Diebolt you did say the pictures were taken after you washed the bike. What did you wash it with?

 

cruiser,

I used a sample of Harley's Sunwash Concentrate.

 

You know its hard to judge by a picture, but the first thought I had when I looked at it was soap and water stains.

You mentioned riding through the desert. I saw something that looked similar after riding along the Beach Road going to Cape Hateras. It was because of the salt in the ocean spray.

 

It washed off with 409 Cleaner and left no trace. Must have been some dried up soap.

I still want to have them check out rear heat shield for heat damage.

I know that having the lower fairings will make the engine run hotter but should the rear cylinder be 60° hotter than the front one.

 

Rider57... I talked to Steve today and he told me you might be the best person to ask about the fuel Pak. He's under the impression that the fuel pak may have nothing to do with the bike in the closed loop position. Do you have any thoughts on it?

I'm kind of confused about that. Why would the dealers be installing these to help with the heat and leanessin the closed loop settings? If that was the case, I should've left it with just the stage 1? What's the point? Once we get above a certain throttle position it switches to open loop and then there's no problem with the AFR? What use would the Fuel Pak be if it only operated in open loop mode?

Does V&H Fuel Pak have to comply with EPA regs as well? Steve thinks it may? Any literature or results that you may be able to point me to on the subject?The web site says for race applications only and not legal in California.

The other questions you asked before. It was never stock. I took delivery of it with the Stage 1 download, high flow a/c, and the bub 7's installed. When it warms up, I'll have to find someone around here with a completly stock 08 RG and have him follow me around, and then take a thermo reading of the 2 bikes. Even 1 with the Stage 1 will do for a bench mark.

The mod of the pipe was for sound and future performancemods. I wanted a pipe to handle anything I may throw at it later. I also requested the Stage 1 set up as I've been pretty happy with it on the 02. Later did I find out that they eliminated the race downloads for the 08's. Fell outside EPA regs.

Steve figures I'll be more than happy in about 2 weeks. He thinks it'll work "extremely" well for my application and system.An added bounuswith the fuel pak on. Head work and Andrews 54 cams are later when the warranty expirers.

 

The temperature difference will be higher. It is being blocked by the front cylinder. The lowers will restrict the air flow back there as it does on you legs. Even your legs can be like a lower as well.

 

Any add-on that is capableof producing emissions beyond those set by the EPA and is part of or replaces the ECM, ECU must be compliant.
The FP has nothing to do nor can do in closed loop mode.
Something to think about is this. The stock ECU is capable of doing anything that an add on device can do plus a whole lot more.
The same for the exhaust systems on FLH and FLT models.

FP and Stage 1, some sort of overkill I guess.
Like I stated earlier, get back to basics.

I'm running pretty much stock and eating TC88's for lunch.

Get rid of the FP, sell it or hold on to it or later if you like.
The stock and SE1 downloads are fully tunable. Yes, you can make the stock map look and rum like a SE1 download. But that would'nt get your bike in the shop now would it?

 

Just some General Information..
Most of you are using IR thermometers. While they are very accurate, obtaining accurate readings under the exact conditions are not.
Be willing to accept readings of +/- 20 degrees.
The only way to get the best readings on what is happening is to monitor exhaust temps inside the exhaust tubes 10.5 inches from the flange. Something I am sure most of you will not want to do.
A cyl head temp gauge like you would find on some private aircraft is pretty accurate and will deliver constant and truer readings.

I find this from working in the lab. I rely on my test equipment because of the calibrations we have to do before every test.

When we test, we start from a base test. This is the stock configuration for 99% of the vehicles we test. The other 1% are complete custom systems with no compliance test ever done on them.
I would tell everyone to start there, stock. Stock everything.
Compare everything after, to this stock test. Refer to it after anything you do to your engine. This includesintake, exhaust and even changing where you buy your gas, as well as the octane. You would be suprised in the difference from 91 to 94 and 97 octane.
Want to see a real difference, go to the local small airport and get 5 gallons of AV gas (110), try that! It wont hurt the engine, burns super clean and fast, is unleaded so it wont harm the O2 sensors or CARB system cats.

A word about dyno runs.
The dyno run is only as good as the operator. Likewise, a dyno run should ALWAY be done with an emissions tube. Dont waste your $ with anything less. This is the minimum.

Soak the engine. This means get the engine to the operating temp for 20 minutes, cool down for 10 minutes, run again for 10 minutes.
The test run on the dyno has to take place within 3 minutes after that. That's the best and tested way to get consistant an usable data.

Upgrades! What ever it may mean to you, I dont know. But here are my steps.
1. Clean up those ports, intake has very little to gain from thisas you want turbulance to help mix the air and fuel. Matching the flange to the port may be it. Exhaust ports are something to look at. A good matching and polishing job could net you HP that cant be matched for the bucks($) A complete head job with pockets is well worth the money you may spend for for things that wont come close to the HP you will gain.
2. CAMS. This has to be step 2 for me. A SE 211 cam will give you HP in the range of a full SE Stage 2 on a TC88 engine and real close to the same gain on the TC96.
3. Throttle housings. There are a few aftermarket throttle housing out there that can put the stock to shame. They cost, but they work.
4 Exhaust. I only go here after step 1 and 2 are done to my satisfaction. Some like to go for the sound, some performance. Hey, it's your dance. Do what you want, but lets not lose perspective here. You can undue everything you have paid for thus far, so try and match it up. After all, it's all part of the whole system.
Above all. Ride safe and have fun, dance with the ladies and smile.
Do it ALL right and smile for a long, long time.

 

Excellent Post Rider57.

 

I finally installed my IEDs. First I did a stage 1 download after doing a little reading and finding that while it will not richin the mixture it will change the profile. Then I did S&S SPO slip ons which I like alot. Bike did run differantly with the stage 1, slighly rougher idle and and a noticable but slightly better throttle response. SPOs are perfect for me sound wise but with just the stage 1 download I had a noticable lag in throttle response. Then I added the IEDs and all is well, got a hit n git throttle now and it feels like it rev's a little quicker, overall well worth the 70 bucks. Only thing I did noitce is that my idle is now about 1100 rpm, no big deal but it's an 08 so i can't adjust it. The SPOs are a large volume, almost stright thru slip on and I think if I go with a hi-flo AC with the SPOs I might need a tuner. It's still darn cold in ol' Barneveld NY (low 30s when I ride to work) so I really havn't checked temp yet. This has been a great thread and I thank all you guys.