Mr. Clean a lot of things can affect the temperature. You know like if you live in a busy neighborhood, just cruising down the street slowly to your house out of respect for your neighbors can bring your temperature up without any real air to cool it down. Definitely sitting idling while you open the door, take your gear off and grab the thermometer will make it hotter too.

The main thing is to run your test exactly the same way as you did without the IED's. Then checking the bike under the same exact circumstances with the IED's. You should definitely see a difference.

 

OK, I renistalled the IED's. Today's outside temperature 78 degrees, 2 degrees warmer than yesterday's test without the IED's. Rode the same route, tried to ride at about the same speeds with small variation due to traffic. I measured the temps at the metal base of the spark plug and at each headbolt on each cylinder. The results show the range of temps on each cylinder. Also, on the front cylinder the lowest temperature was at the front headbolt and on the rear cylinder the lowest temperature was at the rear headbolt. The highest temps on each cylinder were on the two headbolts nearest where the cylinders came together.

The bike seems to run smoother and is more responsive with the IED's than without them.

Here are the before and after results:

1. Stopping after a 55mph ride with occasional brisk acceleration-
W/OIED'sFront Cyl 310-315 degrees, Rear Cyl 330-337 degrees
With IED's 285-290310-322

2. Stopping at a traffic light, riding one more block and checking temps-
W/OIED'sFront Cyl 325-330 degrees, Rear Cyl 345-355
With IED's 298-310320-328

3. Stopping at the security gate in my community, riding 1/2 mile home at 25-30mph
W/OIED'sFront Cyl 350-355 degrees, Rear Cyl 380-385 degrees
With IED's 330-340 355-365

Conclusion: The IED's help. The front cylinder benefits more than the rear cylinder. Even though my readings were a fair amount higher than those that cruiser 85257 and barrygreen experienced, I am convinced that the IED's are helping, butI think I may need to do more to lower the temps and the A/F ratio.

With the stock exhaust and the SE Air Cleaner, I had my bike dynoed and the A/F ratio was running around 15.1 at cruising speeds (part throttle). If the IED's only enrichen the mixtue 0.5, I should now be getting around 14.6 or maybe 14.7 with the SE Slip-ons I added since the dyno run. That means the IED's brought my bike with the add-ons back to stock A/F ratio.

I have to decide whether to have it dynoed again to see what the A/F ratio is. Maybe I need to have the Stage I download installed without the IED's on the bike. That should bring my A/F back down to 14.7 from 15.1. Then if Ireinstall the IED's hopefully the A/F would then be loweredto around 14.2.

I am trying to lower the A/F number to around 14.2 without adding a SERT, Fuel Pak or PCIII or some other device.

I am happy with the way the bike runs - I do not need or want more power, I just want it to run cooler.

 

Glad to see your headed in the right direction....cooler. It may very well be the difference in outside temperature. Your running in temps close to 80 degrees, while Barry and I were running in temps at least 20 degrees cooler if not more.

Don't waste your money on the stage one download, it does nothing as far as lowering the AFR. Basically it raises your rev limiter is about all it does.

If your not interested in performance than my suggestion is take off the SE Air Kit and put your stock air kit back on. This will make it run a little richer. Also check your O2 sensors and make sure they are tight. Any leakage can cause them to operate falsely.

The theory behind the IED is not that it simply lowers your current AFR by .5. The lowest AFR that your stock ECU can handle with the Narrow band sensors is 14.2. Stephen at Nightrider computed the voltage necessary to force your ECU to operate at it's lowest closed loop AFR of 14.2. So that is where your Bike should be in closed loop.

You can do the same trick by buying a $500 Race Tuner and setting your closed loop Bias tables at 798. This brings your AFR down to 14.2 in closed loop. Stephen has done this for us except its $431 cheaper.

There are other possible differences. Are you running synthetic oil?

What do your plugs look like?

The differences in Temperatures you got are closer to what nightrider advertises his IED's to do. I still think the 80 degree weather has a lot to do with it.

Nice job testing the IED's....Thanks

 

Mr. Clean any new results?

 

I've had them on my bike for about 1700 miles now & so far I'm impressed. Before I installed them I was running a Big Sucker intake, Rush slipons, and using a V&H Fuel Pak for EFI management. (Your basic aftermarket Stage 1 setup.) After messing around with different configurations I'm now back to the stock air filter, Rush slipons, and Nightrider IED's for fuel enrichment. (Basically a stock bike with slightly richer air-fuel mix & better sound.) No changes in performance or MPG from one configuration to the next, so I don't miss anything.

