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TTS Mastertune Information

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  #1321  
Old 05-03-2010, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 55tango
Thanks for the offer, I do have the latest from TTS (way too much info in that one) and Doc's version 2 also. That's why I asked about that last copy/paste as I don't see that anywhere in either. They both stop at "blending" the VE tables, setting everything back (the tables you initially set to 0), saving then flashing...
I just find it easier to copy the VE tables from B and pasting them in A... less numbers steps and less for me to goof up.

Blending is important and not everyone knows to do that but since all the work is concentrated in the VE tables... well... you get my point.

Hope everything works out and you enjoy your TTS as I do on all of my bikes.

-wiz
 
  #1322  
Old 05-03-2010, 11:20 AM
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Mr. Wizard, Just curious why go through the cut & paste? The 'A' & 'B' are the same other than the 'B' has the various tables changed for the V-tune process. At the end of the V-tune sessions I just reset the previusly changes tables (except CLB) to the original settings and flash to ECM.

55, The biggest thing is to keep track of which file is which. Your last Mastertune file, just reset the tables you changed when starting except for the CLB's and flash this to the ECM.

beerun, try doing the spark advance tuning as described in the TTS tuning guide. Just did it with my '08 RG and it made a difference. Set up a new folder in the TTS folder so that you can keep track of which files are which. It wasn't hard or complicated, just remember to setup the data for your bike and pay attention to the bike & how it feels. I couldn't get mine to do any spark retarding below 80 Kpa and ended up with 5 deg of advance over the baseline because I could feel a change in engine vibes.
 
  #1323  
Old 05-03-2010, 11:37 AM
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Thanks all! I think I get why Wiz does it that way. On another note, any experience out there with how many tuning runs it takes with a fairly stock over a custom build? When I first tuned my FLHR all I had was a Stage I and it took two-three runs before all my cells were white.

With the new build, I'm going on my fifth run, and still have a "few" reds and a bunch of pinks...sure like to get done sometime...
 
  #1324  
Old 05-03-2010, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by frydaddy96
Mr. Wizard, Just curious why go through the cut & paste? The 'A' & 'B' are the same other than the 'B' has the various tables changed for the V-tune process. At the end of the V-tune sessions I just reset the previusly changes tables (except CLB) to the original settings and flash to ECM. <snip>
fd... it's just my way of doing it, my way of being different I guess and you mentioned CLB... I also change my A map CLB and leave it to 684 but I do this while setting up my A map for the street. Mainly in the 20 kPa AFR or Lambda for cooler idle or changing the spark tables to a different cam.

Although I forgot to mention that I did say there was a lot more to it and pointed out the PDF file now circulating from Doc.

As far as the Adaptive Knock Retard Tables go... Some say it's best to leave them alone while others say to leave them all set to 0. As long as I leave the Anti-know engaged there has never been an issue so I leave them set at 0. Doc says to leave them at 0 and I do trust his knowledge.

You never know who you are talking to or who else may be reading this. Giving too much info could cause a royal muck up. So many here have knowledge at different levels when tuning and not knowing at which tuning level the poster is at I do try to keep it generalized.
 
  #1325  
Old 05-03-2010, 12:45 PM
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beerun, try doing the spark advance tuning as described in the TTS tuning guide. Just did it with my '08 RG and it made a difference. Set up a new folder in the TTS folder so that you can keep track of which files are which. It wasn't hard or complicated, just remember to setup the data for your bike and pay attention to the bike & how it feels. I couldn't get mine to do any spark retarding below 80 Kpa and ended up with 5 deg of advance over the baseline because I could feel a change in engine vibes.
I have a question on readying the spark table numbers. These numbers run from 1.00 to 30.00, what do these numbers represent. and if I was to add 1 or 3 degs to these numbers how would I do that.
Did you run your DATAMASTER when you added the timing, so you can watch the knock pulling the timing down.
 
  #1326  
Old 05-03-2010, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 55tango
Thanks all! I think I get why Wiz does it that way. On another note, any experience out there with how many tuning runs it takes with a fairly stock over a custom build? When I first tuned my FLHR all I had was a Stage I and it took two-three runs before all my cells were white.

With the new build, I'm going on my fifth run, and still have a "few" reds and a bunch of pinks...sure like to get done sometime...
With my experience level...

If the starter map is close and the rider is just out to enjoy his bike, cool it down with little to no hot ******* then do the cursing ranges until they are white, normally 3 to 4 runs are fine but I do keep the data hits to less than 6000 before stopping the recording.

A custom motor takes a bit longer unless you change your starter map before making it a "B" map. I've done a dozen runs or more before getting a custom map VE close just to find the CI has to be increased, again, to keep the VE cells out of 127.5. So for example I'll take a 103 up 10% and start over.

I guess the answer to your question is on a custom map... as many as it takes until you are satisfied and all cells that you can touch are white.
 
  #1327  
Old 05-03-2010, 01:24 PM
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A custom motor takes a bit longer unless you change your starter map before making it a "B" map. I've done a dozen runs or more before getting a custom map VE close just to find the CI has to be increased, again, to keep the VE cells out of 127.5. So for example I'll take a 103 up 10% and start over.
I Had to bump my ci up 15% to keep the VE out of the red and I started at 103"
 
  #1328  
Old 05-03-2010, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by beerun
I Had to bump my ci up 15% to keep the VE out of the red and I started at 103"
Looking at your custom info in your signature, I can see that could have been necessary. A friend of mine just built a 117 and had to take it up to 130 to get the VE's down... build similar to yours, little bigger cam and 58 TB. Says he grabs a handful of throttle now and will pull like a monster in 6th as well. He uses a TTS also and is enjoying his experience.
 
  #1329  
Old 05-03-2010, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by beerun
I Had to bump my ci up 15% to keep the VE out of the red and I started at 103"
Beerun, your build is fairly close to mine...in the "Tuning Constants" you up-ed the CID units from 103.3ci 15% to 118.8ci? Stock injectors 4.35?
 
  #1330  
Old 05-03-2010, 02:53 PM
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When I ran my first V-Tune I had a lot of red blocks ( over 127.5 ). I bumped it up 10% and still had one red block so I bumped up another 5%.
Now the ones that were red are running around about 123.0.
I'm running a 50mm TB with stock injector for now I'm waiting for a 58mm tb that's on back order from HD.
 


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