Beerun
One thing with this 58MM TB is, before starting out, increase the Accell Increaser some. Otherwise the engine pilot light goes out. Feels like. Needs more gas at that time
When you twist the throddle a whole lot more air will now go in at that instant.
You will find the sweet spot.

 

I added 5% to the accell before I down loaded to the ecm. We rode this past weekend 2 up and the bike seems to perform good. I didn't get crazy with it but I did get into it pretty hard a few times and it's pretty quick.

I'm going to run some Spark advance run and try to increase my spark time using the Datamaster.

I haven't had this much fun programing sense my Commodore computer.

 

Now that Jamie at FuelMoto doesn't sell TTS, who else is discounting the system?

 

I just got done with my first spark adjustment run and the bike idle much smother then it did before the adjustment and has more power. My first data run I noticed that the front cylinder, the spark retard was more active then the rear cyl. I took away a few deg. in the front cylinder areas that the re-tared was coming in and added 3 deg. to the hole map in the rear cyl.
I did another data master run and made a few more adjustment in the Front and rear cylinder. I hope to run it tonight to see how it turns out.

If anyone has done this to there bike.

 

Remember: At 0 TP/Closed Thottle, the Closed Throttle Spark Table replaces the Main Spark and Spark Temperature Correction tables.

 

Does this table control both f & R cylinders. and it looks like this tables cut out at 147.2 deg. Fahrenheit.

 

Yes, controls both cylinders.

Don't think so......I've seen it at 280*F.

A good Data Recording will tell you for sure!

 

I made about 10 data-master runs and adjusting the small areas that spiked up. I had more spikes in the front cylinder and had non in the rear cylinder. I ended up adjusting the rear cyl. spark from 15 to 80 kpa up 5 deg.s more before getting any spike out it. The front cylinder I left alone because it was already spiking. Is this normal.

I also worked on WOT and bumped up the 100 kpa in both F & R cylinders 1 deg at a time. I stops at 4 deg.s total and never got a spike in ether cylinder. The bike pulls pretty hard ( front tire off the ground just WOT in first at 2500 rpm ) and off the ground in 2nd.
Should I keep adding spark in 100kpa until I get a spike or just leave it alone.

 

Dave at JD's Cycle Works sells the TTS for 385.00 I don't know if it is this price when only getting the bike tuned by him or not. He is in Bethlehem PA.

www.jdscycleworks.com

 

I hear M&M Cycles has a good price

https://www.mandmcycles.com/homepage.htm