So to confirm..
Only you personally have worked on the bike since the incident.
The bike worked fine before the incident.

Presently:
Everything appears to work.
Idle is clean and responds to throttle.
I will guess that charging system has been checked for voltage via battery posts at rest, during cranking and high idle.

During a ride of unknown inclination and unknown fuel in fuel tank it experienced a little hesitation but you downshifted and turn onto a parallel street and headed back home.
Then it hesitated and surged and got some pops out of the induction unit at the air cleaner.

Kinda /sorta like the symptoms from a bad engine head temperature sensor (flip/flop) from hot to cold
or
A diminished fuel issue from a blocked fuel inlet filter after a piece of tank liner floats towards filter sock and blocks fuel but then later floats off and repeats.

 

More than a little hesitation - it surged and bogged down - wouldn't keep a steady throttle in a static position - I throttled up to try to power through it to get the bike back home and it started bucking and spitting out the intake - if I pulled the clutch and eased up on the throttle down to idle speeds it would settle down - it also was very hot when I got back to the house - so it may be that the heat sensor is doing its think like it should and the heat is due to a lean condition being cased by <insert reason here> - that's what I want to fix - I think something is causing the engine to lean out but not sure what - last time I lost the temp sensor it threw a code - there are no codes - I would think if it's getting an erratic reading it would throw a code - no? Temp sensor is a $100 part and not the easiest to find for this bike took me a little time to find one last time around - and you have to lift the tank which is always fun - I was hoping to have more certainty in replacing what could be a good part before I started random swaps.

 

Hi Ed,
I have read your posts in other threads. I am looking for an ecm for my 99 flhtci. P/N 32423-99 do you happen to have one? And possibly the rain boot for it? I tried to pm you but it wouldn't let me.

 

The engine head temp sensor changes resistance depending on temperature.
The symptoms you describe seem related to temp sensor gone bad.
Perhaps another forum member will report or you can search threads.
Most report a wild flip/flop of throttle.. A huge uncontrolled swing from high to low.

Replacements of parts should not be made without testing a part.
Keep in mind that even new parts can be defective and should be tested especially if they are in a difficult to install location..

Your temp sensor can be tested with a digital voltage meter...some ice and some hot water against chart in service book.
It will require removal of sensor to test.
Sensor will not always throw a code. Especially if there is no break of wire and no total of of resistance(open circuit).

There are a few posts of substituting the newer shorter (1999) sensor with a 2 inch extender on threaded end.
I have not installed a shorter sensor ( believe it is part 32446-99) but have confirmed that resistance matches on both (compared shorter sensor to manual), thread and pitch on both are reported as 12Mx1.25 and it looks like electrical connection is the same based on online wiring review.
If needed the newer shorter sensor can be purchased online for under $20 US dollars but you still need to make or acquire an extender of about 2 inches long...... 12Mx1.25 and about 2 inches long for spacer part.
Perhaps a vehicle stick shifter extender or even a 12M x1.25 2.5 inch long bolt (You lose about 0.5 inches when threaded to head).
That would leave about 2 inches of thread exposed and then weld a 12Mx1.25 nut to head of bolt.
Thread sensor to created extender on bench and install.
Later in the future upon removal it will probably come out in two parts when unthreaded from motorcycle...sensor first and then extender.

You would be the perfect tester if you are going to remove it anyways.

 

UPDATE: ok saw some advice about the twist lock on the CKP so I disconnected the twist lock and then put it back together and made sure it was aligned correctly and well connected - rode around the block and all appeared functional. brought it back to the house put the side cover and left bag back on and was setting out for a longer test ride and the condition resurfaced - hesitation, misfire, surging etc... so I limped it back home and said to myself "run a diag again" - so I put it in diag mode and low and behold I pulled a code - I got slow flashes!!!! I got 5 and then 6 - so looked up in the table 56 = crank, cam position sensor - now to troubleshoot - can't do any of the breakout box tests so I assume it's swapping out the sensors . Never touched the cam position sensor so I might drill the rivets and look there first...

 

Please go back and reread all posts.
Perhaps you are using a phone instead of a real computer.
A real computer might let you see things more clearly.

Review responses in detail.

Code #56 was mentioned is second response.
Any bad start will give a code #56.
It does not mean that sensor is bad and it does not mean that something else in wrong.
Again, code #56 is ANY bad start.

You have plenty of information to review, test, isolate problem and to resolve.

 

According to the Fuel Injection troubleshooting section of my manual for my model EFI in the table of the 15 possible codes my ECM can throw - code 56 = "Crank Position Sensor/Cam Position Sensor Signal Error" and it refers me to page 9-71 which is titled "Trouble Code 56, Crank Position Sensor and Cam Position Sensor Timing" - it's not starting poorly - it's starting fine - and I'm using a computer not a phone thanks for the advice...It hasn't been throwing any codes until now - I've read the thread thoroughly and as most of it is sound advice, most of it doesn't have much to do with my problem.

 

Probably because you are a new member and PMs are not allowed with one post. I am easily found on LinkedIn. Yes I have an ECM. The only other person on earth who may have a NOS ecm is @Steve Cole

 

Any cranking event with a low battery will throw the cam/crank sync code. All it needs to do is stall a little while cranking and it will pop the code. If you are inspecting the cam sensor, look for any tan/brown goo dripping - that's an instant fail. If I remember correctly the connector for the EVO cam sensors was a weak point at times.

 

I believe an independant shop with a Centurian should be able to read it. I won't lend out my scanalyzer, but if you want to ship the ECMs, I will read the cal ids.