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  #2171  
Old 04-16-2011, 01:09 PM
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Nothing wrong with LW's post... he has it right on.

Don't worry about putting the trike on a dyno. Like LW said, you only have three choices for Intake closing. Recommend is #3 for the 555. No dyno just means you need to experiment a little.

The IO that was recommended to me (via the cam selector) was one number off according to the analyst on my 26H but I used the recommended numbers anyway. Still working with my VE's and will complete that tune, save it and try another number and save it. Will run the best tune.

There is still much info I'm reading on the EGR for smoothing VE's so I'm still learning.... More when I know it but I may just leave it alone even though it's said smoothing using the EGR will increase lower TQ.
 
  #2172  
Old 04-16-2011, 04:11 PM
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Quote from Mr. Wizard
"There is still much info I'm reading on the EGR for smoothing VE's so I'm still learning..."
Is there more information out there to read about EGR and VE's other than in the manual and help files ???
 
  #2173  
Old 04-16-2011, 04:19 PM
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Yeah... there is more info on other sites such as harley tech talk

The manual is pretty skinny when it comes to the EGR information.
 
  #2174  
Old 04-16-2011, 05:40 PM
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I am new to this forum and to MasterTune. Let me first say that I am not a mechanic. I have done a bunch of reading in this thread today and I have learned a great deal. I have recently added the Perfect Storm Kit to my 2007 Ultra Classic and have been attempting today to tune the bike. The canned map that I downloaded from the Kuryakyn website was installed, but the bike ran like crap. I couldn't even get the engine above 3500 RPMs going down hill. Feels like I am towing an 18-wheeler behind me. Anyway, I started from scratch and loaded a diagnostic map with AFRs set to 14.6 and most other tables set to 0. The front and rear closed loop bias set to 642. I warmed the enging to 180 degrees and ran the bike for approximately 17 minutes. Bike still ran like crap. After I stopped the recording, saved the data, and shut off the bike I brought the data from the mastertune and datamaster into V-Tune to get a new mixture. Every block is white and I am not able to adjust anything. I can email the DataMaster file as well as the MasterTune dignostic file to see if anyone here can open it on their computer and tell me what I am doing wrong. I have a feeling that the problem is because the air temp is in the upper 30s here today and the run cooled the engine temp below the 165 degree requirement. If you have any idea what is wrong, please let me know. THANKS!!
 
  #2175  
Old 04-16-2011, 11:13 PM
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I have a 2007 EGlide Classic and just had the jugs bored for the 103 with SE cast flat top pistons and heads ported and polished with .018 head gasket and Andrews 54h cams. I have done a couple vtune runs with the mt7's and now a couple more with the mt8's. Before I started I called a local dealer that has been trained on the tts to see what size my stock injectors are, they told me not to mess with the injector size. The cal I am using is set for 3.91 injectors but after reading on here I believe I should have set the injector size to 4.35. Can any body tell me if I am correct? And I just have to say this thread is awsome and has taught me a lot about the tts. I have also been amazed at how simple the tts is to use. I have not yet started messing with timing but am planning to give it a try. Thanks in advance for any info.
 
  #2176  
Old 04-17-2011, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullfrog
I have a 2007 EGlide Classic and just had the jugs bored for the 103 with SE cast flat top pistons and heads ported and polished with .018 head gasket and Andrews 54h cams. I have done a couple vtune runs with the mt7's and now a couple more with the mt8's. Before I started I called a local dealer that has been trained on the tts to see what size my stock injectors are, they told me not to mess with the injector size. The cal I am using is set for 3.91 injectors but after reading on here I believe I should have set the injector size to 4.35. Can any body tell me if I am correct? And I just have to say this thread is awsome and has taught me a lot about the tts. I have also been amazed at how simple the tts is to use. I have not yet started messing with timing but am planning to give it a try. Thanks in advance for any info.
07 Still had the 3.91 injectors.
 
  #2177  
Old 04-17-2011, 06:45 AM
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Ok thanks, I thought I had read somewhere on here that they were the 4.35 but wasn't sure. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
 
  #2178  
Old 04-17-2011, 08:24 AM
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Default CLB settings-performance & gas mileage

I have an 07 Ultra with SEAC and SE slip ons. I was running the MT7 map with the base map CLB values. Had done Vtune runs a year ago to adjust the VE values. Been getting upper 30's on interstate riding (70-80 mph) and low 40's on 2 lane (55 mph riding). Just started doing new Vtunes using the new MT8 maps. I am using CPZ176-03-A0 as my base map. That base map has the CLB tables loaded with values from 525 to 642. I am doing multiple Vtune runs with those base CLBs as well as changing all the CLBs to 525, then 506, then 447 with respective Vtune runs (going to take awhile!). I plan to see what difference that makes on performance and gas mileage. Has anyone else done this already? If so, what were your results? I started this process last week but my stock compensator came apart in my primary. The dealer has my bike now doing a warranty upgrade to the SE compensator. Hope to get it back within a week to start the Vtune process again!
 
  #2179  
Old 04-17-2011, 09:14 PM
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Thanks to Mr. Wizard's patient assistance, I have had a great performing 2010 Ultra for the past few months. I recently decided to try a set of V&H slash cuts, and now that the MT8 files are here, will retune from scratch. Which leads me to my question. I get the impression from recent posts, that even though I have stock CAMs, I should still do the IVO setup before starting my VTune runs. Is this correct?.
 
  #2180  
Old 04-17-2011, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Wizard
Let's try to break a myth. When tuning in your closed loop areas in your VTune calibration you don't need to get into haul **** mode. There is no need to ride like a madman or put yourself in a bad situation.

Casual riding speeds will give you awesome cell readings. When getting up in the higher kPa cells you drop out of closed loop... there is no 02 sensor readings there for VTune. Even during casual riding you will not be able to get readings in every cell, it's impossible. How can you be in 80kPa at 2000 RPM's long enough to gather data. How many times are you going to be riding in that cell? Probably never.

To get loads in the upper kPa you can fake an uphill load by shifting up a gear and twisting the throttle. To get loads in the upper RPM's in lower kPa you downshift and feel like an idiot but it will do the job with lower MPH. There is no need to hurry. There will be data written in these cells and it will not go away. Try to repeat what you are doing several times and the data will eventually turn that cell green.

Try not to go crazy with your data recording times. Yes, you can record for a very long time but why? Will your data change while you are cruising around in the same RPM and kPa for an hour? Probably not and if it does it won't be much. I believe I've been told that any more than 35,000 data hits will degrade your recording anyway. Personally I try to keep data hits under 8000. My average is 4500. Some laptops will not record over 6000 hits due to one physical reason or another. So, may as well keep it less than 30 minute runs and do as many of those as you can.

Caution... running a VTune calibration will lean your bike out so it's going to run hot. There is another reason to keep your data hits low. If you feel an excessive amount of heat pull over and stop your recording. Bring a soda or bottle water with you in case you need to stop for a while in a sparse area.


Now, I have a netbook with a SSD drive and my average battery time is 14 hours. Maybe one day I'll see just how long I can record with my normal calibration is in...



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does it matter what gear(s) you use? is it better to use lower or higher or does it matter? thanks
 


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