TTS Mastertune Information
#3661
You can use the one from above and this will get you going just fine.
Question... why more air in and no air out? Why use a HB with stock mufflers? Seems to me you are stuffing a potato up your exhaust and stifling your air intake. What goes in can't come out.
#3663
#3664
Hey CR
Yup.... it's always there on the box account. I have hundreds of files, some of them are way back to the SERT and PC II. I never toss out anything and they are backed up with a triple redundancy offsite. Onsite servers and backup drives can be stolen, burned up or damaged.
burgie... I totally understand. You can still start with that calibration and just VTune.
Yup.... it's always there on the box account. I have hundreds of files, some of them are way back to the SERT and PC II. I never toss out anything and they are backed up with a triple redundancy offsite. Onsite servers and backup drives can be stolen, burned up or damaged.
burgie... I totally understand. You can still start with that calibration and just VTune.
#3665
I can testify about the Wiz's knowledge! He did a great tune on my limited this weekend.
Burgie, if you aren't interested in loud but still want a bit of a rumble, you might look into the SuperTrapps.
Wiz...you didn't think mine were to loud did you?
Burgie, if you aren't interested in loud but still want a bit of a rumble, you might look into the SuperTrapps.
Wiz...you didn't think mine were to loud did you?
Hey CR
Yup.... it's always there on the box account. I have hundreds of files, some of them are way back to the SERT and PC II. I never toss out anything and they are backed up with a triple redundancy offsite. Onsite servers and backup drives can be stolen, burned up or damaged.
burgie... I totally understand. You can still start with that calibration and just VTune.
Yup.... it's always there on the box account. I have hundreds of files, some of them are way back to the SERT and PC II. I never toss out anything and they are backed up with a triple redundancy offsite. Onsite servers and backup drives can be stolen, burned up or damaged.
burgie... I totally understand. You can still start with that calibration and just VTune.
#3667
#3669
#3670
Some say the Devil is in the details. When it comes to calibrations this is true IF you use a calibration that is too big for your mod combinations.
Don't worry about the exhaust, worry about the motor mods. Choose a calibration that is smaller than what you have is better than one that is made for a larger modified motor IMO.
Building a motor means you must work more closely with your calibration. IF your VE tables go to 125 then increase your CI to reduce the VE #'s. Then you must start tuning all over again. You can increase your CI to 110 to reduce your overall VE's when you first start. This will not upset the tune values but may save you some time.
Change the injector numbers to what you have. Probably 4.35. Remember this calibration started for the 06 bikes which used a smaller injector. TTS assumes you read the manual and make changes before you start to tune.
When tuning a 2-1 pipe you will see very low numbers in the lower RPM's. This is due to the exhaust restriction (or lack of). The less restriction the less free oxygen your sensors will trace. It also depends on the sensor location and depth of the sensors in the pipe. Are the sensors in or near a turn in the pipe. All these variables come into play but on a 2-1 they will be vivid below 2800 RPM.
When you start to VTune you will see the VE 3-D graph gives you a dip then a huge upswing then dips again. This upswing will start at 2800 and carry on to about 3500 then drop again. THe upswing is where the pipe and cam will work the best and the downswing is where HP will come into play instead of TQ in your higher RPM's.
You can work with your EGR settings and CI to smooth some of this upswing out but you won't be able to smooth it all out so your 3-D looks like a summer pond. This just doesn't happen with a 2-1 build.
I know you don't quiet understand right now but as you get into this TTS and start to understand how it works, reacts and tunes you will see for the most part is it all logical. You must think like a computer to understand one.
Reading across different forums or white paper articles where different people have exchanged information can be very confusing. Not everyone agrees. It can get political and downright nasty at times. If in doubt go to the man. Ask the product owner or tech support. In this case it would be Steve Cole. Steve is busy building 66 new calibrations as we speak but if you send him an email or call the office he will talk to you. All business owners enjoy talking about the strengths of their produce. He is no different and may keep you on the phone for an hour and blow all this stuff right over your head. It's actually fun !
Here is a short tune I did for another member here. SG/103/555 cams/ 2-1 pipe. It's called a short tune because the higher RPM's and kPa were not tuned properly due to time. If you click on a VE table then 3-D Graph you will see a little of what I'm talking about.
Caution... this calibration is not intended to be used for any other bike. All bikes breath differently. The settings in this calibration may damage your engine components. This is NOT a clone calibration for your use. YOU use it, YOU blow it, it's on YOU.
https://www.box.com/s/so7fhgfqk2dn5kbfmlcj
Don't worry about the exhaust, worry about the motor mods. Choose a calibration that is smaller than what you have is better than one that is made for a larger modified motor IMO.
Building a motor means you must work more closely with your calibration. IF your VE tables go to 125 then increase your CI to reduce the VE #'s. Then you must start tuning all over again. You can increase your CI to 110 to reduce your overall VE's when you first start. This will not upset the tune values but may save you some time.
Change the injector numbers to what you have. Probably 4.35. Remember this calibration started for the 06 bikes which used a smaller injector. TTS assumes you read the manual and make changes before you start to tune.
When tuning a 2-1 pipe you will see very low numbers in the lower RPM's. This is due to the exhaust restriction (or lack of). The less restriction the less free oxygen your sensors will trace. It also depends on the sensor location and depth of the sensors in the pipe. Are the sensors in or near a turn in the pipe. All these variables come into play but on a 2-1 they will be vivid below 2800 RPM.
When you start to VTune you will see the VE 3-D graph gives you a dip then a huge upswing then dips again. This upswing will start at 2800 and carry on to about 3500 then drop again. THe upswing is where the pipe and cam will work the best and the downswing is where HP will come into play instead of TQ in your higher RPM's.
You can work with your EGR settings and CI to smooth some of this upswing out but you won't be able to smooth it all out so your 3-D looks like a summer pond. This just doesn't happen with a 2-1 build.
I know you don't quiet understand right now but as you get into this TTS and start to understand how it works, reacts and tunes you will see for the most part is it all logical. You must think like a computer to understand one.
Reading across different forums or white paper articles where different people have exchanged information can be very confusing. Not everyone agrees. It can get political and downright nasty at times. If in doubt go to the man. Ask the product owner or tech support. In this case it would be Steve Cole. Steve is busy building 66 new calibrations as we speak but if you send him an email or call the office he will talk to you. All business owners enjoy talking about the strengths of their produce. He is no different and may keep you on the phone for an hour and blow all this stuff right over your head. It's actually fun !
Here is a short tune I did for another member here. SG/103/555 cams/ 2-1 pipe. It's called a short tune because the higher RPM's and kPa were not tuned properly due to time. If you click on a VE table then 3-D Graph you will see a little of what I'm talking about.
Caution... this calibration is not intended to be used for any other bike. All bikes breath differently. The settings in this calibration may damage your engine components. This is NOT a clone calibration for your use. YOU use it, YOU blow it, it's on YOU.
https://www.box.com/s/so7fhgfqk2dn5kbfmlcj
This file above am I doing something wrong I cant download