Heywood:

If your installing the LC1's WBO2's you follow the O2 wire back from the sensor about 8 to 10 inches and you will come to the connection joint. The joint is to make it possible to remove the O2 sensor without wrecking the wires. If your installing the LC1 or the IED you disconnect the connection.

The IED simply goes in between. You plug the male IED end into the female O2 end and at the other end you connect the wire going to the ECU the same way. IED installation is done.

If your installing the LC1 you diconnect the wire and remove the Narrow band stock O2 sensor. Now you can install the new LC1 Wide Band sensor in the exhaust. Steve provides an extra wire that has the proper connector to attach it to the O2 wire that runs to the ECU. The wires coming out of the LC1 go underneath the frame and click into the LC1 connector.

Normally if you disconnect an O2 sensor your AFR defaults to like 12.5 . However the O2 eliminator that comes with the PCIII works a little differently. I don't know what the AFR would do with the connector on but no PCIII.

 

KnownMan that is an excellent idea on how to check the accuracy of your unit.

 

I've been following this subject since the beginning and I'm pretty convinced IEDs are the way to go. I just bought my first Harley (08 Electraglide Classic) and will hopefully be picking it up in a couple of weeks. (I'm in Massachusetts, so it's still crummy weather) I know a couple of friends with Ultras that complain about the heat and I was pretty concerned until I started reading this thread. Thanks for all the great info. As a new HD owner, is there anything else I should consider? I have to say, I'm a little worried about tinkering too much with a brand new toy that i just sank 19 large into. For short money, it looks like I can decrease the heat problem and install them right off the bat and get better performance too. Thanks again for all the information and I'll be keeping a close eye on the proceedings here (until the weather breaks anyway) Joe

 

Thanks Cruiser...So I am looking at it the right way... It's just the IED's...I was just wondering what Gundog was saying. When I read it, it sounded like he was talking about the LC1's.

The video was a great help..Even though I'm not putting in the LC1's, it showed me the part I needed.

MotorMedic..
Congrates on you first HD and welcome to the form. Your going to love it..There's a million things you can do. These forms are a great place to learn from the mistakes of others and to find things that appeal to you. Tryyour scooterout for a bit... you might be as happy with it stock. Wealth of information here and the other sites. Some good...some negative....You're your own best filter on things you'll read. Some have a difference of opinion...but that's what it is...an opinion.

You've got the smiley thing down so that's a good start. A lot of people take things that are written the wrong way because they can't tell how the person on the other end is joking or serious.

Good place to start is the touring section..Introduce yourself and explain what you have planned for you bike. You could even take your post from above and put it there. Lots of traffic there and in the general section.

 

Heywood

I'm talking about the O2 IEDs. The front O2 sensor connector plugs into a connector that goes to the ECM and is hidden neatly behind a plastic cover on top of the voltage regulator. When you put the O2 IED in line, you now have two connectors out side the cover with no place to hide.

 

Gundog I know what your saying. My former Wide Glide was the same way. The wire ran behind that plastic thing above the rectifier and the couplings were hidden in there. Some how your going to have to get creative. Maybe use the plastic tubing that car dealers use around electrical connections.

One thing I did was to bend the wire of the IED to come back around. You can bend the wire just above the plugs that is uncovered without hurting anything. This way you come across the plastic thing and bend the wire to come back the other way. Then fold the original wire to meet it and hopefully it will all fit behind the plastic cover.

If your not sure what I'm talking about, better not to bend anything. But Steve says don't bend the middle where it is shrink wrapped. For under there is the electronics. Bending the exposed wire between the coupling and the shrink wrap is just wire and can be bent with no serious problems.

 

I just installed a set of these on my 2008 SG. Took about 5 minutes - including the beer. Bike fired right up , sounds great, settled into an idle
Can't ride - 15 degrees and snow covered roads outside
Let you all know how my incredibly accurate butt dyno reads out after I've ridden the thing around a little. Sitting in the garage it felt like 3.5 additional HP and 5.1 ft/lbs torque at 3550 RPM. Like I said - my butt is the benchmark that most matters to me!!

 

Smokin:

Thanks, thats the best laugh I have had all day. Great Post.

 

Cruiser85257: At your suggestion, I removed the Screamin' Eagle A/C and installed the stock A/C. With the IED's still installed I rode the same route as the previous two tests.

My seat-of-the-pantsimpression is that the bike runs OK with the stock A/C and the street legal SE slip-ons, but it is not as responsive as it was with the SEA/C. It accelerates OK, but not quite as strong as with the SE A/C. Part of my impression may be that I no longer can hear the intake sucking with the stock A/Clike I did with the SE A/C.

Anyway, so that people do not have to go back to my previous post, I am posting the temperature results for all three tests below. All the tests were performed on my 2007 Road King Classic without the windshield installed. I rodethe same13 mile loop each time. I tried my best to ride the same on each test, but there were some variations due to traffic conditions. The ambient temperatures were within 2 degrees F for all the runs (76-78) degrees.

Test 1 is with the SE A/C, SE slip-ons and without the IED's
Test 2 is with the SE A/C, SE slip-ons and with the IED's
Test 3 is with the stock A/C and with the IED's

A.Stopping after a 55mph ride with occasional brisk acceleration-
Test 1Front Cyl 310-315 degrees, Rear Cyl 330-337 degrees
Test 2 285-290310-322
Test 3257-265 285-293

B. Stopping at a traffic light, riding one more block and checking temps-
Test 1Front Cyl 325-330 degrees, Rear Cyl 345-355
Test 2 298-310320-328
Test 3 280-287 300-308

C. Stopping at the security gate in my community, riding 1/2 mile home at 25-30mph
Test 1Front Cyl 350-355 degrees, Rear Cyl 380-385 degrees
Test 2 330-340 355-365
Test 3 305-315330-338

My conclusion is, that without any question whatsoever, installing the Nightrider IED's helped my engine run cooler. It alsoconfirms that the addition of a freer flowing air cleaner makes a bike run hotter. It isunderstood that hotter running is mainly the result of a leaner mixture.

For the time being, I am going to leave my stock air cleaner on. However,I am going to do some further investigation before I decide whether to put back the SE A/C.

It is my understanding that the O2 sensors onlyimpact the ECM at thrott

 

Mr. Clean:

Outstanding test results, and very nicely compiled.

I think if you go back through the thread you'll find a great explaination of the stage one download by Franks. According to what he says it will bring the afr down by altering the volume. So your basically correct in your assumption.

I just acquired a SERT off of Ebay. Won't have it till next week. But I will start messing with that and the O2 IED to see what improvements I can gain. This is where I am going to need all the help I can get with the Race Tuner. It's an older model, but I got the latest software here V477. I guess the first step will be to decide on a basemap. With the K&N RK3909 air kit, and Rusj Mufflers with 2 inch exhaust. I'm looking at Map 78 or 100. recomendations are most welcome.