I was able to find a contact email for Doc on a different forum. Try this...
IDW <hdmd88@yahoo.com>

 

Will the ECM (stock '10 FatBoyLo) handle an exhaust upgrade (i.e. V&H BSS). TTS is on the short list but might have to wait.

Thanks for help.

Tom

 

Yep, should be fine as long as the air cleaner is stock.

 

Just a note
I got my tuner before my air intake. See I have already disassembled the stock exhaust and pulled the fiberglass out of the baffle and replaced the baffle back into the muffler. I noticed that on de-acceleration there was a noticable popping which I knew was going to happen, but what I didnt expect to happen was for the exhaust to turn blue so rapidly and further down the pipe. So just a warning to all who have have a nice shinny new exhaust expect it to turn color fast if you dont tune the bike richer.
Now you can assist in helping the exhaust by painting the pipe inside the header and collector area with high temp grille paint this will delay and or prevent effects of bluing. So I would recommend a tune before anything is added.

I went with a tune with slip ons and after market filter, WOW what a difference in the mid range. My roll on was impressive and the bike felt more confident. I did still notice some popping from the exhaust still. So I richened up the decel enrich table across the board 2 increments, raised the spark temp table one degree were I saw the computer taking out timing. As for the cylinder bias I raised the from 2 increments and the rear 3 increments, as for idle I richend the mixture to 13.5, and idle rpm down to 904 rpm, and accel enrichment is incresed 2 increments. What another difference engine is running cooler spark plugs show better color more of a very light tan color, I can bark the rear tire if I goose throttle in gear no popping from exhaust. smells a lil rich at idle but I dont see black out the exhaust. Even people I ride with noticed that the exhaust smells richer and that there is no black smoke. Another point is that the Suzuki intruder 1400 that was neck and neck with me I can now walk away from him with a passenger.
Then I added a filter. I got a screamin eagle backing plate at the dealer for 30 and the hardware to install it for 20 and a zippers air filter upgrage (the wider one) for 55. Did not notice any gain but acually felt like I lost power. maybe the added noise from the air filter is a factor. Almost sounds like the stock throttle body is to big for the engine.

 

Hi all,

Coincidently, this is my first post (on this particular forum)... have read through all of this great TTS MasterTune information over the last few weeks and would like some positive reassurance and some advice on my setup and tuning process.

Background:

I've got a 2010 V-Rod Muscle/VRSCF. This bike runs so lean from the factory that it stutters/hesitates/misses in closed loop between about 2000RPM and 5000RPM. From my reading on various forums this is a well-known issue; add to that, my header pipes are blue and tend to glow a nice dull orange on a regular basis. Enter MasterTune to fix my problem, and prepare me for tuning once future modifications arrive. At this point, I'm completely stock and just want to get a nice tuned stock map.

I'm setting my CLB tables for front and rear to the following:
1200 759 759 759 759 778
2500 759 759 759 759 778
3000 759 759 759 759 778
4000 759 759 759 759 778
5000 778 778 778 778 778

So basically, 14.54 AFR (759mV) if I'm reading the calculator correctly... and under extreme loads hardly ever reached (judging by my inability to come anywhere near 80kPa most of the time) - 14.45.

Question in regards to the 80kPa thing:
I'm having a problem getting anywhere NEAR 80kPa. According to the tuning guide, I should only blend cells where I've reached 80kPa and above. I'm not doing this, nor can I figure out how to properly do this while VTuning on the road. Doc's guide doesn't mention anything about these high MAP values... the TTS guide included does. Should I just blend anyway from "left to right" in the upper right quadrant and "top to bottom" in the lower left quadrant using the last WHITE cell in the VTune data, or leave it alone and use the base calibration data with no blending? The VE values seem to be all over the place (see attachment) so I'm finding it difficult to do any type of blending without scratching my head a bit.

I plan on doing one or two more VTune runs, the attached/linked VTune data is from my most recent VTune session.

Any feedback, advice, or positive reassurance (i.e. it's OK dude, keep doing what you're doing) is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Nick/WickedPorter

 

An update on my fuel mileage. Before the TTS I averaged about 40 mpg and the best I ever got was 47mpg. I just got back from a 4200 mile trip. First one since tuning with the TTS. CLB tables set at 759 and The lowest I got was 36mpg (running 80 mph on the interstate into a head wind). The highest I got was 55 mpg (slow easy cruising in the national park and 2 lane country roads). Average was mid to high 40s. Before the TTS my oil temp would routinely get 250-260 degrees. I never saw my oil get above 240 the whole trip. The oil temp during the trip averaged about 220. Bottom line, I'm VERY happy with this product. Lower temps and better mileage. I don't know how they do it, but I like it.

 

Did the CLB table values of 759 come from the TTS map or did you set those yourself? If you set them yourself what did you use to come up with the value of 759?

 

Quick question. I go for a 20 to 30 minute ride doing a vtune. Get back check everything and only have a 10 to 12 minute screen. Does this sound correct ?
Seems like a waste of gas and time, if its only going to use 1/2 the time.

 

Your laptop has the 15 minute hic-up. I had one do this and about 15 minutes was all I could VTune.

Either your hard drive shuts down or it has the safety software that senses a bump and turns off the hard drive or your system goes into hibernation or your laptop will turn off when the top is closed. It could even be the USB cable if it is a generic cable.

TTS talks about this in their manual but sometimes you can't fix the laptop to record more.

 

Others can chime in here, but basically: All the info comes with the TTS software. The instructions tell you not to go too rich on the mixture or you risk damage to the O2 sensors. 450 on the CLB tables is standard 14.68 AFR. thats what the stock map tries to maintain. 800 on the CLB tables is about 14.2 AFR the max TTS recommends. So I just chose a number that was a little on the rich side (759 is about 14.54 AFR) and really like how my tune came out. If you can download the TTS instructions and take a look at the CLB tables and it will make more sense.