I posted this awhile back in another thread, but figured it's relevant here so I'll repost.
I ran the Fuel Pak for about 6 mos/6000 miles. I removed the Fuel Pak and ran on the stock ECM for about a week before I got the IED's just to refamiliarize myself with the stock bike. Then I put the IED's on and have been riding it for about 3 months/1700 miles. My bike configuration is stock engine, stock air filter, Rush slipons with 1.5" baffles, and my impressions (no thermometer readings, just riding impressions) are as follows:

Stock ECM- engine runs good, but very warm. At steady slow speed (<25 mph) part throttle operation the engine has a slight "surge" which is likely attributable to lean AFR. (Surge has been there since new, but this has also been the case with every post-1990 bike I've ever owned.)

Fuel Pak- engine seems to run the coolest with the FP. However, engine occasionally hiccups when cold (not often, maybe once every few hundred miles) and while the sub-25mph "surge" felt with stock ECM is minimized, it can still be felt on occasion.

IED's- Runs cooler than stock and slightly less cool overall than the FP. However, should work as good as or better than FP when stuck in traffic as IED's alter AFR in all throttle conditions associated with closed-loop mode (including idle) and FP only alters AFR off-idle. IED's offer seamless integration (can't even tell they're there) with no hiccups, and sub 25 mph "surge" is completely gone.
Have noticed no significant change in fuel mileage with IED's as compared to FP or stock.

My opinion is that they are worth the money and work as advertised. The are only slightly less effective than a dedicated aftermarket EFI controller, but cost 1/3 to 1/10th as much. They also don't pose any of the problems associated with the aftermarket systems since you are using the stock ECM. They are easy to install, and just as easy to remove if you have a problem with something & need to take the bike in for warranty work.
It's a simple solution to the lean AFR problem for those with stock engines or light modifications (Stage 1 or less) who just want to richen the mix a bit for cooler engine temps & longevity. For this purpose IMO it's a good option.

 

Lost1 great post. My '07 FLHX has the ied wires, stock airbox with k&n filter, screamin eagle street legal mufflers, and stage 1 ecm download. Can't wait for the snow to melt so I can try out the ied's.

 

Good post Lost 1.

I've tried a bunch of stuff and spent far too much money. This was on two different bikes. A Cobra FI2000, PCIII, Race Tuner, Terminal Velocity II, and the IED's by Nightrider.

You can't beat the IED's for as little as they cost. Definitely cool the engine, fuel mileage stays good, throttle response is improved, and it made my exhaust louder. I'm thinking about taking my K&N 3909 off and going back to the stock air box to richen it up a tad. I was even thinking of trying the stock mufflers again.

Question? Are the stock mufflers identical, or is the left muffler more restricted than the right?

Thanks for sharing your experience. Great write up.

 

I have had the thing on order now for over 3 weeks from J&P. THey told me 7 - 14 days back then. I am seriously considering canceling the order and doing the voltage divider thing on my O2 sensors.

I am anxious to hear how your bike runs if you put the new TV2 on your bike when you get it. I am beginning to think that all one really needs to do is to richen the running up a bit if all you are doing is putting on a set of different mufflers. Might even hold true for a slightly less restrictive air filter too.

 

Cruiser, I'm not 100% sure if the stockers are identical, but IIRC they were.
I'm running Rush mufflers with 1.5" baffles, which are the smallest & quietest Rush has. They are perfect for me as I get the deep Rush sound (especially after a couple hundred miles & they break in) without the booming volume of the larger baffles.
I tried a Big Sucker on my bike, but found it offered no performance gain or anything else so I took it off. The stocker flows more than enough for my bike & my riding style, so the Big Sucker will be going on Ebay soon.
My bike had a problem with pinging at highway speed last summer even with the Fuel Pack (doesn't ping in cool weather) so I'm going to see how things go this summer with the IED's. If the hot-weather pinging persists I'll take it in & have the timing download done for free from my dealer...

 

RC, cancel the TVII. The IED's will work better with your Mods and keep the motor cooler.

Because HD is coming out with a new Race Tuner, you can get older ones off Ebay cheap. The only update you need is a $20 CD. I almost had a Race Tuner today for $200 and blew it by waiting too long. With the Race Tuner you can load a base map and change your closed loop bias table and richen the bike up plenty to run great with your mods.