http://www.daytona-sensors.com/index.html

Here is a link to some interesting reading. I have talked to several on this subject. They offer the WEGO 2 system that will tell you your A/f ratio while driving. It even has a recorder that will display maps same as SERT so you can build your own maps based on your real world conditions. I have been trying to stay away from the dyno thing as I like to tinker and make changes at will. I don't want to be headed to the dyno all the time. If I was planing to make changes only one time I would just do the dyno route.

I have been told that the A/R is about the only thing that needs to be changed and not to mess with the timing settings. Also the O2 sensor is more reliable for individual cyl that a sniffer in the tail pipe.

I do not have first hand knowledge of these things but wanted to share things from my own research the last few months.

 

http://www.daytona-twintec.com/index.html

another link here. I thought I was losing my mind. Anyway, you can also get a whole new ECM that will work with the WEGO 2. You must build your own MAPS to get the ECM close then the ECM will use feedback from the WEGO 2 to make minor changes for say enviromental changes such as temp and alt changes. Lots of reading on this web site, I just tried to sum up a few facts.

 

I done a bit of research on this recently. I'm trying to decide for the sake of future modifications whether to go with the SERT, PCIII, or some system akin to the Daytona Twin Tec.

I've done some detailed reading on the Daytona Twin Tec, and I think I may be able to help answer the question about tuning with a true dual system. At least with regards to how it's done with the Daytona.

Basically, you install a bung in each exhaust pipe for the WEGO 2 sensor. With a plug installed in the bung for the front sensor and the wide band sensor installed in the rear pipe, you drive the bike changing load as much as possible to let the auto tune feature build a set of maps for you. You may have to go into the maps and fill in some load cells that are missed just to smooth the maps out. Then you remove the sensor from the rear pipe and install it in the front pipe (plug now in the rear bung). In the computer, you force the ECU into open loop so that it doesn't look at the feedback from the O2 sensor. Then, you drive the bike and data log the information from the O2 sensor and save it to a file. Daytona recommends about five different runs saved as five different files. Then the software can be told to access those files to automatically adjust the trim for the front cylinder. Once you get the trim for the front cylinder adjusted, you can move the sensor back to the rear pipe bung, reactive closed loop operation, and you're set.

My big question is I don't know how extensive you have to get with modifications to warrant going from the speed-density control of the stock ECU to an alpha-N based ECU like the Daytona TT. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

Well here's how I got into this situation.
Let me start of by saying I have purchased the Terry TVII system. Mostly because I'm cheep and it was the way to go for me.
I have not installed it yet because it's still on the way.
I have an extra set of Supertrapps by Kerker so I thought I would slip them on after I put on the Fulsac true dual modification. I rode to Oceanside and back and notices some pinging when I got on the throttle. Not pinging all the time just when I pushed it.
So I took the Kerkers off ad went back to the HD Touring mufflers (no PING). I guess the Kerkers didn't have enough back pressure.
I'm thinking installing the Terry will compensate for the lean A/F ratio problem and I should be able to run any and all types of slip-ons and it should adjust, well see..... Now I'm thinking of throwing some Wild Pigs on just to **** my wife off (she doesn't like loud pipes) Just kidding (about the wife) Love her dearly, at least once a week. I looked into all the other closed loop systems but just couldn't justify the $990+ for the S&S or the DTT at this point in time.
I'm going to install the bung about 8" from the rear exhaust port just passed the flange bell on the left side, it should clear the primary caseing pointng down at about a 45 deg. angle.
2000 Ultra 95"
Stage 2 download.

 

One of the big difference between the TC TVII and the Daytona TT is convenience. The TVII is a piggy-back system similar to the PCIII. The only difference is that the TVII provides for closed loop operation whereas the PCIII does not. However, it does require a lot of splicing into the existing wiring harness to get it to work. But, the major difference between the TVII and the Daytona Twin Tec is that the TVII does not handle ignition timing. The ignition timing must be done through the stock ECU using the SERT software.

Since the Daytona TT is only $100 more than the TVII ($625 compared to $520), if you have to do ignition timing through the stock ECU using the SERT software, the combination of TVII and SERT software would actually end up costing you more than the Daytona TT by itself (about $900 for the TVII and SERT compared to $625 for the Daytona TT with WEGO).

Now, if all you're worried about is getting the A/F ratios right to keep from scattering your engine, you may not need to adjust your ignition timing. However, if you're tuning to achieve the maximum possible performance, ignition timing is just as important as fuel control.

 

The Terry Components Terminal Velocity is currently on sale at WWW.directparts.com until Feb. 28, which is tomorrow, for $399.99 and includes shipping. I just ordered one, thought I couldn't pass it up at that price.

 

This technology has been available for a while. HD should have built thier EFI systems like this. Wouldn't it be great to be able to modify your bike however you wanted and have the EFI system automatically tune the bike?

 

Let us know when you have it working.

 

a question for those of you who have installed the TV II. How difficult is the wiring hook-up and running the wires under the tank?

 

I'm in the middle of my 98' build, Terry components donated a TV unit to HDWRENCH and he is passing it on to me, once installed I'll hit the dyno for a print out and it will be posted here. If the numbers aren't real good I will probably do a Stage II or III download.