I have been on this forum for a little over a year. I don't post much, but I have learned a ton of information. I had the bike dynoed while I was at the Lonestar Rallyand it definately runs better.The question I had was about the numbers. The results showed 73 hp & 75 torque. I would have thoughtfrom what I have seen on here, that the torque numbers would be a little higher. Just wondering from some of you guys thatare a lot more into tuning than I amif this sounded about right for my setup? 06 Street Glide
25 degree injectors
PC 111
Wild Pig Pipes with 1 3/4" baffles.
SE stage 1 AC with K&N filter
Iridiium Plugs
Bike runs good, no popping on decel and no hesitation or stalling on take off. Haven't had a lot of opportunity to check milege. The full tank I have checked was mostly two up riding and was both highway & back roads. Mileage was at 38.
It was at 34 with the Fuel Moto map I had from Jamie & it was 40-42 when it was all stock. It was dynoed by Cycle Solutions if anyone knows anything about these guys. Thanks in advance for your opinions.

 

Just brought mine home yesterday from having the stage one and dyno done. Before: max HP 89.24, max Torque 102.2. After: max HP 95.24, max Torque 110.6. This is a 110 ci engine. I used the stock Harley fuel program #74 then the guy operating the dyno tweeked it a little. The before hp and torque curves had a slow start as you throttle up and had a few rough spots as rpm increased. The final reading shows a much smooth response and much smoother curve throughout the rpm increase. Looking at this I would think you should have had a little higher torque curve. However I am not a dyno expert.

 

Thats what I was wondering about. The HP seems about right from what I have seen on the forum. Just thought the torque look a little low. Oh well, I guess thats one of the downfalls of having it tuned during a rally, you don't really get that extra tweaking you need. When the local guy gets his dyno in, I will take it in to him for fine tuning. In the meantime I'ii just ride and have piece of mind that the AFR is ok & no harm is being done.

 

The way I now understand it is that with the race tuner kit you can access 260 program parimeters per cylinder. If your dyno operator has the training to use it and has the experiance to go with it he can produce a very smooth running machine. I traveled 285 miles one way to find a shop and operator that could do it correctly. It took him about 2.5 hours but he knew from experiance what to look for. One cool thing about the HD race tuner is you can record your bikes performance and view it on your lap-top later. Then go back and tweak the right parimeters. Again it takes a very good man to do this. I had only broken my bike in when I had this done. I can hardly wait until next warm dry day to try it out. I went with the Vance Hines Big Shot Staggered with the quiet baffles (don't be fooled by the name quiet) and a high flow AC. The Screaming Eagle race tuner cost around $450.00. Once you've used it on your bike it programs the ID number in and can only be used on that bike. The dyno cost $194.00 with the tax. All total pipes, AC, tuner and labor it cost about $1250.00. Seems like a lot for a few HP however it's not much when you consider the bike was $27500.00. The effeceancy of the bike shows to be much better and should be worth it over time. It realy comes down to what makes you smile while riding. Grasshoppers sting at 80+

 

75.7hp/ 89.5lbs
2007 Dyna FXDBI
Rinehart staggered exhaust
S.E. backplate w/ Zipper's air filter element
S.E.R.T.

 

The dyno results can vary for many reasons. One of many examples is, if the dyno operator used "STD" for atmospheric correction and a "minimum" smoothness factor, their numbers could be more then 10% higher then useingtodays more accepted and accurate"SAE" atmospheric correction and a"maximum" smoothness factor. Some operators do not use any atmospheric correction which makes apples to apples comparisons even more difficult.

 

Looking at run sheet itshows:
Run Type: RO Run Conditions: 81.06 degree F, 30.37 in-Hg, Humidity: 59%, SAE: 0.98

 

Good to see thatyour informeddyno operator is usingSAE correction. There should also be the word "Smoothing" at the top of the dyno sheetfollowed by a number from 1-5 if using a Dynojet dyno. For the most accurate results a4-5 is used. Any lessor number provides unrealistic higher HP/TQ numbers.

My obvious point here is that so often I see peoplepost HP/TQ numbers using STD correctionand a low smoothing number which causes many, possiblylike you,to wrongly wonder why their mods are not producing dynonumbers that are not comparable to some othersfor the reasons that I posted here.

 

My 2 cents is the dino posts have got out of hand there is way to much fudging. It used to be fun to read the dino post but the bs was killing me.

 

The smoothing number is a 5. I'mnot soworried about the numbers, but like I said, all this is pretty new to me and from reading different post I was seeing numbers all over the place like you said.