Sorry so slow in getting back to you guys. I've tied up with some other stuff this weekend.

Ok, so let me start by saying that the mileage has improved some since the unit was installed. 300 miles later, I've gone from 32-33 to 34-35. And the way things are going, I suspect this next tank will be little better yet.

Add to that, let me provide a little more detail around my commute. It's about 12 miles. As we all know, that's barely enough time for the bike to get up to a running temp.

So why do I bring this point up now?

In some of the reading I've been doing, it sounds like the T-max has to hit a certain temp before it will start to auto tune the bike. If that's the case, I may not be getting the bike warm enough for the mileage to improve.

My game plan for the future is two fold at this point:

1) Take longer commutes home. I did this a couple of times last week and do think it allowed the auto tune to do more of it's work to get things right. This is partly reflected in the slight increase in mileage. Note that I don't expect it to be exactly the same as stock simply because we're adding more fuel to the bike. I do however hope that the percentage lost is a little less then we started with!

2) I'll go ahead and get the computer connected on the bike again and spend some time studying the settings.

My overall goal here is to get the Mileage to be about 36-37 around town with mid 40's for highway and maintain the throttle responsiveness the bike currently has in it's current setup. Without a doubt, the responsiveness has been a vast improvement over stock in both lower speeds and especially higher speeds (which was to be expected with a TD system)

I'll update this thread with anything else I learn.

Thanks for the responses!

 

Running RICH is actually a GOOD thing for an AIR COOLED engine. Brings operating temps down. Remember that these bikes come overly LEAN from the factory to pass emission standards. If you want to get your miliage back up a bit, and gain some power in the process have some headwork done. Improving cylinder fill via headwork gains engine efficiency and can make a difference in your mpg in a positive manner.

 

I have to admit that I was disappointed in the mileage with the T-max at first but after letting it run for a while I have noticed I'm near the same mileage before I did the T-max. It does take a while but it is definitely worth it. I get 36-38 on my commute and 45-48 on my longer rides pretty consistently. It helps to get it on the road and ride and run some ignition cycles (on and off). I find the stock ECM is tuned for emissions and the T-max does a pretty good job of getting a good all around tune for basic performance and regular driving. I also think the bike is more fun to ride after the T-max and is hard to keep from hard throttle twisting!!!!

 

A couple more points that need to be made:
1. Altitude and riding speed were not addressed but I see that sorta is from Austin so he would be considered a flat-lander I suppose. Our elevation where I live is 1400ft and my mileage is right in that 32-33mpg range. But while I was in Sturgis just after having the T-Max installed I took a ride through the hills. Went from Sturgis to Needles highway up Iron Mountain Road and over to Hermosa then to Rapid City. Three of us rode together and we rode pretty hard and mileage was 44mpg.
2. Driving speed also has a huge effect for me. Running 60-65 I will get over 40mpg all day long (as long as I can resist the temptation to twist that throttle and smile). If I'm on the interstate running 75-80mph I'll get down around the 32mpg area again.
3. JustLoafin is absolutely right when he points out that it is hard to keep from twisting that throttle after the T-Max is installed. The extra responsiveness in low end and mid range is incredible!!
4. Stop and Go, wind, load, etc all have a negative effect as well. I try to run at least three tanks or more after any changes to get an average MPG.

 

You can fix this. Do a log of when you're on the interstate. Then see where your RPM and TPS are. Adjust your cruise range AFRs to include those areas. You should be getting 40+ even at 75-80mph. At 14.2 AFR, I get 40mpg doing 90mph on the interstate. It will be less if you have a bagger, but should definitely be better than 32.

 

sortasuave: Auto tuning will beging almost imediately. The fact that I have offsets at 768 rpm as the engine is started from cold pretty much proves that. I had just cleared my offsets prior to startup. However these and others are only stored in the module until you hit 200 and above head temp. At this temp they are automatically written to the module. I'm sure you are hitting 200+ on your trips. Increasing your CLP offset session to 10 will speed the learn up, or do more startups. Each one gives you a new session of offset creation.
Ron

 

I've been running map 447 for my combo and get 38 in the city, and 47 on the hiway cruising 65mph. I could never get it to run this smooth with the PCIII even after a dyno tune. Give the stock map some time before tweaking on it....at least 1000 miles.

95", Andrews 26N, Big Boyz heads @ 9.5:1, Supermeg 2-1, T-Max, A/N Big Sucker

 

I do have a bagger 2007 FLHR.

How do I "do a log"? The only way that I'm aware of is to use the Monitor function of the program. But in order to monitor the ecm don't you have to have the laptop connected to the module? Pretty tough for me to carry a laptop while running down the highway, can't put the laptop in the saddlebag because of the cable the lid would have to be left unlatched. I suppose I could try to strap it to the seat but that sounds kind of risky. Hmmm

 

I put the laptop in a backpack and run the wire through into it. Some laptops will go into sleep mode when closed, so I had to prop it open about an inch with some padding to keep it running.
Don't forget to take off the backpack when you get off the bike- you won't get far.
Guess how I know this.

 

Nestled deep somewhere within Windows' menuing system is an option to disable going to sleep or shutting down when the lid's closed. I'd look in the Control Panel somewhere first, maybe right-click on the desktop and find something, too. I prefer a decent operating system so I very rarely use Windows, but I know I've seen that option there somewhere.

The laptop case will fare much better on a motorcycle, in the long run, if the lid is latched closed.