Since the 13.6 is not a real number of consequence your adding fuel yes, but without a dyno you have no idea where you really are to begin with. You can not use the 14. X number as if you were really only running 14.x to 1 The problem is your taking the A/F number to be a real number when really its nothing more than a coefficient of the V/E telling the computer that your engine is capable of 90 percent efficiency at Y percent of Throttle and at 90 percent efficiency you want the a/f to be 14.x to 1 or 13.x to one. So unless the bike was originally tuned elsewhere and you know what your fuel curve was to start out with you could have taken a bike from 18 to 1 down to 16 to 1 or only 17 to 1 and i have seen them as high as 20 to 1 on the dyno with spikes. Hence you added fuel maybe but you could still be out of range and hurting the motor / valves etc. People have said that a bike always runs it best right before it goes hehe.

Until you really understand the relationship of Volumetric Efficiencies to Fuel it makes it very hard to understand and I am probably not the best person at explaining this (sorry) Now on top of it being a percentage of efficiency you also have to factor in timing too.

My hope is this rambling is making sense. If your happy with the way it is running take the piece of mind spend the 50 bucks and put it on a dyno with a sniffer and be sure its running in range.

I applaud you trying and it may be perfect, but it would be rare and far and few between to do it like that

 

It's true that he doesn't know exactly where his fuel curve is at, but it's not like he is starting with a blank map and creating a new one. He's using the basic HD Stage I upload as a starting point. Even though these uploads are known to be lean, they are fairly safe. Adding some fuel is probably the safest thing he could do with that map as a starting point. I like the idea of taking advantage of the closed loop system as a starting point for home tuning because you stay with computer management of the engine. It's kind of funny, because the first pages of the manual give specific instructions on how to richen up the mixture by adjusting the closed loop bias tables.. ya think HD knew what folks were gonna be buying a sert for?...[8D]... anyways, I'm no expert by any means, but I've read the sert manual so many times that I think I've come close to memorizing it. Just interested in your thoughts on my theory.

 

I loaded the canned stage 1 map back into the bike just to be safe. I also noticed with the map i just removed that my gas mileage was sucking too. The canned map seems to run just fine. We only have 1 dyno tuner in town and they charge a bunch and have a long wait list.

Thanks for all the feedback guys, i understand enough now to know what adjustments i made were only a small piece of the puzzle. I like things to be perfect (and safe) so i just went back to the map that was made for my bike. I know it could use some tweaking because i believe my K-N filter probably breathes better than those crappy white HD filters but like i said, it's good enough for now

 

I would like to know if someone can answer a question on a part number for me. I received my tuner kit with both cables and CD 32117-01G and Part # 32114-01A-SUB A. Is this the correct Part# for the 32107-01E kit. The reason Im asking is I have seen part# 32114-01A listed for 04-Later carb Bikes. Thanks for any info. on this matter.

 

If you received the CD with latest software great 4.5.x Install the Tuning mode software and then go into it and go to the pull down menu's and find help and about or it should also be in the readme. Help and about will tell you the version number of the software you have installed.

You should then have a Black Box which is your tuner that has a RS232 Connection on both ends one male one female.

If you take that black box in hand and put the cable with the Deutsch connector on it then take off your saddle bag if any and take off your ECM cover if any and connect the deutsch connector to your ECM PLUG. If that all fits and goes together fine, then take the otherside of the race tuner black box and connect up the Black or white cable with male ends on it RS232 and it goes from black box to your computer or laptop.

If you have these pieces then your set to go. I don't have a break down on the parts, so this should help you make sure you received all the right parts in the box.

Once connected to your computer with the software installled .... you must pick the appropriate com port, then you must make sure the bike is in the run position on the right handle bar and also that your ignition is on. DO NOT START THE BIKE. When you pick a map to load load it it will find your ECM Identification number and match your Racer Tuner black box to your bike. Then your good to go.

A picture may help of what you have since I don't have a break down on the parts.

-harry

 

Thanks for the info. this should answer any questions I had. Will try to do as you said and see what happens Thanks again.

 

Ok guys, I'm new at this so I could use some help please.

I want to buy a SERT to tune my 2006 Super Glide Custom.

The latest SERT part number is 32107-01E...correct??

The latest CD software release is 32117-01G..correct??

Having both of those items should be all I need correct??

 

If you have both of them yes you should be good to go. In the box with the E should be your black box, your CD / your RS232 cable adn your ECM to black box cable with the Deutsch connector on the end of it. All that is left is needing a computer house or laptop that either has a serial port on it or a USB conversion to Serial port device. And the directions above to have the bike in the run position on the handle bar and the ignition on.

Good Luck

 

Once again Thanks for info. After I receive my true duals and new air cleaner I will let you know how everything worked out.

 

Thanks for the reply.