TTS Mastertune Information
#3571
Per your post #3562 - either method normally gives good results...just remember to return some of those values to the original settings.
Posting maps here will probably require you to use an outside web site and then link that site here.
Good luck!
Posting maps here will probably require you to use an outside web site and then link that site here.
Good luck!
#3572
I have the stock TTS map for A/C & race exhaust on my 08 1200 nightster.
Everything is perfect except when I am at steady speeds.
Then it is lean. What is the best way to change this to a richer mix
when am holding the throttle at a steady rpm without affecting WOT or other
throttle positions?
Thanks,
Bok
Everything is perfect except when I am at steady speeds.
Then it is lean. What is the best way to change this to a richer mix
when am holding the throttle at a steady rpm without affecting WOT or other
throttle positions?
Thanks,
Bok
but here you say
The dyno showed I was running lean at steady speeds. It is also generating more heat than before the tune. I am not wanting to take a test ride to generate a map at this time. Is there a way to do this by adjusting the map I now have loaded?
now you have a dyno tuned map?
take all the 14.6 afr cells to 13.9 this will take it out of closed loop and fatten it up. how accurate it is depends on if the ve's were correct to begin with. sportsters dont like stoich at all.
#3575
So much for this section.
The dyno showed I was running lean at steady speeds. It is also generating more heat than before the tune. I am not wanting to take a test ride to generate a map at this time. Is there a way to do this by adjusting the map I now have loaded
maybe you guys missed this.
but go ahead and wow me with all your experience tuning sportsters
#3576
Which is better... using a canned calibration from the box and making blind changes?
Which one will guarantee you the best experience without running lean or rich?
Taking blind shots at changing your calibration without knowing what is going on isn't something I would do to anyone's bike, Sporty or Touring, stock or modified.
...but that 's just me. Respectfully submitted of course.
If this helps... when you get your stock Harley the configuration is lean. HD leaves about 30% of your efficiency on the factory floor. When flashing to a canned calibration from TTS you will get a Dyno tuned calibration for what the description says. If in doubt, when there is not a good match, always chose the calibration just under (smaller) your modifications. Then VTune. Choosing a larger calibration can be a detriment to your motor.
#3577
#3578
OK
Which is better... using a canned calibration from the box and making blind changes?
Which one will guarantee you the best experience without running lean or rich?
Taking blind shots at changing your calibration without knowing what is going on isn't something I would do to anyone's bike, Sporty or Touring, stock or modified.
...but that 's just me. Respectfully submitted of course.
If this helps... when you get your stock Harley the configuration is lean. HD leaves about 30% of your efficiency on the factory floor. When flashing to a canned calibration from TTS you will get a Dyno tuned calibration for what the description says. If in doubt, when there is not a good match, always chose the calibration just under (smaller) your modifications. Then VTune. Choosing a larger calibration can be a detriment to your motor.
Which is better... using a canned calibration from the box and making blind changes?
Which one will guarantee you the best experience without running lean or rich?
Taking blind shots at changing your calibration without knowing what is going on isn't something I would do to anyone's bike, Sporty or Touring, stock or modified.
...but that 's just me. Respectfully submitted of course.
If this helps... when you get your stock Harley the configuration is lean. HD leaves about 30% of your efficiency on the factory floor. When flashing to a canned calibration from TTS you will get a Dyno tuned calibration for what the description says. If in doubt, when there is not a good match, always chose the calibration just under (smaller) your modifications. Then VTune. Choosing a larger calibration can be a detriment to your motor.
choosing a larger cal is not always a bad thing,if for nothing else the timing table isnt as aggressive.
anyway
ok here is what he posted.
Originally Posted by Bokster
I have the stock TTS map for A/C & race exhaust on my 08 1200 nightster.
Everything is perfect except when I am at steady speeds.
Then it is lean. What is the best way to change this to a richer mix
when am holding the throttle at a steady rpm without affecting WOT or other
throttle positions?
Thanks,
Bok
I have the stock TTS map for A/C & race exhaust on my 08 1200 nightster.
Everything is perfect except when I am at steady speeds.
Then it is lean. What is the best way to change this to a richer mix
when am holding the throttle at a steady rpm without affecting WOT or other
throttle positions?
Thanks,
Bok
The dyno showed I was running lean at steady speeds. It is also generating more heat than before the tune. I am not wanting to take a test ride to generate a map at this time. Is there a way to do this by adjusting the map I now have loaded?
if a dyno map ? the ve's MIGHT stand a better chance of being close. so going to 13.9 would give him a richer AFR. remember what he is asking for? he thinks its lean,and wants to fatten it up without generating a v tune.
a canned sporster map? actually with the limited area you operate in it isnt hard to make a canned map work on a sporster out of the box. the moco spent some time developing the sporster 176 maps
by work I mean you can ride it without it hurting the motor ,and not have it spitting back through the throttle body. they are kinda finicky at a lean mixture expecially when the head temp rises.
#3579
hope it made sense. I think I understand what your saying
#3580