Hey whats up, first thanks for taking the time to look at my post. I just installed a new set of 1-1/4 inch t bars with 6 inch integrated risers. I did the internal wiring job and changed out my clutch, brake, throttle and idle control cables myself along with some help from an experienced friend. Everything went too smooth from the beginning all the way til we went to mount the control switches, clutch, and brake handles back onto the bike. The clamps for the clutch handle will not clamp down straight and flush the way its supposed too. (yes the bars are tapered down to 1 inch). and the wires are being pinched when tightening down the switch housing. The wires were ALL color coded and we double checked them before we even did the soldering and shrink wrap. I think the problem is where the wires enter the bars is not dimpled enough. Should i try and drill/dremel it out? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks again for looking.

 

Where did you do the soldering? At the hand control? It may be that the dimple isn't big enough to accomodate all that wire/solder/heatshrink. You could try to dremel out the hole, but you would need to get the wires out first, because it does cause some heat, and it could melt through the wiring, or worse yet, you could cut the wires with the dremel.

Any particular reason you didn't just take the wires out of the connectors to run them inside the bars? I know the connectors can take a little work to get to, but that's how I've always done internal wiring.

 

The wires were cut near the wiring harness that is under the tank. The wire job was good with strong connections. I didn't know to take the wires out of the connectors to run them inside the bars. This technique I read about and a friend did it to his fat boy and worked out good. I left the stock insulating wrap on the wires all the way into the switch housing, would removing that just help the wires fit better?

 

It'll help for sure, but then you have another layer less of insulation. If you move the housings outboard a little, like 1/2 inch, it may help, also. The dimple on the bars should line up with a small groove on the housing to make a small channel where the wires can pass.

 

Thanks for the tip, I read elsewhere on this site that making a better dimple would be good, as i mentioned before by means of drilling or using a dremel tool. I hope this wouldn't compromise the integrity or strength of the bars. I will get it running and i have pics of the whole procedure that i will post for anyone that plans on taking on this task. If anyone else out there has any ideas please let me know. Thanks again

 

I had to bore out the dimple almost an inch and a half back towards the end of the bars just to fit the cables in, this was done after a few tries & ended up pinching the wiring in between the master & the controls, if these bars are from demon cycles then you need to drill out the hole on the right bar where it tapers back 1.5" I sanded & was able to smooth out any remaining edges as well as reinforced the wiring with some additional electrical tape..... Good luck as I'm in the same boat after the "stealership" screwed this up the first time...

 

so im doing this now on my 94 springer, i should cut and splice under the tank, thats the best place?