Well, after much deliberation have decided on SERT for my 08 SG but do NOT want to have it dynoed. Does anybody else offer canned maps besides Latus HD? Have V&H true dual headers, SE A/C, and still deciding on either Reinhart slip ons or Rush slip ons w/2"baffle. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

The SERT CD comes with maps. I don't think they have a map for true duals, but you could try one that is as close to your setup that you can find. Max out the CLB (This is only what I would do and may not be correct)temporarily to make sure you got enough fuel, and follow the manual for tuneing. Hook up a laptop and do some data runs, or as I understand it the new super SERT has the ability to record data onto the dongle. Then you can make small adjustments as necessary. In light of some of the comments on the forum I would then consider trying to back off the CLB tables a little.

There are at least a couple of guys on here that seem to know their stuff, and they are always very helpful, and may be able to assist you through the process.

You may also wish to consider waiting a little while to see what TTS bring out as the (for want of a better term) non-HD SERT. As I understand it they supplied the software (and maybe the hardware, don't know) for the HD SERT so should be producing a good product. It may be a much better product, but we will have to wait and see.

I am just an enthuastic amature and I managed to get my bike running good without a dyno, but then with just an AC and slipons I found a map that shouldn't have been far off. I think the trick is to only change as few areas of the map at a time so that you can see what works and what dosent. Keep records of what you do. I made good use of the knock sensor activity to show areas which were lean or to far advanced. I managed to get everything running well without touching the timeing, but like I said someone had done most of the work for me on the canned map.

If I was looking for more radical changes I think I would have invested in an exhaust sniffer, and set the VE spot on as described in the manual, which would I think make the whole process a lot easier. If you havent seen a manual for the SERT basically you set the AFR to a known across the board, say 13.5 : 1 for arguements sake ( I cant remember what it suggests in the manual). You then adjust the VE tables to achieve that AFR, which means that the AFR tables will be correct and calibrated for how your engine breaths. You may then adjust then AFR as you wish and know that the values are correct.

A good tuner would without a doubt get it running even better, but its good enough for me. It runs strong, dosent pop on decel, runs cool, and I still get a tad over 40 mpg (US). The plugs look fine, and there is very little knock retard activity. I have to assume that all is well.

 

If you want your bike to run right and cant find a really close map you will want to have it tuned by a skilled tuner if you get the SERT. Doc1 posted the questions you will want to ask any tuner before you buy dyno time. Also, make sure they are willing to give you a copy of your dyno map in case you ever need to re-load. The canned maps will work but you won't be satisfied with the results because they are made around 100% HD parts and other parts react differently. Also, wait until you have 2-3000 miles on the engine because it will change as it settles in. I had mine done at 1000 which was too early.