2011 Fatbob - No spark on front cylinder
#32
[QUOTE=paulmedford;21791749]So, just to clarify as I’m still trying to understand.
the ecm seems to have shorted to 12v positive putting constant power to the blue with orange wire stopping the coil from firing spark from the coil to the front cylinder?
Previously when I tested the spark with a spark tester I found that the front had a light that flashed but it was very dull.
Does this test match up with what is being found testing the blue with orange wire at the coil with the test light?
the ecm seems to have shorted to 12v positive putting constant power to the blue with orange wire stopping the coil from firing spark from the coil to the front cylinder?
Previously when I tested the spark with a spark tester I found that the front had a light that flashed but it was very dull.
Does this test match up with what is being found testing the blue with orange wire at the coil with the test light?
#33
[QUOTE=Haydo4;21791823]
So, just to clarify as I’m still trying to understand.
the ecm seems to have shorted to 12v positive putting constant power to the blue with orange wire stopping the coil from firing spark from the coil to the front cylinder?
Previously when I tested the spark with a spark tester I found that the front had a light that flashed but it was very dull.
Does this test match up with what is being found testing the blue with orange wire at the coil with the test light?
The ECM more than likely does not drive the line high. It simply fails to drive the line low. With the ignition on and plug remove, plugging a test light into the socket going to the ecm will show no light.. Testing the other line will show the same thing.
So, just to clarify as I’m still trying to understand.
the ecm seems to have shorted to 12v positive putting constant power to the blue with orange wire stopping the coil from firing spark from the coil to the front cylinder?
Previously when I tested the spark with a spark tester I found that the front had a light that flashed but it was very dull.
Does this test match up with what is being found testing the blue with orange wire at the coil with the test light?
The ECM more than likely does not drive the line high. It simply fails to drive the line low. With the ignition on and plug remove, plugging a test light into the socket going to the ecm will show no light.. Testing the other line will show the same thing.
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paulmedford (08-27-2024)
#34
[QUOTE=Haydo4;21791823]
So, just to clarify as I’m still trying to understand.
the ecm seems to have shorted to 12v positive putting constant power to the blue with orange wire stopping the coil from firing spark from the coil to the front cylinder?
Previously when I tested the spark with a spark tester I found that the front had a light that flashed but it was very dull.
Does this test match up with what is being found testing the blue with orange wire at the coil with the test light?
12v is supposed to be on the blue/orange wire, once the relay is on ( when the bike primes then when it cranks over), The ecm then grounds the 12V intermittently to fire the coil
So, just to clarify as I’m still trying to understand.
the ecm seems to have shorted to 12v positive putting constant power to the blue with orange wire stopping the coil from firing spark from the coil to the front cylinder?
Previously when I tested the spark with a spark tester I found that the front had a light that flashed but it was very dull.
Does this test match up with what is being found testing the blue with orange wire at the coil with the test light?
Last edited by paulmedford; 08-27-2024 at 08:59 AM.
#35
[QUOTE=paulmedford;21791961]
Got ya. The blue/orange wire isn’t grounding intermittently.
Is there a way/something that I could do that can mimic some grounding intermittently to see if that front cylinder fires?
I know the timing wouldn’t be correct if there was something I could do.
Is there a way/something that I could do that can mimic some grounding intermittently to see if that front cylinder fires?
I know the timing wouldn’t be correct if there was something I could do.
Last edited by Haydo4; 08-27-2024 at 03:40 PM.
#36
[QUOTE=Haydo4;21792319]you can test the coil by taking the blue and orange]ge wire and tapping it to ground and it should spark, but you would have to either splice in a wire or remove it from the ecm jack.
#37
[QUOTE=paulmedford;21792396]
It still needs to be powered though doesn’t it?
id just be splicing in a wire to tap on an earth to make it fire.
I can’t just remove the wire from the ecm plug and tap that on an earth?
id just be splicing in a wire to tap on an earth to make it fire.
I can’t just remove the wire from the ecm plug and tap that on an earth?
#38
[QUOTE=Haydo4;21792466]yes remove it from the ecm plug and tap it while cranking, and you should see the plug fire
#39
#40
[QUOTE=paulmedford;21792471]
Paul, I’m really scratching my head now!!
I spliced in a wire to the blue/orange wire and can see while using a spark tester that by tapping that wire to earth while ignition is on/fuel pump priming and while cranking that there is a flash on the tester. The only problem is that it’s still only a really weak flash and it doesn’t ignite the front cylinder.
I have put a different coil (of another running bike) on and it does the same.
Weak spark front cylinder, strong spark rear cylinder.
I spliced in a wire to the blue/orange wire and can see while using a spark tester that by tapping that wire to earth while ignition is on/fuel pump priming and while cranking that there is a flash on the tester. The only problem is that it’s still only a really weak flash and it doesn’t ignite the front cylinder.
I have put a different coil (of another running bike) on and it does the same.
Weak spark front cylinder, strong spark rear cylinder.