Guys, this HD Forum has kept me sane over the last year in Iraq - thanks!
Found the following link burried on this site- Pure SERT gold!
http://www.w4jf.com/s_e_r_t_.htm

Still in Iraq, but ~1 monthaway fromreturning to my new 2007 Deluxe that I purchased on R&R. Bought some Python Staggered pipes (Same as V&H BSS) and a Ness Big Sucker air cleaner. Otherwise stock sofar.

Question is: Which canned SERT map should I use to get started? # 67 for Shotgun/Shorty dual pipes, or #78 for touring exhaust?

Understand maxing out the CLB tables will help with the heat. Opentoany other tuning tips or Cab Files for my configuration?

Truly appreciate the support from the Forum members!
Thanks, Craze

 

Use map #67.... The Touring map is for the Touring bikes, and their Spark tables aren't as aggressive, and their CLB is a bit broader and deeper.....

Just a sugg, don't use the "J" version software, it's old news now....

"L" is the newest one, and the maps have been reworked a bit for better bottom end ans well as off-idle response.....

 

Thanks S-Bob!
Zactly why I love this Forum!
Craze

 

Shovelhead Bob,

Not meaning to hyjack this thread, I've got 07 Ultra, with SE air cleaner and stock exhaust. I'm looking at richening up the fuel to also reduce the heat. I just received the "L" cd with my SERT.
I'm planning on using the #78 map and bumping up the CLB table to 798 in all cells. Will this address the lean stock condtion? Would you recommend doing anything else, short of a dyno tune?

 

That is EXACTLY what you need to do....

You will be doing 2 tables (Front and Rear)..... Don't ask me why they designed it that way with the newest software.....

What you are doing is bringing the "Desired" AFR down to 14:1 in the Closed Loop portion of the map..... This will NOT AFFECT the hot idle condition that people will sometimes complain about.... That is done by adjusting the VE's at the 0% throttle position.....

The rest of the "Desired" AFR's need to remain untouched... 12.5:1 at WOT is plenty fat enough to get the motor spooled up, and really, how often are you going to be at WOT for any length of time?????

 

Shovelhead Bob,

You say that to take away the hot idle condition, you need to adjust the VE's at 0% throttle position.
In the #78 map, I see that the front cylinder VE runs at 79.0 up to 84.0 at 0 position 500rpm to 6500rpm and the back cylinder is at 82.0 to 91.0. Knowing that idle rpm is somewhere inthe 750 to 1500 rpm range, is this the area you would adjust the VE's at? And if so, would amount of increase would you suggest?
I guess I don't have a feel for how much an increment will effect the fuel.
Also, if we are just talking of reducing heat at idle,I would think there wouldn't be a need to change spark advance in this condition either, is this true?

 

This place is great I'm learning all kinds of crap. I bumped the CLB table to 798 in all cells. But i didn't know there was a front an rear table [:@] Now I'm gonna have to do some changes an reprogram. I also used map #78. I programed the ECM sunday night an went for a ride monday, bike seemed to pull a little harder but I'm still getting some knocking at WOT. Sorry to highjack.............................[:-]

 

Do you have a suggestion on how many "units" the VE tables should be increased? Thanks.

 

That variable is determined by an AFR meter, under load on a Dynomometer, or via a DTT Twinscan II+ WEGO....

There is NO DEFINITIVE number of units that are increased/decreased without using these tools to get an ACCURATE read on what the motor is producing.....