your idle in a moment

OK, here is a pix of a front spark table. Look at the circled areas from 750rpm to 1500 rpm. Notice how all of this small group of cells is the same? There is a reason for that. WHen a bike is warming up or simply at idle, id the timing right here is not matched, there CAN be a possibility of unstable idle forcing the bike into different timing which, then by itself, will make the idle surge and die, due to the timing increasing the revs.



On this build, I used 24* of timing. Other builds can be different, but not by much. I recommend this area be set anywhere from 18* to 24*

Now, here is a pix of Closed Throttle Spark. This table serves different functions, depending on where in the temp and RPM range we use it at. Look at this table's circled zone... See how it is 'matched' to the same 24* of advance as the main spark is? This is what we sometimes do to get a nice idle... or at least the start of searching for a good idle.



You will wiant to make the closed spark, match the main tables here. So if you used... say 20* on the main table, you will want 20* in the circled area of this table, too. This greatly lessens an engine 'hunting' at idle.

 

Hi. Newbie here. My names Nick. I have a question about using the TTS Mastertune. I recently got the Fullsac X-pipe for my 2010 Street Glide. After putting it on, I did the whole TTS download and fuel map. I think while installing the fuel map, my USB connection was bad and I'm thinking something in the fuel map didnt download right, or something got corrupted. My question is: Can I just re-install the fuel map right on top of the one that I just installed, making sure my connections are all good. It seemed to be running good after my initial install, but after a few longer rides, I noticed some popping when I let off the throttle. I did some generic o2 data recordings and got a code for my rear o2 sensor being high...However, I don't think the o2 sensors are bad, I think its something with the fuel map...do I have to uninstall the whole map, and start from scratch? Or can i just install again? I have never done this before. I'm new to TTS, and not very computer saavy either. When I bought the tuner, Steve at Fullsac made it sound pretty simple, so I gave it a go. Now here I sit.