guys,,, got my 08 ultra out,,, got the IED'S sitting here,,,, I wanna ride some before installing so I can see the difference,,,, I was looking at the rear CO2 connector,,,,man!!,,, its tucked down in there,!!
looks like it would be a trick to get it apart, then where to run the wire??
the front is zip tied to the cross piece on the front down tubes,,, where did ya loop the IED????

 

Own a '08 Ultra Classic. I installed a Roger McEwen oil temp gauge in the fairing to get rid of the ambient air temp gauge. To my surprise I found that the hottest temps I see is when I am running down the highway at 75 MPH. It goes up to 230 degrees. So I installed the O2 IED's thinking the reason it is running hot is due to a lean condition. After putting the IED's in, it seems to run slightly better (throttle response) but the temp at highway speed went right back to 230 after running 10-15 miles at 70-75 MPH. Air temp was about the same, lower 70's. I will say that I don't think the IED's helped with the heat. What I see is that an oil cooler would probably help my situation since there is plenty of air flow over the cooler at highway speeds. My theory is that the oil gets hot from passing thru the heads and the heat builds in the oil because there is nothing there to cool it down. Seems like everyone is measuring head temps and I am zeroing in on oil temp. If a head that is 330 degrees heats oil to 230 degrees, then I imagine a head that is 300 degrees will also be capable of heating the oil to 230 degrees.

 

On the front I ran my IEDalong the front frame down pieces. The one furthest away from the pipe. I ran the wire from my front pipe 02 sensor up the frame down part closest to the pipe, ran the wire across the brace between the two front framesand then plugged it into the IED that's running along the frame part that's furthest from the pipe.

I'm running the BUB 7's so my back cylinder pipe is going to be different than yours. Make sure that you do not bend the part in the middle. The wires at each end fine.

The back one I ran in front of my starter. and then tie wraped it back to the stock wiring towards the ECM. I should take some pictures. It's easier to see than explain.

Getting it apart is all that bad. use a flat bladed screwdriver and hold the little clip up as you take them apart.

 

Well I've thought about itand and kind of deceided what I'm going to do with the Fuel Pak.

I'm just going to leave it for now. I am going to put the IED's back on. I haven't gotten a chance to ride it since it went in. Am I dissapointed with spending the $270 for something that may not fix an lean condition that may have beenjust be a defect in the pipe or heatshield?? A little.

Will it hurt it? I doubt it. It maybe overkill, but it's in and I can't see it hurting. I never had a problem with how it ran. The IED's made it better. The IED's will look after the closed portion of the system and the fuel pak can look after the open part. Best of both worlds.

Now the field testing is done with Rider57...... I'm going to sit tight and wait for the results. Now if the weather would co-operate, I'll get sane again.

 

3rd ride with the ied's and after coming home from work...about 20 miles..the check engine light came on. Checked the connections and all seems ok. Too late at night to fire it up again..will clear the code and see what happens tomorrow, i guess. Hope it's nothing...these things really seem to make a difference in the bikes performance....

 

Try running the codes to see where the ECM thinks the problem is? I can't remember what you were running. Is it the stock ECM? I had that happen on my 02 Heritage. Ran the codes using the signal light switches and lights and it pointed out to me that it was the voltage regulator. It might not be the IED's? If it is, the codes will tell you about an 02 sensor failure. It should even tell which one.

Did the bike run any differently? The tell tale signs of a voltage regulator would be:
1. Idle a little higher

2. speedo would start acting funny

3. your odometer would blank out.

Did anything thing else act weird like I describe above?

 

bama, Thats about right on for oil temp. We were addressing the heat from the exhaust.
Oil does get heated by the engine. Convection does this. And, it's the whole engine doing it's thing.
You are on the right path with the oil cooler. An oil cooler should add a little margin of safety to oil breakdown. Most of us I am sure are using syn oil a few may still be using the regular stuff.

 

Happened just as i pulled into the garage...bike ran fine and nothing out of the ordinary. Am running the Stage1 download and IED'S with a K&N and SE2's. Cleared the code this morning and will take it out for a short ride to see what happens. How do you read the code...i thought you needed a device to plug into the ECM for that...is there a way to check the actual code without?...and do i have to contact the dealer to figure out what the code is? Thanks for the help!

 

I ordered a set of the O2 IEDs about 3 weeks ago. Ever since then I'd either been out of town on business or the weather conspired to only allow a short ride. I am very happy with the way the bike runs with the IEDs, smoother, cooler, and the low rpm/high gear chatter the '07s are famous for is better. I was anxious to see how the gas mileage would be affected.

I was able put a few miles on my FLHTC the past 3 days with the O2 IED's installed. About 1300 miles total, a good mix of interstate, 4 lane state highways and 2 lane back roads. Much of this was in Louisiana where the speed limits are significantly lower than Texas once you get off the Interstate.

My last few tanks of gas went 41,45,42,46,45,41 mpg. The last one today was 39 mpg running 75 mph into the wind. Conditions ranged from 40 degrees and rain to 90 degrees and windy, with Sunday being an absolutely perfect day to ride.

This is the best mileage I've gotten with this bike. I think that it's running so much better with the IEDs because it's more efficient and getting better mileage as a result.
My bike is an '07 FLHTC, the mods are:
D&D Police Interceptor slip ons
spark plugs that are one range cooler
Nightrider O2 IED's.

There is no stage 1 breather, no flashes or downloads.
One day I swapped off and rode about 75 miles on an '06 Road Glide with a 95 inch Stage II kit on it, big bore, HD heads, and HD cams. Both of us thought the power was almost equal between the two bikes. In fact there is VERY LITTLE difference between a Road Glide and an Electra Glide. Wind protection is almost identical, the feel of the bike is identical (I do have a Road Glide seat on my bike) and the handling is identical. The biggest difference is that the location of the gauges takes some getting used to, and I kept hunting for 6th gear on the Road Glide <G>.

 

Something I found that may or may not be of interest.
The IR thermometers that some of you are using is a good indicator of checking the temp changes.
While testing I found, in all instances, that the IR devices are reading what is called "skin effect:.
Whats being read is the thin layer of heated air surrounding the point being measured.
In testing I read the bolt head on one bike with the IR and it measured 297F.
I inserted the hard temp bolt, a bolt with a temp sensor embedded in the shaft, and measured 271F.

The hard temp bolts are used to eliminate error during the tests we run and are the only accepted methods employed by the lab I work in.