Picking up my exhaust in a few hours and I anticipate having to tweak my map a little. Looking for suggestions and voices of experience to help me get dialed in pretty good. I don't need to get it Nat's A$$ tweaked. I just want the pops and sputters gone. You input is highly appreciated.

As Is:
2006 FXSTSI
Forcewinder AC
CS slip-ons
25 degree injectors
SERT with Cal 52 loaded, 141NP002


To Be:
2006 FXSTSI
Forcewinder AC
Vance and Hines Short Shot Staggereds
25 degree injectors
SERT with Cal 52 loaded, 141NP002


I plan on starting with the same cal - it's the closest to my setup. With the CS slip-ons and no mods to the cal it ran pretty good. Only bad stuff was popping on decel and a pop/backfire shifting from 1st to 2nd under heavy accel. Didn't notice anything else. I'm assuming that's the best map to use to tune from once the Vance and Hines go on.

My preliminary questions:
Is this cal a good one to start with?
Anyone else set this up and know specific tweaks to the map I will definitely need to make?
Anything else I need to know?

Thanks!

 

SERT calibrations are designed around SE parts. That calibration will get you to a tuner. You are not going to be able to tune the bike yourself to any point where you will be satisfied unless you leanr how to data log and do many hours of it. My best advice is to load that map and see how you like it. Then decide whether or not you want a professional tune job. It is very difficult to get decell popping out unless you have an experienced guy do a complete dyno tune.(3-5 hours). JMHO.

 

Poping and backfireing are mostly indications of lean conditions.

There are all kinds of things that can improve things and everybody has their favorite way.

What I would do, just for now, and this won't hurt at all is this. Got to your calibration in the tuning files, open in and on both front and rear VE (volumetric effecencies) tables click on the upper left hand corner, this selects the whole table. Increase accross the board 10 units on both tables. Thats a bold move but otherwise nickle and dime never really notice a difference. Save the file as a new version..to say, "141NPoo3". This richenes up the whole spred because the ECMfigures more air, so adds more fuel.

Load this saved cal into the ECM.

This one thing might help and if you don't like that change it or go back to the original 141 cal. It'll still be there cause you made a new one to try.

Have fun

I ve got a friend in Baytown, Tx just opened a shop and has a Dino. He did my heads and owes me one good run, just for the fun of it. I might learn something, probably will. My bike does run good and I did it myself so it can be done, at least pretty good.

 

The decel enleanment table is for fixing decel popping. Cut the numbers in half in the temperature ranges you get popping, ie from 0.34 down to 0.16 or 0.17 from 112 to 160 deg C for normal operating temps. If you get popping while it's warming up, cut the numbers back in the lower temp ranges. Worked for me...no dyno required.

 

Popping or backfire onACELL is aLEAN mixture, theDECELL popping is caused byaRICH mixture and oxegenin the exhaust system, what you are hearing on decell is unburned fuel burning in the exhaust. During engine braking it is normal for any engine to have some unburned fuel in the exhaust, add open pipes that allow more oxegen to be sucked into pipes and the fuel ignites causing popping on decell. As murphdog says you want to lean out the mixture on decell, hench the decell enLEANment table.

 

Thanks for all the input. Have a ride in a few hours. We'll see if it's better or worse than before.

 

Actually the popping on decel is a lean condition. You will find that adding fuel to the decel enleanment as murphdog suggested you will notice quite an improvement. Enleanment means the higher the number the leaner it gets, so lowering the number adds fuel.

Marc

 

Reducing enleanment actually makes the mixture richer. Less lean = richer.

 

Ok, so everyone is saying the same thing, right? Lower #'s in enleanment table effectively richens the mix for that range and can help me adjust out decel popping.


Now....I've also got that pesky pop/backfire between shifts. Since the VH pipes went on and the Cycle Shacks came off it's worse (or just easier to hear). What to do about that? Go with Old Gunny's suggestion of adding 10 to the VE tables? Other posts are saying that the SE Heavy Breather pulls way more air than the SE AC. I'd suspect the Forcewinder pulls more air as well. So with the standard Stage I download I'm still setup way too lean.

I read another suggestion about changing the displacement by 10" in the tuning constants to fool it into thinking bigger motor --> therefore more air --> so it adjusts fuel accordingly. https://www.hdforums.com/m_3253783/tm.htm

Or are these the same suggestions, just implemented a different way?


Anyone ever strap a laptop to their backs and ride around hooked up to the bike in data mode? Wondering how long and how fast I'd need to go to get a good picture of the AFR across the full range. Or can I just rev it up in the driveway? Is the AFR effected by load on the engine? I mean, is their a difference between 3500 RPM in the driveway versus 2500 RPM in 5th gear on the highway?

 

You're probably letting off the throttle when you pull the clutch lever and shift. When you let off the throttle, the engine decelerates. Same thing fixes popping when you shift...decel enleanment.
I don't think I'd arbitrarily increase VE's 10% across the board or increase displacement 10"on a stock engine, but yes, both are telling the ECM the motor is pulling in more air than it really is.