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2011 Fatbob - No spark on front cylinder

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  #1  
Old 08-21-2024, 03:49 PM
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Default 2011 Fatbob - No spark on front cylinder

Hi all,
This is my first time posting a thread here. It seems like a great platform to help me in my hunt for a fix, so thank you to the people that take the time to read and comment.

Ive recently purchased a 2011 fatbob with a 110 cube upgrade on it.
It was a project and is very rough and not looked after.

it wouldn’t run upon inspection as seller told me the fuel pump wasn’t working.
This was correct, so I put a new fuel pump, regulator and filter in the tank.

Now I can start it but the problem is that when start it it fires up as normal but after about 3 seconds it drops the front cylinder and runs on the rear only.
Then proceeds to flip flop between running on 2 cylinders for a second or two every now and then to running mostly on the rear cylinder only.

I have checked the plugs, leads and coil. If I pull the front lead off the coil while engine is idling there is no change to the way it runs. If I pull the rear one off then the bike stops.

I’ve used an in-line spark tester. On the rear cylinder the light flashes nice and bright, but in the front cylinder it is flashing but it’s really weak.

I pulled code P1352 front ignition coil driver high/shorted.

It seems to me the coil is being told to stop spark for some reason.
This is where I’m a bit stuck.
I’m handy with a multi meter, but don’t have any of Harley testing equipment.

Has anyone seen this before?
 
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Old 08-21-2024, 03:50 PM
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Spark plug on front cylinder is wet.
 
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Old 08-21-2024, 03:53 PM
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Old 08-21-2024, 03:54 PM
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I have run test 1 with multimeter and I got 1.5v for that but can’t find a short in the wire. I have even run a loop wire from ecu to the coil with no change.
What is odd though is that I ran the same test for the rear cylinder and I get 5v.
 
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Old 08-22-2024, 05:24 AM
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Compression on front cylinder is 190psi and rear is 185psi, so I think I can rule out a compression problem.
I’ve tried a different (known working) coil and no change.
 
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Old 08-22-2024, 05:49 AM
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Look at this guy go...talking his way through his issue all by himself lol...can't believe nobody has commented to help the poor guy out.
You said it has a 110 kit on it..
any idea if it's been tuned and with what? Could be an issue with the tune. If you or a friend has a power vision you could see what tune is in it. You won't be able to make any changes unless the p.o. brought a license for it but he doesn't sound like the type that gave a **** about his motorcycle. That's all I got...
 
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Old 08-22-2024, 02:15 PM
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Did you try swapping front ignition coil with the rear?
 
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Old 08-22-2024, 03:32 PM
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Thanks for your response Screamin Beagle.
I figured that I might as well keep updating the thread as I went. One thing that I put on there might make sense to someone and then the cogs might start turning.

I don’t know what tune it’s got in it, but what I can say is that I don’t reckon the bloke I got it from did any of the mods to it in his time.
this was at one point a very nice bike with a lot of money spent on it.
He had it for about 5 years and said the only thing he changed was the bars.

 
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Old 08-22-2024, 03:37 PM
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Dynoking, I have tried that.
the rear that normally runs won’t run and the front cylinder will crank, crank, crank then bang. It ignites and throws a blue flame out the pipe. It doesn’t run though.

What should it do if leads are reversed?
 

Last edited by Haydo4; 08-22-2024 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 08-22-2024, 08:54 PM
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may be a burned ecm. Check the voltage going to the coil and make sure there is continuity from the coil to the ecm
 


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