Yesterday I ran an Auto Tune session on the 1200 Custom. Bike runs great except for a occasional quick stumble at a certain small throttle setting when exiting out of a corner for example. The low end of the graph is a bitch to fill in.

Question is, I finalized the Auto Tune session so the learned squares/information was added to the MAP I loaded when I first added the mufflers and air cleaner. IF I were to run another session to attempt to get a few more of the boxes in the graph filled in at low throttle settings, will the new information just be added to the modified MAP, or will all the new information I added to the MAP in yesterday's session be lost, and the MAP will return to the original canned MAP BEFORE yesterday's session?

Appreciate any feedback on this.

 

Been running the FP3 for many years . I believe if you run another auto tune it will be added to what you have already done .
I also think it will add another number to your downloads.
R BEE

 

Correct,
during auto tune, the bike is not running good. When you run auto tune it fills in as you ride. When you finish, it updates the map you are working on. You can always go back to a previous MAP that was wooking good.
Once you have a good MAP, don't continue to run "auto-tune"

 

In an so called "Autotune" session..the fuel tuner is just recording the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) data, ill not get into the sensors n tables etc jus to keep it short. The new intake and exhaust changed the way how air is pumped through the engine. So obviously fueling needs to be corrected to make it run right (also narrow band system has limited compensation)

Getting the corrected VE data by doing couple of Autotune sessions is one thing. When some hiccups like u mentioned happen, u need to look deeper n learn a few things. The hiccup or stumble is due to some lean spots in that particular area of the Map. (*Map = Fuel Map *MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure). You can do a couple of things to fix this.

Data logging/recording
1. With the phone on the handle bar mount, open n connect Fp3 app n goto the sensor data page. We need RPM, MAP, TP(throttle position) and AFR(air fuel ratio). Change page items to the needed.
2. Use the screen record function of ur phone or use a third-party app. Use n practice the phone/app functionality at home not on the road.
3. With the Fp3 app on senson data page and phone on screen recording mode...go for a ride, use and empty road..try n recreate the stumble multiple times.
4. Once home go through the video of the screen recording. Slow down the playback speed at the stumble n pause (sound of backfire through the Manifold 'aka the Hiccup). U now have the exact RPM, TP, MAP, AFR of where its happening.

All this cos V&H doesn't have data log feature for Fp3. Thanks V&H

Now come the IMPORTANT part. Tuning the Map
5. Open the Fp3 app connect to the bike, goto edit Map
6. Option A. Goto front n rear cylinder VE tables, find the stumble spot based on RPM and TP. Increase the cell and adjacent cell values of that area in +5 increments.
Option B. Goto the AFR table, find the stumble area based on RPM and MAP. Richen up the cell and adjacent cells.
*Rich mixture = lower value, Lean mixture = higher value. Stoich=14.6
7. Flash the Map after changes. Ride the bike, see if it worked out. If Yes, have a beer n chillax...if No, then repeat the Map editing steps carefully. U will be flashing the ECU multiple times so again use caution.

It's all about small changes, testing n patience. Although it may seem like a lot, hope I've made it simple enough for u to follow through. Obviously as u know there's a lot more to EFI tuning than what I've mentioned here. Professional expert opinion is always better.(which I'm not)

Plz do one change at a time. Also always a good practice to flash the Autotune Map after the Autotune session. Hope this info helps you to get ur bike running right. Best wishes, safe travels.

 

Can't believe how many FP3 users I have seen running in "auto-tune" all the time, never seen the literature on this device but it can't be good if that many people misunderstand it

Proper way to use is to apply changes and test drive without the "auto-tune" enabled, if you still think there is room for improvement then run another session apply the changes and evaluate again, repeat process until you think your bike is running well, it's not "tuned" but that's another conversation

Only way to calculate VE with stock narrow band sensors is to set the AFR in a range the O2 sensors can read ( around 14.7), also should disable enrichment and enleanment functions which is why your bike runs like crap during "auto-tune"

 

When I went to a stage2 with cams I had a low RPM stumble and pop. Ran auto tune and it really didn't help much. Called V&H, they hooked up to my tuner over the phone and had it worked out in 5 minutes. Great product.

 

I have the V&H 3, When I was ready and hooked it up, before I even started the bike, I called them and the connected to bike and flashed a tune to the ECM. (Before you "experts" jump in and say it is NOT a tune, just stop. I know that. It is a base map upgrade. ). Everything ran great. One day I decided to look at the actual map out of curosity. I wantd to see the fuel maps, AFR, etc. Well, because they are "open" to edit.... I accidently Fuged it up. ended up deleting ALL of the values. Called them up again, tole them what I had done, humbily ofc, and they resent a corrected map.
I know there is a lot of discussion about the V&H vs other after-market bolt on, tuner devices. Yes, the V&H is not dyno friendly since most dyno shops don't have the equipment to connect and tune with the V&H.
However, and I don't know, do the other companies have the direct access to the tuner, via cell phone app, and can provide immediate support. This to me is value of V&H

( ok, here comes the tuner experts...)

 

OH the FP3 is garbage, they are junk, they won't do a proper "tune".
Hmmmmmmmmm, that's strange. If i'm correct the FP3 is the #1 selling tuner of all time. You know who started all this "FP3's are garbage" crap? TUNERS! They hate the FP3 because now you can do "tunes" yourself and you don't need to spend $500 everytime you make a performance change. Imagine that. If I was a "tuner" I would hate them also.

So, they try to convince everybody that they are junk. So after a stage 1 "tune" on my FP3 I saved myself $500 from a trip to a dyno and have them rip my engine to redline like 50 times, punch a few keys on the computer and hand me a bill and a piece of paper that said they gained 2 HP and 3 ft lbs of torque.

Well, you can keep your piece of paper and I'll keep my $500. That is all.
And by the way, FP3's rock!

 

Exactly !
And the same with website that let one build thier own webpage, or coding...the future of DIY is expanding...

 

Also, when I did my stage 2 with cams the FP3 did an excellent job with that as well. Another $500 saved.

But...But... When you go beyond a stage 2 the FP3 wont handle the changes. Don't know don't care. I'm not gonna do a stage 3.