Hi Robin,
Maybe I can shed some light here having tuned using both the traditional VE calibration (synchronizing) method and the V-Tune VE calibration method.

Traditional calibration method: ie set all AFR table cells to 13.2 (or 13.5) open loop and use a dyno sniffer to read AFR and manually set VE's to achieve the 13.2 (or 13.5) everywhere. Then go back in the AFR table and set the desired mix of best AFR's for a the given areas of operation. And yes, with this method the CLB adjustments made after the VE calibration will make the requested AFR bias in the cells (areas of operation) whereby you set 14.6 (Closed Loop).

V-Tune calibration method: you let the on board OE sensors help you calibrate the VE's ala the V-Tune feature, one needs to "pre-set" the CLB's as you are now using the Closed Loop function to assist in the VE calibration. The V-Tune calibration is a big, big plus IMO. Of course now you are calibrating to 14.6 (or maybe 14.2 depending on the CLB mV set). If offset is 0.4 AFR, keep this in mind when resetting the AFR table to any non Closed Loop number.

Having done some tests with WB sensors (subjective term), sensors behave their best near 14.6 (for gasoline) when they're in a misbehaving mood. The OE switching sensors are very accurate and dependable at 14.6-ish AFR even compared to the consumer grade WB sensors to include the sensor in the DJ Dyno AFR sniffer. Yet another reason the V-Tune feature is a home run.

 

Thanks John. I guess I'll have to get a mastertune setup for my bike ( I was hoping Steve would sell/have an update option to those of us who already owned SERTs) so I can properly compare/learn.
Robin

 

Hey guys,

I'm new to HD, I just bought an 08 Ultra back in Oct. I need to tune the bike mostly because I have been having overheating problems. My bike is stock and I ride sometimes in heavy traffic and the bike really got HOT a few times. I found out through the many forums and other friends that the 07-08 HD bikes run hotter than the earlier years.

I have been looking at the SERT, SEST and now the TTS product. I plan on doing all the tuning myself so what is yopur feeling about either of these products? I'm looking for something that will allow me to fine tune my bike so I can eliminate the overheating problem, improve my performance and possibly increase my milage.

I've been reading through this thread and some of the terms i'm not familiar with.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

So would it then follow that setting the CLB to 14.6 or very close would be best with the V-Tune method - because the 02 sensors are responding best at this level? If AFR levels are then to be adjusted they are adjusted in the AFR table not the CLB??
Finally if I have set the CLB to say 14.3 and done my V-tune and my AFR tables are set at say 14.6 at closed loop and I then looking at data-master files shouldn't the AFR readings there be close. That is at a given RPM shouldn't the AFR be close to the expected? Mine look much richer - lower #. Or is this too simplistic????

Re- reading the master tune manual I came across this -

Changes to the Closed-Loop Bias table are done for the same reasons the AFR table would be changed: power, fuel economy, knock, etc. However, changing the closed-loop bias has the advantage of maintaining closed-loop operation with a non-stoichiometric AFR value.

So If I set my CLB to I think it was 648 roughly equiv. to 14.3 AFR then I am achieving 14.3 at all closed loop AFR values of 14.6 in the AFR tables - is this correct?

 

See post# 105 in this thread

Seems to be correct for me ....

 

Ok, please don't read anything into this. I am just asking because I want to know. The TTS Mastertune and V-Tune depend on the OEM narrow band O2 sensors. So this system is limited by the range of the OEM sensors. Why spend $425.00 USD on the Mastertune, when the TSCAN2-PLUS-KIT costs $547.50 and is able to utilize more complete data provided by the two Bosch LSU 4.2 wide-band oxygen sensors? It seems to me that tuning runs with the TwinScan would be more productive because you are not limited by the OEM sensors. And I can use the TwinScan on as many different bikes as I want. I'm not trying to start anything, just trying to decide on the best tuning solution for me.

 

Would the TSCAN2 allow you to flash the ECM directly or would you need a SERT module and cables also?

 

The TSCAN2-PLUS KIT is for data logging and it can clear DTCs it dose not let you tune or change any of the ECM tables. If you have a SERT or PC it helps the person tunning a bunch. It can be benificial to a person using MasterTune also but not needed. The TSCAN2 PLUS is a tool not a tuner.

 

I understand that I cannot change the ECM programming w/the TwinScan but that it only logs data. I already have a SEST Pro. My bad that I didn't make this clear before. Seems to me that if I didn't already have the SEST that maybe the TTS Mastertune and V-Tune would be the best bang for the buck, but at this point maybe the TSCAN2-PLUS KIT would better fit my needs.

 

I agree, it seems like a good tool for someone who already has a SERT or SEST.

But, you are talking nearly $1000 to get a TSCANII and a SE*T, not $547.50.