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TTS Mastertune Information

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  #2521  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:11 PM
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Last edited by gd55; 06-20-2011 at 09:57 AM.
  #2522  
Old 06-27-2011, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Reaper_ggy
Thanks for youre patience.

I've reread what you wrote and just understood why you copy and paste.
As for the Close loop bias when the vtune is done you keep the original settings or you stay with the 681 ???

Originally Posted by Mr. Wizard
You keep the settings. If you change the CBL then you change the VE's tables automatically. It's an internal calculation by the software.

Mr. Wizard,
So you ditch the 681 that you put in and use the original in your first Calibration (that matches your bike config)? And This will adjust the VE tables automatically after you paste them in the first calibration with the base CLB?
It was unclear in both Doc's guide and even in the original MT guide.
I thought if you changed the CLB you had to rerun the vtune process to the CLB you select.


EDIT!!! I reread the Flow chart and it says to not change that table back so it's left at what you select DUHH!!



So I'm clear, basically all you are doing is copying and pasting your VE tables from your last vtune/Calibration acceptance map into your first calbration
Should you do the blending of the VE tables across and down or just copy them into the cells that they belong to and leave the rest alone?

Smitty
 

Last edited by Smittyjf; 06-28-2011 at 08:09 AM.
  #2523  
Old 07-01-2011, 12:06 PM
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Can one of you experts help me with a simple question? I need to change my primary gear according to a TSS tech bulletin since my 6 gear indicator is intermittent.
I just bought the cables and was wondering once I am communicating with the ECM, if I make the change in the drop down menu for primary ratio if that is a live change to the ECM or do I have to change it on the PC then upload it?
If it needs uploaded could someone write directions so an inexperienced person (myself) can understand?
 
  #2524  
Old 07-01-2011, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WVNightrain Rider
Can one of you experts help me with a simple question? I need to change my primary gear according to a TSS tech bulletin since my 6 gear indicator is intermittent.
I just bought the cables and was wondering once I am communicating with the ECM, if I make the change in the drop down menu for primary ratio if that is a live change to the ECM or do I have to change it on the PC then upload it?
If it needs uploaded could someone write directions so an inexperienced person (myself) can understand?
You will need to click on the tools section when viewing your map. You will find a speedo calibrator there. Follow the directions in the help files or in the manual to find your proper number.

The speedo number is held within the ECM, not the map/calibration you flash. When flashing a map/calibration into the ECM there will be a pop up screen asking you to change or skip the speedo number change. Add your new number there then hit Save.

You don't use the Primary Gear Ratio Settings in the Tune Constants area of the map/calibration. Leave it alone.
 
  #2525  
Old 07-02-2011, 07:16 AM
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One quick question.
I have a 2009 Street Glide stock with stock cams (V&H Slipons and SE A/C). I tried the came tune and came up with the first upswing at 5 then a second larger one at 6. I tried the 6 and the idle was bad. I then tried to use the 5 and the idle rpm was smoother than the stock 4 setting, but it kind of sounded like it was skipping a cylinder and not like a methodical idle would sound. I ended up back at the stock 4 setting, but the idle always seems like it jumps alot, esp on first cold start. It goes from 1400 to 900 to 1000 and finally resides after 10 or so seconds at 1000.
Also, even when its up to operating temp and you come to a stop sign, it kind of falls below 900 and comes back up to 900-1000

The tune I made is very good with the stock setting of 4, a little pop in the grumble when it falls below 1700 on decel, but overall the bike runs the best it ever has. No surging at all (which was my MAJOR problem with the fuel pak) while in low rpm and shifting is smooth when rolling on the throttle through the gears.

I'm wondering if I should have tuned it with the 5 cam setting and see what the idle would have been after a few vtunes that way.
Any advice?
 
