But the internet said so, and a friend of a friend said so. So it has to be true. For those that do not know Ed work at the factory all through the years of the Marrelli EFI bikes and I believe still has one today, although its been modified a little.

 

 

So with everything there are always caveats. 1995 and 1996 MM ECMs were not flashable. These were easily identified ast they were very thick. To be able to load a tune you had to purchase the 1997 and later ECM. 1997 on the ECMs were all flashable from the factory.

 

1) was the engine light on when you first fired it up and let it idle?
2) What year bike was the used ecm taken from
3) A flash shouldn't go back to "default" from sitting with no power
4) You should really try and see the. calibration ID/Level, as suggested before, before continuing along the lines of a bad sensor
5) heat and pops usually are a lean condition rather than rich, which points to a different tune on the ecm or a fuel pressure issue.

 

I never took this position at all - the firend is someone I trust and yes I do my own research including trying to pick the brains of folks here - I don't need a hand slap nor does Ed need an attaboy - I'm not arguing with him - I respect his advice...

 

so aside from finding a scannalyzer and buying it... my stealership doesnt work on anything this old and my local indy whom I think the world of would rather do carb conversions on MM's since he doesn't think working on them is worth his shop time (probablly right) so he doesn't have one either... anyone want to rent or loan me one?!?!?

 

So let me clarify - the bike was running like a dream - had it just right and then I ran the battery down and jumped it and whether there was a short or the lithium jump pack i used sent a surge or the battery was so depleted that it surged out and fried the capacitors across the bike - I don't know - although I'd love to know root cause my main concern is trying to restore the bike to performance.

The bike's set-up hasn't really changed in 5 years and all sensors replaced were done so according to instructions either with the part or YouTube or other advice. I've changed the cam and crank position sensors, as well as the temp sensor, I've tuned the CPS. I rebuilt he induction module and cleaned and serviced the injectors new orings all around - i replaced the fuel lines with Goodrich. It's got stock pipes and the stage 1 kit is really just air. The previous owner said he modified stock slip-ons but other than that the pipes are stock. I can snake a camera into the tank to check but I'm pretty certain that this isn't a fouled liner. None of this work was done recently - the most recent was the induction rebuild about a year ago.

But all that said - the bike ran great until i killed it by frying all these components...

I have no idea what the ECM came out of other than the part numbers match and the seller stated the bike was running strong when he converted to carb and it was completely stock - he has another that he's going to send to me to give me another reference point in case it is the way its mapped.

 

It's not an at-a-boy but a simple fact, that I believe most did not know and should. When it comes to the MM bikes Ed spent plenty of time picking peoples brains about them back at the factory and building his own in several various forms over the years. You might say he was on the bleeding edge for all the good and bad at the factory during the MM years of the bikes. There are very few people who know the MM bikes as well as he does.

 

It appears that you have received a significant amount of information.
Consider going back and reviewing. Actually review the items for function.
Just because they were addressed over a year ago means nothing.

- How did you confirm the original ECM was non-functional?
-Unusual that a lithium jump pack would fry electronics unless it was jumped repeatedly numerous times and with a compromised battery/charging system on the motorcycle.
-How did you run the battery down? * Are the battery, stator and regulator OK at this time?
How did you test them?
-Did you personally do all work on this bike or was it someone else?
-The tank has a large access panel on the top..No snake camera required...Did you install that fuel pump or somebody else?...Consider review again for loose tank liner. How much fuel is in the tank at this time?
-What fuel pump was used?
-Did you confirm operation of each sensor before replacement or was it just a parts change without functional confirmation?
-Did you confirm operation of new sensors? Changing parts without confirmation can introduce variables.
-As asked before, Is the CAM sensor factory stock? Was the CAM sensor installed in the one factory non-adjustable position?
- Does this bike have the factory CAM?
-Does this bike have solid push rods or did someone install adjustable pushrods? It is not difficult to check.
- The list of items provided earlier is a good start to review on your own with simple tools.
The calibration of ECM would be really nice to know and might be the correct solution but you have added numerous variables and need to confirm functionality of other items too.
If not done then you might just be back again with same unresolved problem.

 

All sensors that were replaced had failed and identify either by inspecting visual damage as in teh case of the wiring to the CPS or by reading fault codes. I have no idea what cam it is or if it's stock - I've had the bike over 10 years and it was in there when I got it. I determined the ECM was shot when I was troubleshooting the problem - fuel pump relay wouldn't charge on ignition and there was no spark. checked and bridged the relays and the fuel pump activated (FP relay bridged then with FP relay installed ECM relay bridged) - determined ECM had a compromised path and was not energizing the right paths. Additionally other components were compromised as stated in a pervious message in this thread. Replacing ECM with another correct the no-start problem - with 2nd ECM fuel pump is pressurized on ignition start swtich, spark is present, starts up and idles.

Bike was run down by leaving it keyed on for a few hours after a ride on a hot day - and yes it was jumped multiple times - however I think the damage happened on the initial jump. After the inital jump the bike started and ran long enough for the fuel pressurization to dissipate and then the engine cut off and I coasted to a parking lot - this was a few minutes of running time. During all the subsequent jumps afterwards to try to restart I was frustrated and not seeing the problem clearly - the fuel system never charged in any subsequent attempt - I don't recall it charging in the first attempt just assumed it did. So whatever cause the problem I believe happened at the first jump.

As for the rest of it - I can chase down mechanical problem sure - but I don't think they would be related to the problem - the bike didnt have a mechanical event - it had an electrical one...