Nightrider O2 IED's - Field Test
#232
#233
RE: Nightrider O2 IED's - Field Test
I just got done reading this entire thread. Great info!
There's one thing I think that has not been clarified here. When installing a stage 1 download, whatever the changes in the tune might be, they are obviously intended to compensate for the increased airflow the air filter and pipes add. In open loop operation, the mixture would have to be richened up in order to meet whatever the Moco felt was best. After going through several stock and stage 1 dyno's here, the open loop full throttle afr's seem to be at about 13.8 (which is proper for best power). I don't see any benefit in getting a dyno tune for full throttle tuning.
If you were to add a filter and pipes without doing either a tune or the stage 1 download, it stands to reason that your afr's WILL be leaner than ideal. I don't know how far off they would be, and unless somebody here gets full throttle afr's checked on a dyno, we'd only be guesing. I certainly would not personally feel comfortable running an stage 1 air filter without a tune or download.
As long as you match the air filter to the ECM program (stock for stock and stage 1 for stage 1 download), it stands to reason that you'd be getting as good a running bike as you could without getting a custom tune...
So far, this seems to be the best scenario for people like me that just want a better running bike and don't want the hassle and $ of a dyno tune.
There's one thing I think that has not been clarified here. When installing a stage 1 download, whatever the changes in the tune might be, they are obviously intended to compensate for the increased airflow the air filter and pipes add. In open loop operation, the mixture would have to be richened up in order to meet whatever the Moco felt was best. After going through several stock and stage 1 dyno's here, the open loop full throttle afr's seem to be at about 13.8 (which is proper for best power). I don't see any benefit in getting a dyno tune for full throttle tuning.
If you were to add a filter and pipes without doing either a tune or the stage 1 download, it stands to reason that your afr's WILL be leaner than ideal. I don't know how far off they would be, and unless somebody here gets full throttle afr's checked on a dyno, we'd only be guesing. I certainly would not personally feel comfortable running an stage 1 air filter without a tune or download.
As long as you match the air filter to the ECM program (stock for stock and stage 1 for stage 1 download), it stands to reason that you'd be getting as good a running bike as you could without getting a custom tune...
So far, this seems to be the best scenario for people like me that just want a better running bike and don't want the hassle and $ of a dyno tune.
#234
RE: Nightrider O2 IED's - Field Test
ORIGINAL: CKinAZ
If you were to add a filter and pipes without doing either a tune or the stage 1 download, it stands to reason that your afr's WILL be leaner than ideal. I don't know how far off they would be, and unless somebody here gets full throttle afr's checked on a dyno, we'd only be guesing. I certainly would not personally feel comfortable running an stage 1 air filter without a tune or download.
As long as you match the air filter to the ECM program (stock for stock and stage 1 for stage 1 download), it stands to reason that you'd be getting as good a running bike as you could without getting a custom tune...
So far, this seems to be the best scenario for people like me that just want a better running bike and don't want the hassle and $ of a dyno tune.
If you were to add a filter and pipes without doing either a tune or the stage 1 download, it stands to reason that your afr's WILL be leaner than ideal. I don't know how far off they would be, and unless somebody here gets full throttle afr's checked on a dyno, we'd only be guesing. I certainly would not personally feel comfortable running an stage 1 air filter without a tune or download.
As long as you match the air filter to the ECM program (stock for stock and stage 1 for stage 1 download), it stands to reason that you'd be getting as good a running bike as you could without getting a custom tune...
So far, this seems to be the best scenario for people like me that just want a better running bike and don't want the hassle and $ of a dyno tune.
Let say:
Stock......AFR 14.7
Pipes and Stage 1 A/C without Download........15.1(est.)
Pipes, Stage 1 with download.......14.7
Pipes, Stage 1 with download and IED's.........14.1
The number are just a guess, but for an example....this will do.
#235
#236
RE: Nightrider O2 IED's - Field Test
I don't know?? I thought it was to be true that it could only get 14.1 in a closed loop config.?? Did you try it cruiser? I wouldn't think so? It might think it's too rich and put you right back at 14.1 (or what the ECM thinks is 14.7)
That's what I think will happen.
That's what I think will happen.
#238
#239
RE: Nightrider O2 IED's - Field Test
Ok Fellas,
My testing is done.
The idea of playing with the Clyinder Head Temp sensor and what it reports to the ECU didn't impact the AFR enough to make it worth while so I would not mess with that.
The relocated IAT gave me a difference of .3. It was easy to do and cheap.
The home made IED (resistors) cost me $3.00 total ($1.50 for a pack of 5, I used all 10K, 2 in series for the 20K and 1 for the series - paralell) ,and worked as I thought.
The end result is I can run the bike at upto about 60to 75 % throttle and stay in closed loop resulting in 13.8:1 AFR and head temps run 210 front and 215 rear. Thats about the same as my 97 RK. The best part is, I cant feel the heat sitting at a light anymore!
I'm happy with that. I only did this to see if I could save some money vs. buying the whoule LC1 kit for this bike also.
You may not get the same exact results I got but I'm willing to bet that it will be damn close.
Remember, dont soldier the connections, use crimp connectors. Make sure you dont short the pigtails of the resistors together. They will fit in the OEM O2 tubing if your careful.
In short, you can do this and not screw something up as it can be undone with out harm to your system.
Have fun gang, and ride.
My testing is done.
The idea of playing with the Clyinder Head Temp sensor and what it reports to the ECU didn't impact the AFR enough to make it worth while so I would not mess with that.
The relocated IAT gave me a difference of .3. It was easy to do and cheap.
The home made IED (resistors) cost me $3.00 total ($1.50 for a pack of 5, I used all 10K, 2 in series for the 20K and 1 for the series - paralell) ,and worked as I thought.
The end result is I can run the bike at upto about 60to 75 % throttle and stay in closed loop resulting in 13.8:1 AFR and head temps run 210 front and 215 rear. Thats about the same as my 97 RK. The best part is, I cant feel the heat sitting at a light anymore!
I'm happy with that. I only did this to see if I could save some money vs. buying the whoule LC1 kit for this bike also.
You may not get the same exact results I got but I'm willing to bet that it will be damn close.
Remember, dont soldier the connections, use crimp connectors. Make sure you dont short the pigtails of the resistors together. They will fit in the OEM O2 tubing if your careful.
In short, you can do this and not screw something up as it can be undone with out harm to your system.
Have fun gang, and ride.