YES,take them off,both of them before the service,don't take chances with your warranty.

 

I did not know this. How would I go about finding out if this is the case on my bike? How do you activate it? Not that I think I need to use it, but it would be nice to know.

 

Please correct me ifI have missed something here. But these things only work at idle at all other times it is just the same as not having them?

 

No, TOP. They are working all the time except in open loopmode.
CSM Andy

 

Smitty, they'll be influencing the afr during closed loop operation. Which is below 4000 rpm or 50% throttle according to previous posts if I remeber correctly. Basically under all cruising and moderate riding conditions.

 

ThanksI am not new to this but it was some what confusing when view with other info.
My 07 Rg seems at 13,000 milesto be doing ok on the heat so far andI have no plans to do stage 1 on it just not worth it and really not needed. A bit to quiet but if I want to wake everyone up I'll ride my fatboy.
Iwas considering a TFI I do know they a simlpler and less touchy than the PC111.
I may give this XIED a try. mainly because we have to play with them.
I have been taking temp readings on mine from day one as a learning thing.
I am not convinced the head is the right place to be checking it. Go out to your car after it has been running around town check it right at the plug.
All the reading I have come up with run in line with what I have read here. running true 100% sny oil did drop temps some

 

if you had it downloaded you would know the rear cyl shuts down when the bike gets real hot from idleing it kicks back in as soon as you hit the gas at all. Dealer will do one download for it free it you want I do not know anyone that has stayed with it.
The 08's you can set it with out a down load and turn it off and on

 

Well, I have just over 10k on the bike now and I can't say I have ever noticed the rear cylinder turning off and I have been in slower than parade traffic in rush hour getting out of downtown Chi town. Would there be more info on this in the service manual?

 

I've been following this thread for quite some time, so I thought I'd add my experiences.

I have been riding Harleys for quite a while, and have done extensive mods on all of them (I used to build race cars and motors). My previous bike was an '04 FLHRCI that got a 95", head work, cams, DOherty PP, V&H, PCIII, pistons, etc...that ran very well. My point is that I know the basics of these motors. I also know to monitor spark plugs for a good real-time indicator as to what is happenning in the combustion chamber.

More to the point - I sold the RKC and now have a new '08 FLTRI that I will keep basically stock until I see if this Chinese crankshaft stays in one piece, or decides to "twist", take out the oil pump, and grenade the motor (known problem). When riding the new RG home I immediately noticed the extreme heat being generated by this new '96 motor. I live in central Texas, so heat is a major consideration in these air cooled motors here. After several hundred miles I pulled the plugs, and was not suprised to see them coated in a white ash, indicating a very lean condition. Wanting to keep the warranty, and my motor, intact for a while, I researched the heat issue and found the Nightrider site. I purchased a set of the IED's, gaped the plugs to .040, and rode a few more hundred miles . Pleasantly, the plugs were showing a much better combustion environment, the motor ran better in many ways, and my right leg had quit sizzling. I considered this an acceptable way to save my motor and warranty, since the IED's could easily be removed for any visits to the dealer.

So along comes Steve with the "better" XIED's. Not being able to leave a motor undisturbed, I installed the XIED's, and a Ness Big Sucker Stage 1. I selected this air cleaner because it has the chrome 1 piece backing plate with integral vents, and it flows a little more cfm. Knowing that more air = leaner combustion condition, I hoped that Steve's XIED's might "equal" things out. (still stock exhaust). I ran several hundred miles with the "new" setup, mostly 40 - 70 mph with very little idling, none in the final 40 miles, and checked the plugs again at the end of the ride. And to answer the obvious - yes I shut the motot off immediately after stopping, it did not idle for than 15 seconds.

Here's where it gets interesting - the plugs were DARK - not damp, but certainly indicating a rich AFR. With the new AC, I was expecting a semi-lean or good AFR. The bike ran good, but I'm not sure it was better than the IED's with stock AC. Logic would say that since the XIED's allow the bike to run a little richer than the IED's, an AC that flows a little more air (leaner), would offset the richer condition, and the bike should run better, or at the least not richer than it was. Mileage dropped from approx. 45mpg to 42mpg, so the XIED's were doing their job. I was riding solo, so I don't know if the exhaust "smelled" rich.

I found this to be interesting since getting these new motors to run "rich" without completely bypassing the O2 sensors seems to be impossible.

The next step will be slip-ons to see if that will "lean" out the AFR a little more.

Thanks for all of the great information everyone has disseminated in this thread.

Bill
Austin

 

I got my Xieds last Wednesday. Easy install. My bike has the SE slipons, SE AC , and the stage 1 down load. Starting the bike after installing the Xieds I noticed it seemed to rev quicker or bark when I hit the gas. A little different sound. Peppy throttle response. It runs cooler. I had a little problem with popping that problem has been reduced. The bike would idle a 2000 rpms when started even when it was warmed up. Now it idelssmooth at 1200 rpms. I would like to lower the idle somethough.The Xieds are one of the best things I have done to the bike. It feels more like the fire breathing Hog it was meant to be.