  #2526  
Old 07-02-2011, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Smittyjf
One quick question.
I have a 2009 Street Glide stock with stock cams (V&H Slipons and SE A/C). I tried the came tune and came up with the first upswing at 5 then a second larger one at 6. I tried the 6 and the idle was bad. I then tried to use the 5 and the idle rpm was smoother than the stock 4 setting, but it kind of sounded like it was skipping a cylinder and not like a methodical idle would sound. I ended up back at the stock 4 setting, but the idle always seems like it jumps alot, esp on first cold start. It goes from 1400 to 900 to 1000 and finally resides after 10 or so seconds at 1000.
Also, even when its up to operating temp and you come to a stop sign, it kind of falls below 900 and comes back up to 900-1000

The tune I made is very good with the stock setting of 4, a little pop in the grumble when it falls below 1700 on decel, but overall the bike runs the best it ever has. No surging at all (which was my MAJOR problem with the fuel pak) while in low rpm and shifting is smooth when rolling on the throttle through the gears.

I'm wondering if I should have tuned it with the 5 cam setting and see what the idle would have been after a few vtunes that way.
Any advice?
I used 5 on my stock cams as that is where I had the first break when doing the cam selctor and idle is nice and smooth, settles in at about 1050 or so and never bobbles. I would give the 5 a go and see what happens. mine runs extremely smooth and no pops at all.
 
  #2527  
Old 07-02-2011, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Smittyjf
One quick question.
I have a 2009 Street Glide stock with stock cams (V&H Slipons and SE A/C). I tried the came tune and came up with the first upswing at 5 then a second larger one at 6. I tried the 6 and the idle was bad. I then tried to use the 5 and the idle rpm was smoother than the stock 4 setting, but it kind of sounded like it was skipping a cylinder and not like a methodical idle would sound. I ended up back at the stock 4 setting, but the idle always seems like it jumps alot, esp on first cold start. It goes from 1400 to 900 to 1000 and finally resides after 10 or so seconds at 1000.
Also, even when its up to operating temp and you come to a stop sign, it kind of falls below 900 and comes back up to 900-1000

The tune I made is very good with the stock setting of 4, a little pop in the grumble when it falls below 1700 on decel, but overall the bike runs the best it ever has. No surging at all (which was my MAJOR problem with the fuel pak) while in low rpm and shifting is smooth when rolling on the throttle through the gears.

I'm wondering if I should have tuned it with the 5 cam setting and see what the idle would have been after a few vtunes that way.
Any advice?
Smitty... Start at 5 IVO and flash your map. Do a datamaster recording and look at your idle kPa. If your warm idle kPa is in the high 30's or low 40's you need to use the lower IVO of 4. Your idle kPa should be in the mid 20's to mid 30's.

The upswing in idle RPM's could be any of several factors so I won't try to nail that down for you but on our 09 SG I moved the IVC to 2 and it helped smooth the idle.

Remember, if you change your IVO or IVC you must VTune again.


wiz
 
  #2528  
Old 07-02-2011, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Smittyjf
One quick question.
the idle always seems like it jumps alot, esp on first cold start. It goes from 1400 to 900 to 1000 and finally resides after 10 or so seconds at 1000.
Also, even when its up to operating temp and you come to a stop sign, it kind of falls below 900 and comes back up to 900-1000
Have you made any adjustments to your warm up enrichment or iac tables?
 
  #2529  
Old 07-02-2011, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Lonewolf176
Have you made any adjustments to your warm up enrichment or iac tables?
Nope,
All original through all the tuning process. Just changed what was recommended and changed back in final calibration.

I have a pretty good route that I planned when I tune so it's pretty easy hitting all the cells good. I have to say, its a joy to ride a tuned bike (or close to it)
The only other thing I need to do is change out these crappy stock rear shocks. This bike bottoms out terribly if you hit the smallest pothole and i've tried several diff air settings.

Smitty
 

Last edited by Smittyjf; 07-02-2011 at 01:03 PM.
  #2530  
Old 07-02-2011, 01:41 PM
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The first thing I would do is make sure the tps reading (when warm and out of warmup enrichment) is 5% or below. If that is good I would adjust the IAC warmup steps table. Datalog the temp to make the change. The number in the table will not line up with the iac steps you will see in the datalog as there are a number of things that lead to the displayed value. Try decreasing the number a couple in the cells around the temp. The other table that can have an effect is the warmup enrichment table. Usually these tables are very close and don't need to be adjusted.
 


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