Fastbagger: Thanks for the information. The K&N filter is a bit pricy for just an air filter. Since I already have the SE a/c,I think I will install it again when I get the Stage I download.

Rider57: The temps were measuredon the heads at the base of the sparkplugs and at each headbolt. Due to the fact that an infrared thermometer can give erroneous readings if the beam is pointed at shiny objects, I also took the temps between the sparkplug and each headbolt.

Looking forward to hearing your results with the 20K and 10K resistors.

 

Rider57 -
I am also into electronics (my job in the automotive prototype testing) and you are correct in using the 10K for R1 and 20K for R2 values. You will find with a completly stock bike you should get 14.1 using these values. Of course this is strictly for closed loop operation. You will basically converting the .750 VDC averaged from the sensor to .500 VDC to the ECU. Using 10K/20K Ohm resistors increase the accuracy as opposed to just using 1 Ohm and 2 Ohm resistors. So long as the open loop fuel curves of the stock system don't go too lean their is no reason to do any more mods ON a STOCK bike. Granted you could also measure the resistance for any given temperature at the engine temp sensor and off set that with the appropriate resistance to increase fueling across the entire fuel curve under all MAP conditions. You could basically tweak all you own fueling as you please for maybe $5.00 if you have to buy resistors. Better yet use the appropriate pot (VR) on the temp sensor to adjust your fueling as it runs. Once your happy, measure the resistance and piggyback it into the system...done.
Friday I will be putting in my order for a '08 EG Classic in Pacific Blue but I will have to wait two months for it to come in....WAAAAA! Oh, well time to build 2/3 voltage deviders and find a supplier for the OE Delphi male and female O2 connectors. Any ideas?

 

Ok. Test complete. The result were as expcted, 14.1:1 The air density played a factor in the previous readings as well. have some RinehartTD's on the way so it will be back to testing on the stock bike when it gets a little warmer. The RG is perfect, that wont be changed just yet. My friend has a 08 FLHX with a TMax and it gave a "Check Engine" after 50 miles. We took it offf, reset the ECU with the Scan-a-lyzer and reloaded the base map. Then we did the 20K and 10K. Bike runs better than ever and he is oe happy dude.
I have a used state emissions test set that is no longer used in this area but the unit allows for me to look at the AFR with a known calibrated system and it read 14.2:1 on my stock bike and on his FLHX it reads 13.9:1.
I will be looking into the reason for the difference but I am inclined to beleive that it is the difference in the electrical differences on the circuits involved.
All this resistor testing start in Sept 2006 for me and I have learned alot. Still have my notes so I can share them with whomever.
One other thing that bears mentioning. I disconnected the IAT and installed another one in the AC backing plate. The engine sees the cooler intake air and as a result the bike ran richer than the 10\20K kit should have allowed. I will hook it back into the system once the temps around here get to 75 and above.

 

So, would the bike run 14.2:1 if you were to put on the power commander resistor caps and leave the power commander off?

 

Rider 57:

I am quite curious about the LC1's? Are these the ones offered by Nightrider?

My understanding of the Nightrider LC1 package is that it allows you to set the AFR for closed loop. I see in your post where you have multiple settings. Was this achieved with the LC1? Can you elaborate more as to how this works and how you were able to do this? In laymans terms would be helpful for me.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Fastbagger
I would have to say no. I beleive that the PC3 uses a fixed resistance value that supplies return signal voltage below the say .450 Volt threshold of were the fuel table in the ECU goes out of closed loop. The caps basically force the ECU to run in constant open loop operation forcing the ECU to referance those fuel tables instead of the closed loop fuel tables. They basically then modify the one fuel table in the ECU rather than two. Open and closed loop fuel tables is basically two tables in one. Open loop is basically the base table while if the correct condition are met, it will jump to another fuel table for the closed loop. The closed loop table has a very small bias to adjust to - hence this 14.1 to 14.9 A/F you keep hearing about, thanks to the narrow band O2. The lower the signal return voltage from the O2 the richer the bike will run. But going beyond the .450 V will not net you any fatter a fuel ratio in closed loop. This stuff takes experience and years of working with different fueling strageties and components and interfaces to understand to the max. Trust me, I have been doing it in the prototype automotive world for years now and I learn new crap all the time. I have also learnt that HD uses the most simple and archaic EFI system out there. It's on par with your typical first gen. MPI systems on cars from the mid / late 1980's. I'm not knocking it though it's fine for a bike, but it does need some more refinement.

 

Thanks for explanation Bill Hilly.

 

Anyone know if this product will work as good on an '06 as it does on an '07 and '08.

Thanks,

hdrider02

 

I would think any Delphi fuel injection with O2 sensors it would work with. But to be sure give Steve a call and ask, or email him.

 

Rider57,

I am curious as to what the IAT is in the stock AC backing plate that you changed out. If on an 08 Ultrawith theNightrider02 IED's installed and a change out of the the IAT would this be a step toward keeping it almost stock but enrichening somewhat the AF mixture and a better cooler air flow?

Most of what you have accomplished is way beyond my expertise level but am trying to pick out a few simple things that might enhance and cool down the beast.

Thanks